W124 300e Coolant flush/bleed
- Thread starter jonviola
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Ellsy Tanners
Senior Member
You have a orange tap at the bottom of the radiator, that will drain that.
You have a drain tap on the block, that will drain that.
If you like you can fill it back up with just water, run it and re-drain to flush it through.
Then refill with 50% antifreeze and 50% water approx 6 litres.
Run up to full operating temp with the cap on and heater on full, this should bleed any air locks and then recheck level.
You have a drain tap on the block, that will drain that.
If you like you can fill it back up with just water, run it and re-drain to flush it through.
Then refill with 50% antifreeze and 50% water approx 6 litres.
Run up to full operating temp with the cap on and heater on full, this should bleed any air locks and then recheck level.
Xtractorfan
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Or u can buy it ready mixed from most motor factors, so it beats the guesswork..slightly more expensive tho
kth286
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jonviola
Only use Mercedes own coolant additive - it is not just antifreeze.
It will protect your whole system of mixed metals and rubber etc because it is totally Ph- neutral.
I recon that people that have most problems with their cooling and heating systems with
early pump failures sticking thermostats etc etc are those that do not use the proper Merc
product.
BUT it sounds that you MAY have a problem in that area - is it oil in the coolant to turn it brown ??????????
Do you have a head gasket problem ?
Where you based - perhaps an idie can confirm or not you have a problem.
Only use Mercedes own coolant additive - it is not just antifreeze.
It will protect your whole system of mixed metals and rubber etc because it is totally Ph- neutral.
I recon that people that have most problems with their cooling and heating systems with
early pump failures sticking thermostats etc etc are those that do not use the proper Merc
product.
BUT it sounds that you MAY have a problem in that area - is it oil in the coolant to turn it brown ??????????
Do you have a head gasket problem ?
Where you based - perhaps an idie can confirm or not you have a problem.
Last edited:
Tashman
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I would guess its just a build-up of rust and slug type stuff from missed coolant changes.
A good flush and new coolant should sort it.
It might be worth 'reverse flushing' the radiator with a hosepipe before you put the new coolant in so that doesn't turn brown within a week.
A good flush and new coolant should sort it.
It might be worth 'reverse flushing' the radiator with a hosepipe before you put the new coolant in so that doesn't turn brown within a week.
wireman
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You may have a slight cylinder head gasket problem, exhaust gas turns the antifreeze into a solid or paste that looks like rust in the coolant.
Flush the system and add new antifreeze of your choice, most are suitable for mixed metal engines, MB stuff may be the best but most of the reputable makers claim that theirs is suitable, for the UK use about 40% antifreeze to 60% clean tap water mix.
Do not use more than 50% antifreeze, the soloution at this stregnth or greater has a much lower thermal capacity and localised overheating may occur if the unit is continuosly worked hard in very hot weather.
If the new coolant gets any orange tint after some weeks I would reccomend that the head gasket is investigated, if it doesn't then you are in the clear.
The brown sludge will settle in both the radiator and heater matrix tending to block up their water tubes as it does, the stuff will set hard if left for extended periods and destroy the matrix or radiator. It has little effect on parts that move but if its severe the stat and any valves in the heater circuit can get dodgy in operation, it has to be quite severe to cause these parts to give trouble.
It is almost immpossible to flush the stuff out of the radiator/matrix cores because you simply cannot get enough flushing water to flow through the partialy blocked tubes, a chemical method is called for to try and clear them.
MB recommend that coolant is changed at 2 year intervals.
Flush the system and add new antifreeze of your choice, most are suitable for mixed metal engines, MB stuff may be the best but most of the reputable makers claim that theirs is suitable, for the UK use about 40% antifreeze to 60% clean tap water mix.
Do not use more than 50% antifreeze, the soloution at this stregnth or greater has a much lower thermal capacity and localised overheating may occur if the unit is continuosly worked hard in very hot weather.
If the new coolant gets any orange tint after some weeks I would reccomend that the head gasket is investigated, if it doesn't then you are in the clear.
The brown sludge will settle in both the radiator and heater matrix tending to block up their water tubes as it does, the stuff will set hard if left for extended periods and destroy the matrix or radiator. It has little effect on parts that move but if its severe the stat and any valves in the heater circuit can get dodgy in operation, it has to be quite severe to cause these parts to give trouble.
It is almost immpossible to flush the stuff out of the radiator/matrix cores because you simply cannot get enough flushing water to flow through the partialy blocked tubes, a chemical method is called for to try and clear them.
MB recommend that coolant is changed at 2 year intervals.
turnipsock
Senior Member
Pretty much agree with Wireman.
Antifreeze is not a very good coolant, it's just there to stop your engine rusting.
You can run 40% antifreeze in the summer as it's not likley to freeze, this increases the cooling capacity.
I once tried one of these flush things you get from Hellfords, it flushed the seals right out of my waterpump. Its not the easiest thing to change on your car.
Antifreeze is not a very good coolant, it's just there to stop your engine rusting.
You can run 40% antifreeze in the summer as it's not likley to freeze, this increases the cooling capacity.
I once tried one of these flush things you get from Hellfords, it flushed the seals right out of my waterpump. Its not the easiest thing to change on your car.
wireman
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on older models (my 124) they are on the block (drvers side) behind/near the alternator and on the lower bottom corner of the rad, the rad tap is usualy red plastic.
If there aint any to be seen or felt take the bottom hose off the radiator and the bulk of the coolant will drain there, fill it with clean water, run it a short while and drain it again then refill with AF soloution. make sure that you put the hose and clip on properly, it may be a little difficult to access.
If there aint any to be seen or felt take the bottom hose off the radiator and the bulk of the coolant will drain there, fill it with clean water, run it a short while and drain it again then refill with AF soloution. make sure that you put the hose and clip on properly, it may be a little difficult to access.
- Thread Starter
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Great thanks, will look in the morning. Should i definitely run the car with the car ON after refill to get rid of any air? How does it get released if i do this? Sorry to be thick just trying to do the right thing!
Cheers
Jon
Cheers
Jon
Tashman
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You mean cap not car?
yeah i always put the car through 1 complete heat cycle so that the thermostat has fully opened with the cap off. then I let it cool over night, top-up if required in the morning and refit the cap.
yeah i always put the car through 1 complete heat cycle so that the thermostat has fully opened with the cap off. then I let it cool over night, top-up if required in the morning and refit the cap.
