W124 E300D (1993) corrosion of hydraulic pipework to rear suspension

bachmawr

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Help ! Appreciate any guidance on problem just experienced on my '93 E300D !
What started as a minor leak, has now resulted in complete failure of pipework circulating the hydraulic fluid to the rear suspension (while I was waiting for the my local MB specialist to confirm options/solutions).
My local MB specialist has now recommended only one solution possible - i.e. replace complete pipework (front to back). I'm informed the actual MB parts are not too expensive (£269), but the sting is the labour because the rear subframe needs to be dropped to get at the pipes and replace. Estimated at 10+ hours work ! There is also no guarantee that once the work has commenced other items may be required.
The pipes (2 running in parrallel from front to back) look to be in good condition generally with only minor corrosion visible. The point of failure is a straight section where the pipes are secured to the underbody towards the back of the car. Is it possible to replace only a small section of the pipes (say 4" to 6") ?
Any other suggestions would be most welcome.
Thanks, Steve
 

meanie

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There are no shortcuts on this,apart from maybe getting aeroquip hoses made.That would depend on the availability of compatable unions though.
Although 10hrs seems a little steep,I assume that this was based upon seeing the car though,& as the car is now 15yrs plus now,there are plenty of pitfalls.
 

turbopete

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Your Mercedes
2010 '60' Ford Mondeo 2.0TDCi Zetec (sorry)
There are no shortcuts on this,apart from maybe getting aeroquip hoses made.That would depend on the availability of compatable unions though.
Although 10hrs seems a little steep,I assume that this was based upon seeing the car though,& as the car is now 15yrs plus now,there are plenty of pitfalls.

agreed. problem with even attempting to renew little sections is that they can take almost as long to fit etc as complete pipes, by the time you joint the old pipes etc as needed, obtain new pipes etc, then when doing the job you need to allow time in case of seized nuts, bolts etc so my advice would be replace everything that needs the subframe lowered to replace, if your keeping the car as it saves you paying to have it done again possibly next year!
 
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bachmawr

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thanks for your prompt responses.
I was grasping at straws !!
 

Bolide

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Your Mercedes
BMW 525 Diesel Touring
Bear in mind that the fuel pipes, brake pipes and self-levelling pipes all make the same journey front to back. If you're going to replace one set I'd look hard at doing all three

In my experience the #1 MOT failure for W124 estates is corroded brake / fuel / self-levelling pipes

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 

John Turner

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Your Mercedes
S124 250TD (1989), S124 E300TD (1995), S211 E320 cdi Sport (2007)
W124 Estate suspension leak- can I drive it to the garage?

My 1989 250TD has a similar problem - it needs a new lever arm link rod (about £30) and 2 new rear suspension pipes (£115). The labour for these is estimated at under 3 hours at MB - but maybe this is replacing less than for your car.

On getting back from the garage where problem on mine was investigated and parts ordered, I stopped and noticed hydraulic fluid leaking from one of these corroded pipes - the corrosion must have been even worse than we thought. The car soon dropped onto its springs (on both sides). Wheels still have clearance in body work, but car has vitually no shock absorbance. I managed to limp it home (a mile or so) before 3/4 of the fluid had gone. I now need to get it to the garage (a distance of 20 miles of dual carriageway.
Two questions:
Is is safe to drive that distance?
Can I do harm to the springs or struts if I drive it slowly in this state?
I do not want to take any risks to anyone else, me or the car!
Thanks for your advice.
 


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