w124 e220 estate ... ignition key sticks in barrel

[44732]

Hello , we would welcome some feedback on the following
having no knowledge of cars ..we purchased above car in Dec.
Have noticed that ocassionally the boot does not open.. ie .. having unlocked the car the boot remains " locked " trial n error finally opens boot,
Radio arial does not always either go up...or go down electroniacally depending on its mood !
More worryingly have twiced had ignition key "struck " in barrel .. . When engine switched off. The auto gearbox can still be moved from P to N to One Two etc. pPlaying with gear selector & key have each time resolved issue. ie key out of ignition !
Are these 3 things in anyway related.. ?
I intend getting a new key cut.. Afraid thats as far as my practicality goes
Thanking you in advance.

 

[television]

Hello , we would welcome some feedback on the following
having no knowledge of cars ..we purchased above car in Dec.
Have noticed that ocassionally the boot does not open.. ie .. having unlocked the car the boot remains " locked " trial n error finally opens boot,
Radio arial does not always either go up...or go down electroniacally depending on its mood !
More worryingly have twiced had ignition key "struck " in barrel .. . When engine switched off. The auto gearbox can still be moved from P to N to One Two etc. pPlaying with gear selector & key have each time resolved issue. ie key out of ignition !
Are these 3 things in anyway related.. ?
I intend getting a new key cut.. Afraid thats as far as my practicality goes
Thanking you in advance.

The key can only be removed with gear lever in park and footbrake not depressed.

Malcolm

 

[44732]

thanks for the reply Malcolm.

 

[television]

Re the aerial, once the nylon cord that pushes up the rods start to stick, best thing to do is to get a replacement rod and cord, if MB aerial £15.00.
never try to oil, it makes matters worse, the rods con be cleaned with T Cut, by having the aerial half up and sliding the different sections up and down while cleaning.Worth a try first

Malcolm

 

[andy_k]

ignore a key getting stuck in the lock at your own peril. These locks do fail and whilst you can still move the key it's a very simple and quick job. If you leave it until the key jams completely then it's major surgery. Order a new lock barrel from your dealer if there is any doubt as to the integrity of the one you have.

as to the boot the lock on the estates is a multi position one. If you turn the key fully right (using a "clock" analogy the key turns to the three o'clock position) it will isolate it from the central locking and you'll need to unlock it manually turn fully left (nine o'clock).

To put it back on the central locking just turn the key gently to the right (2 o'clock). You can then use the rear door to open all the doors by turning gently to the left (10 o'clock).

The aerialsd often stick and are an easy "fix" with it fully extended look for any obvious kinks and bends then straighten them you can try rubbing the aerial mast down with a very fine wet and dry paper and lubricating it with a light oil NOT WD40 as this will only make things worse over time.

As Malcolm says you need to have the box in park to remove the key but I think you'll also need to have the footbrake depressed.

Andy

 

[television]

As Malcolm says you need to have the box in park to remove the key but I think you'll also need to have the footbrake depressed.

Andy[/QUOTE]

On my SL lock, basically from a 124 the pedal must not be depressed, as I found out when I first tried to buy some petrol on the way home, I restarted drove to the rear of the garage got out and the key came out, back to the pumps and back to square one, I got out and out came key, it tells you in the handbook.

Malcolm

 

[Ian Brown]

Agree with Andy don’t ignore the key not turning don’t even bother to get a new key cut cause it is the barrel that is the problem. if you go into your steelership you can get what’s called a service barrel which costs about £40 or you can order an original barrel which has the same key as the car @ a cost of £52+vat which I am ordering. As to forgetting about the ignition sticking I’ve been there seen it, done it and got the skint knuckles from removing the old steering lock. It only takes 15mins to fit if the key turns to position 1 to remove the old barrel or a couple of hours trying to remove the steering column to get the barrel out.

 

[television]

to avoid any confusion on this thread re key. with the car parked and in P the key should just slide in and out, one may have to take the presure off the lock whilst turning the key by moving the steering wheel a little when starting. If the key does not slide out easily when parked up, change the lock ( Key section).
The only allowable lubrication on the aerial is white grease
malcolm

 

[tom7035]

Aerial lubrication.

Sorry, but I have to disagree regarding lubrication of radio aerial element. ANY kind of oil or grease is bad as this attracts dust & grime and eventually it will stick. A good clean then a polish with ordinary car wax is best. (Don't leave any wax residue on it).

 

[television]

Sorry, but I have to disagree regarding lubrication of radio aerial element. ANY kind of oil or grease is bad as this attracts dust & grime and eventually it will stick. A good clean then a polish with ordinary car wax is best. (Don't leave any wax residue on it).

I should have made it clearer, I was refering to the nylon cord, not the rods that as you say work best dry and clean. I did say this in my second posting.

Malcolm

 

[andy_k]

I wasn't recommending drowning it in oil either but whilst attempting to repair, free up straighten etc an aerial mast I'd rather be using a light coat of oil to keep things moving smoothly than attempting the job with no lubrication. A well fitting mast will clear any oil the first couple of times it's used.

Andy