W124 a/c

silver fox

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Hi all,

Looked for an answer to this before asking but please forgive me if i missed it!

Got my aircon re-gassed by an indie, and no dramas, all lovely and cold for a couple of days, but then all of a sudden not cold anymore? Took it back and indie re gassed free of charge. Exactly the same happened again?

Any ideas to what may be wrong??? Where should i start to look??

Many thanks in advance
SF
 

television

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The car must be put on to a leak test, this is where they insert a dye, and you can see where it is leaking from
 

mikestrivens

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You really need to take it to an aircon specialist. They will pressurise the system with nitrogen and dye and this will detect the smaller leaks that most non-specialists cannot find.
 

Richard Moakes

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If it's leaking out over a couple of days, then a halogen detector will most likely find the leak. Any competent aircon specialist will have one of these as well as flouro dye, dry nitrogen and a UV lamp etc..

No system should be refilled by anyone if they suspect it leaks, it's environmentally hostile and wasteful of refrigerant.
 

mikestrivens

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No system should be refilled by anyone if they suspect it leaks, it's environmentally hostile and wasteful of refrigerant.

I read somewhere, probably on this forum, that it is also illegal for these reasons.
 

television

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I read somewhere, probably on this forum, that it is also illegal for these reasons.

You are right, just a few days back a post by cool ??? he pointed it all out
 

Number_Cruncher

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Before too long, (July 2009 IIRC) you won't be able to buy refrigerant without a refrigerant handling certificate.

If you do service your own AC systems (responsibly, of course!), it might be worth getting a stock of refrigerant in place now.
 
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silver fox

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Hi again,
Well not good news:( Took the car in for a test, and they found a leak!!
It was coming from the air con radiator, but the guy says i must also get a new drier.
Cost - euro 199 for radiator
euro 89 for drier

Overall cost with labour - euro 550

I have found cheaper rads on tinternet but how much of a job is it to change it myself?

Many thanks in advance for any advice
SF
stevebowron@hotmail.com
 
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silver fox

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Anyone?
I realise i will need to get it re gassed by a pro, but if i can do the fitting myself, i think it will be a little cheaper overall.

Best Regards
SF
 

television

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I can give you the info on fitting the parts
 
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silver fox

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That would be brilliant, if it's dooable, i will order the parts and just get it re-gassed at the garage, hopefully saving myself a few quid:D

Look forward to any info you could give me

Kind Regards
SF
stevebowron@hotmail.com
 

Number_Cruncher

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You should get any residual gas in the system properly recovered rather than venting to atmosphere (as much for your own safety as well as the environment)

Take care to cap off any pipes you disconnect - contamination inside the system will cause blockages in the throttle device (whether TXV or orifice tube) and may also get trapped in the valves in the compressor, reducing performance - also, you don't want the receiver dryer to try to dry out the atmosphere - it will soon become saturated and useless.

As long as the system hasn't been opened and left, I don't see why you must fit a new receiver dryer, but, it shouldn't be an expensive part.
 
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silver fox

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PS, looking on that site, is it the condenser or the evaporator that sits in behind the radiator on the right hand side looking into the engine bay????

Dont want to order the wrong part!!!
 

Number_Cruncher

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The condenser sits in front of the engine's radiator, the evaporator is inside the car (hidden deep behind the dashboard!), and the receiver dryer is on the passenger side inner wing, near the ABS pump.
 

Richard Moakes

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You will probably need new O ring seals on the fittings, these need to be lubricated with the right oil (PAG for R134a) before you assemble the joint.

As others have said, if you open the system or get a new receiver dryer, then be sure to plug the fittings whilst it is open to reduce the uptake of moisture by the dessicant.
 
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silver fox

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Many thanks guys,
Now found a couple of places over here where i can buy the parts for around euro 110 for both parts:D, as soon as i find out how to do it, i;ll be ordering them. How long should the job take?? Minus the gassing obviously, as i will have to rely on ze Germans for that bit!!

Kind Regards
SF
 

Richard Moakes

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Soak the unions you intend to undo with diesel, plus gas or some other releasing agent for a few days prior to starting the job.

Not sure what time I would allow, but I would expect the job to take me 2 - 3 hrs of careful plodding and making sure everything is clean and gas tight. It's not something to be hurried unless you are doing it for a living :)

Good luck with it.
 

Number_Cruncher

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>>be lubricated with the right oil (PAG for R134a) before you assemble the joint.

Be careful here.

PAG oil, of the correct viscosity, is required to lubricate the compressor, and should be injected with or before the new refrigerant, but, oddly enough, PAG oil should *not* be used on the O rings (even on a R134a system) - they need to be lubricated with a mineral oil (the mineral oil for older R12 systems is very good for this purpose)
 

Richard Moakes

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>>be lubricated with the right oil (PAG for R134a) before you assemble the joint.

Be careful here.

PAG oil, of the correct viscosity, is required to lubricate the compressor, and should be injected with or before the new refrigerant, but, oddly enough, PAG oil should *not* be used on the O rings (even on a R134a system) - they need to be lubricated with a mineral oil (the mineral oil for older R12 systems is very good for this purpose)

I never knew that, but I am always happy to learn :)

Do you know why this is ?
 


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