W124 Coupe rust....confused

[woodsie]

I need some help! I have been collecting some quotes to have my 1995 W124 Coupe tidied up. Usual problem, small amounts of rust appearing middle of doors, front/ rear edges of front wheel arches and around the badge on the bonnnet. Some of the people are saying renew wings for a long term fix and others after looking at the car are confident they can remove/ treat the rust saying it will look good for three to four years. If that is the case I would be happy with this, but who to believe?
The cheapest quote is approx £750 and that is treating the rust, and the most expensive is approx £1400 with new wings.
Any views out there as to whether rust treatment will last for the three to four years claimed?

Appreciate your thoughts

Woodsy

 

[television]

Rust is a two way thing. First we have rust that comes from the electrolytic action of dissimilar metals, the rust from stone chips that have been allowed to fester, last we have the worst type, that is rust coming through from the back, the first two can be dealt with, there is no real answer to rust coming through from the back, other than to replace the panels, in this case the wings, whilst you could do some of the donkey work your self and fit them, they do need treating before they are fitted, maybe the guy you use will do this and let you fit. A lot of money can be saved by stripping the car yourself.

Malcolm

 

[clive williams]

Rust is a two way thing. First we have rust that comes from the electrolytic action of dissimilar metals, the rust from stone chips that have been allowed to fester, last we have the worst type, that is rust coming through from the back, the first two can be dealt with, there is no real answer to rust coming through from the back, other than to replace the panels,
Malcolm

Malcolm I have had some success in stopping electrolytic action on Range Rover panels by cleaning and drying the panel out thoroughly including removing any dirt and then coating liberally with waxoyl. By removing the water there has been no noticeable deterioration over the last 9 years. I've kept my eye on the waxoyl to ensure it still protects.

Clive

500E
E320CDIT210

 

[74merc]

Hi
I'm in the market for a W124 coupe at the minute so have been doing some research. I get the impression that this problem is specific to facelift cars. Can anyone comment?

Martin

 

[twickman]

Hi
I'm in the market for a W124 coupe at the minute so have been doing some research. I get the impression that this problem is specific to facelift cars. Can anyone comment?

Martin

I'be had mine for over 3 years and it had some rust which I've stupidly not attended to and which is getting worse but I'm getting it fixed next week I hope. A real problem area is the rear wheel arches. Mine are rotting badly altho they were well on their way when I got it. Mine is a 93 so pre the later facelift if that's what you mean.

Go for it though, I love the car. I got it with 158 on it and after it got to about 175 the torque converter went - apparently the engines keep going but the transmission can't handle it. That was about 1200 quid but is the only big money I've spent since I got it Nov 2002. Get one with cruise if you can.

All the best

Dave

 

[74merc]

Thanks Dave,

is there any model to go for or avoid? I have my eye on an e320 but am slightly concerned about MPG.

Martin

 

[andy_k]

don't be concerned about the mpg on an e320. As long as you resist the temptation to drive it like you've stolen it then they are reasonably economical.

The 320 is a superb engine though with more than enough power to really embarrass a lot of people in the traffic light grand prix

expect low to mid 20's around town and low 30s on a run on normal unleaded fuel dropping down to 15-20 when you start misbehaving

HTH

Andy

 

[kth286]

Martin

I would also go along with Andy's remarks - great car.

Regards

 

[74merc]

Thanks for the feedback guys. There's also a 300CE-24 on the market at the minute. How do they compare to the e320?

 

[Donnydl]

Other have had the rust on the wings on his E class "treated" just before christmas. Then first week in Feb he replaced the wings. In fact I lie it was not actually rust but bubbling from behind the panel. Having said this he did have some bird poo bubbles done on the doors at the same time which are fine. I think it just depends which areas of the car are affected.

 

[mike65]

74merc I dont have either but I belive the older 300 24v is a more fragile unit then the 320 which replaced it I think with top end troubles (poor cooling?) the later 6 pots have a problem with biodegradable wiring. If buying try to find if the engine loom has been replaced, they suffered through heat exposure.

Mike.

 

[andy_k]

the 300 24 valve is an absolutely superb engine once you get it revving but in all honesty it's not very "civilised". It's noisy and harsh at low revs. To get the best from it you need to be really hammering it so be prepared for heavy fuel consumption if you really have fun with it.

The 320 is superb, smooth, quiet and will pull from tickover right up to the red line with the minimum of fuss - admittedly once you get them revving they sound superb.

Given the choice I'd go for the 320 every time and don't stress over the wiring loom. It's a DIY job to replace it if it fails

Andy