W124 E280 battery? ignition?

television

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Not more than 20 to 30 M/A, no wake up on that car
 
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The Big E

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Thanks television, my small digital meter blew a fuse but my old multi meter shows a high reading couldn't decipher how many M/A.:rolleyes: Disconecting the fuse to the blower motor though, (original fuse melted through, blade fuse wired under the fuse panel) reduced the current reading somewhat, is that likely to be the brushes? I still think there is something else though, the 'comfort' has never worked. Will try to buy some decent equipment tomorrow and have another go.
 

television

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There should not be anything running when the ignition turned off and doing a current check, always start on the highest range and switch down to get a sensible reading
 
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Malcom, everything was off, but unpluging the 'repair fit' fuse to the blower motor reduced the current reading...wired in series to the positive side of the battery. I'll know by how much when I've bought a decent meter today.
BTW the fuse has the bigger red wire to one side (feed) and two on the other..medium size PINK (guess) 1.5 and, I think the colour is, a black/yellow (guess) 0.75. Any idea where they go??
Eric
 

television

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Are the wire you are referencing to on the heater fan circuits
 
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Hi television, I been leading myself and you guys up the wrong path. Because fuse 12 had melted through, as did my diesel, I assumed I was looking at the blower wiring because of the blade fuse wired inside the fuse box. WRONG, the blower wires have been moved to fuse 11 and the blade fuse possibly takes the wires from the 11 position. The blade fuse is a 20A...original position 11 8A. marked intake manifold heater (gearbox oil cooler)
The wires to the blade fuse are:- large 2.5 red from back of fuse board, other side of blade fuse;-one PINK 1.5 guess and one black & yellow 1.0 guess, both linked under heat shrink. I had all panel out looking at the blower wiring, no pink in there. Looked at the 'comfort' box under the back seat, there is a similar red/black No. 3 pin on connector 'E'. The windows, roof, seats etc have never worked without the ignition on. I think I'll have to find a good auto electrician. I'm getting a bit lon in the tooth for all this.
Eric
 
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Cheers Malcom, thanks for the link, I have already printed off one for a 1994 E320 you put on in another thread, but this new one can do nothing but help. I've been searching the forum for any clues I can find, found a few pointers to try. The MB instructions that came with the car says it does have full closure and my diesel (Scorpion) has full closure that works just fine. I'm bothered that I'll walk away from the 280 with a window open as I've got so used to the diesel locking everything. BTW blew a fuse in my new digital tester in no time at all:Oops:...told you electrics are not my strong point, but I'll not give up.:p
Thanks again.
 
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Cheers Malcom, I've saved the site into my favourites. Strange it dosen't list the '95 E280. I've got lots to study now:p
Thanks again, your'e a diamond.
 

television

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There is no difference in the models on the wiring, so they should be like yours, they do list the wire colours and that makes all the difference
 
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There's a difference somewhere:confused:been through three pages 300's and 320's looking at colours coming from the fuse box. Not a pink one in sight:mad: I've tried to get into WIS but it won't work for me, even following the instructions in the 'Gazette'. But Hey-ho where theres a will.....
I'm gona sleep on it now.:-?
 

television

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I take it it is plain pink that you are looking for
 
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Yes Malcom, it's the SOLID PINK I can't find, it definitely comes from a loom deep inside the fuse box. The wires to the blade fuse are:- large 2.5 red from back of fuse board constant live, other side of blade fuse;-one PINK 1.5 guess and one black & yellow 1.0 guess, both linked under heat shrink. Sorry for the delay in replying, work tends to get in the way of what one wants to do:rolleyes:. Forgot to mention, tried to start the car with the spade fuse removed...turned over fine but would not start, fuse back in, fired first time.
 
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television

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The only all pink are for head restraints that I can see
 
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Yeah, I only found pink around the seats. I'm trying to obtain a used fuse panel from the same car with the same spec, with the wires cut leaving a couple of inches to cross reference. Don't know if I'll be lucky or not. I will try my Merc people to try and glean some info, they should, hopefully, be able to pull up a diagram or two for me. I'll try anything.:p
Eric
 
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Battery drain sorted

Hi all, It's been a while and as I said before, I don't use it much and seem to work on it less, (bit of a part time hobby). Anyway, my MOT man told me last year that this years test would be tougher, 'if it's on the car it must work'.
Now, the headlamp wipers have never worked, so to make life simple and be sure it got a new MOT I removed them from the car. The OS wiper motor sits in a well in the bodywork with a drain hole at the bottom........drain blocked and the motor was sitting in a deep well of water....need I say more. Water had got into the motor....siezed it solid and caused a short to earth. Both motors removed and washer pump disconnected....PRESTO...no battery drain. It now holds power as does my E300 Diesel which sat at Heathrow for four weeks and started first turn!
Still got to sort out that 'comfort control' prob.:confused:
 

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I am seeing lots of comfort control module failures. Typically the failure is that the windows power themselves up when the car is parked. It usually results in a flat battery. Replace the comfort relay with a good one

There is a drain hole in the plastic try under the headlight wipers. When that gets blocked up, as you say, the motor sits in water. The headlight wipers are a poor design IMHO

Nick Froome
 
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red/green lights

Thanks Nick
The central locking works fine with the fob or key. No full closure using the key in the passenger door.
Front door open..no power to windows or roof until ignition is switched on, then they all work as they should, I'm certain they should work without ignition and a front door open. They do on my E300 which also has full closure.
I have swopped the working control unit from my diesel but it makes no difference to the E280.
I have noticed today that the alarm window in the tailgate only flashes the green (open). It still locks and unlocks the car. The drivers door window flashes on both colours red (close) green (open) and it all works correctly.
Do you know if the lights in those windows are wired seperatly through the tailgate hinge boot or are they integral within the window? I've repaired some other wiring in this area on my E300.
Thanks again.
 
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