W124 auto box. What should I do??

[gorselands]

Hi om613. Replaced the 2 vacuum valves under the scuttle that operate windows fairly recently. Are there any other vacuum connections associated with with the gearbox. if so where am I looking?

 

[John Laidlaw]

Thanks d215yq, The 722.4 dipsticks must be like hen's teeth. Nothing showing up in the UK. Getting hold of one is the first thing, then, I think, with the engine running and warm check/fill the gearbox. I will see how much MB charge for the dipstick or try a scrapper. There is an MB garage/enthusiast in the south who forum members recommended and who specializes in good condition used parts. I've had electrical stuff from him ages ago but I can't remember his name/business. If anyone knows it please let me know.
Thanks again- Mike

Mike, it might be worth trying Opie Oils for the dipstick (and oil), barring that maybe Dave at MD Motorcare would be good enough to lend you a workshop dipstick (IIRC you use MB Wirral in Carr lane, don’t suppose they’d lend you one?). Was the transmission specialist in Wallasey by any chance?

 

[gorselands]

Thanks John, sorry for delayed reply, at a mate's funeral. Yes, the transmission specialist is in Wallasey. I will try your suggestions. MB Wirral said to bring in the car. It doesn't drive now and due to illness I have had to surrender my license for 12 months, so have time to get things sorted one way or another.

 

[LostKiwi]

You should be able to source a dipstick from a breakers yard. The 722.4 was a common gearbox in 124s, 129s and others back in the 90s. Maybe try Dronsfields or similar.

 

[gorselands]

Sorry for wasting everyone's time re the dipstick.
D215yq was right, once I managed to get the black cap off, the dipstick was attached. Checked the ATF level and there isn't any fluid when cold. What damage that has done I don't know. Will it damage the box any more if I run the engine to (80 degs.?) leaving it in neutral and check again when warm? Alternatively should I put ATF fluid in when cold to min level (8mm?) I won't try moving the car until I know that the box has ATF in it. I think the ATF expands when warm and you check again. What's the capacity? I believe it's 6 litres.

Thanks Mike

 

[LostKiwi]

Put some in till it shows on the dipstick.
Run it up but do not drive but do cycle through the gears a few times. Shut down and top up to bottom of dipstick again. Keep repeating till warm then set level correctly.
I'd also be looking to see where the oil has gone. You may have a leaking transmission cooler or gearbox seal.

 

[LostKiwi]

Actually thinking about it the 722.4 has 2 sets of markings on the dipstick. Lower ones for cold, upper ones for hot.
Fill to the cold markings then check at the hot once warm.

 

[gorselands]

Thanks LostKiwi. Discovered the pipe to the ATF cooler is damaged and leaking. It was suggested that I do a temporary repair using rubber pipe and jubilee clips. Then if the car Drives OK replacing both pipes with new ones.

Mike

 

[gorselands]

Thanks again LostKiwi.

 

[d215yq]

Aren't you just trying to get some fluid in there, take it for a test drive and then see if the box still works? So just put some in til it's over min on the dipstick cold and then drive the car a few miles and see how it works. I assume it's not leaking enough to go to empty over a few miles (i.e. not pouring out all over the floor!).

If the geearbox works fine and changes smooth on test drive then you just need to pay someone to repair pipe and change the ATF (at teh same time prefereably) and then it's fine and you can invetsigate the couplings/propshaft centre bearings later...

 

[gorselands]

Thanks again d215yq. I will get under the car to see where the leak/s are coming from then do a temp repair, maybe tape it up if it's not on the union. Whatever, if it's not pouring out I'll do as you suggest and keep my fingers crossed. The prop shaft is not a primary concern at the moment. It will be a shame if the gearbox has gone as I really don't think replacing/repairing it will be a realistic proposition for me.

 

[gorselands]

1993 Mercedes w124 220CE Automatic 722.4. Chassis No. WDB1240422CO10398

Hi, hope there is still someone out there. After moving the car last week on the drive, gear engagement was poor and the car jerked. Today it moved easily and no problem selecting drive,reverse, neutral and park. So maybe something was stuck (plates) as I hadn't moved it for a while.

Removed floor pan and found the ATF leak coming from where the pipe is secured below radiator. The clip was corroded and I suspect the pipe had been rubbing, there appears to be a tiny split in it. With the clip removed I could see the ATF dripping and running along the pipe.

The pipe in question is the feed pipe that goes from the top of the oil cooler down the side then underneath the radiator before connecting to a flexi pipe (well it has coiled wire around it).

Does anyone know the pipe I am referring to and where to get one? I want to go aftermarket at least until I have fully tested the gearbox. Can't take it on the road, due to illness had to surrender license for 12 months, 8 to go. MB said feed and return are both in five sections at @ £73.00 +vat. each section!! Internet is not throwing up anything and I don't have a diagram.

Any help, as always, much appreciated.

Thanks - Mike

 

[LostKiwi]

You can (temporarily) bypass the cooler as long as you aren't towing anything or driving through desert areas etc...

 

[gorselands]

Thanks LostKiwi, how would you bypass the oil cooler?

 

[LostKiwi]

1/2 rubber hose with hoseclips to hold it onto the old pipes. Or just cut the old damaged section of pipe and use the rubber hose to join the pieces.
It's not under high pressure.

 

[gorselands]

Had thought about that, the pipe diameter is 10 mm. I would still like to replace the pipe. A German company, Trucktec seem to supply ATF parts at a very good price through UK companies.

But the reply from Autodoc : "According to the Vin-code WDB1240422CO10398, feed/return pipes from autobox to oil cooler are original. It means that only the manufacturer/dealer is able to provide it." ???

 

[LostKiwi]

You could try a breaker?

 

[gorselands]

Problem is can't get out and about at the moment but maybe ring round a few and if it sounds right get a friend to run me round.

 

[LostKiwi]

Personally I'd just sleeve it. For a long term repair use silicon tubing and quality hose clips.

 

[gorselands]

Thanks, I just might well just do that. Presumably silicon is better than rubber and would seal round the pipe better with proper Jubilee clips - maybe add silicon sealant. Does silicon stick to silicon?