W124 Electric window problem

[TonyE300D]

My W124 has developed a problem with the driver's electric window.

The window goes up and down well enough but there is a loud metallic "Clunk!" when it gets to the top of its travel. There is a similar "Clunk!" just as it starts its journey down from fully closed.

This leads me to suspect that it needs a new regulator mechanism. Is it worth doing any more diagnosis, or should I just cut my losses, buy a new replacement regulator mechanism and have my local indie fit it?

 

[jibcl500]

The regulator has had it mine does it too, £70 ish from MB.

jib

 

[jibcl500]

sorry £79 plus vat


jib

 

[TonyE300D]

Many thanks jib,

As I thought.

Any idea how much an indie should charge me to fit it?

Tony

 

[jibcl500]

£100 to £150 for labour at a guess, me more cos I havent done one yet, easy enough I would have thought even for a Goodish home DIY.

jib

 

[TonyE300D]

£100 to £150 for labour at a guess, me more cos I havent done one yet, easy enough I would have thought even for a Goodish home DIY.

jib

I'm an anxious and hesitant DIYer, always afraid of causing more damage than I solve.

How easy is it to remove and re-fit the door trim panels?

 

[Bolide]

It takes about 45 mins start-to-finish if you've done a few before

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[wireman]

The door trim lifts off once you have removed these three bits:-
the trangular plasitic trim patch behind the door mirror and mirror handle (its got a crafty little block to hold it on, you slide this out),
the trim at the top of the slam handle/arm rest hides an M6 bolt (10mm socket),
the escutchion around the latch is held by a No2 phillips type screw.
Then lift the whole door trim about 1/2 inch and ease it away, take care to clear the lock button as you extract the panel.

You are now in a position to get at the regulator which from your description has damaged teeth on the large sheet metal quadrant gear that lifts the window, mine has been repaired by welding some new teeth onto the left over stubbs of teeth.

For once the Hayness book of lies has this process accurately documented along with intructions of how to get the glass and regulator out and in again.

There is a hole in the frame to get a socket onto the nut that secures the glass to the regulator, you need to open the glass about 3inches to get the nut in the right position.

Take the bush from around the lock button off while you refit the panel its awkward to get the panel back on over it.

 

[TonyE300D]

The door trim lifts off once you have removed these three bits:-
the trangular plasitic trim patch behind the door mirror and mirror handle (its got a crafty little block to hold it on, you slide this out),
the trim at the top of the slam handle/arm rest hides an M6 bolt (10mm socket),
the escutchion around the latch is held by a No2 phillips type screw.
Then lift the whole door trim about 1/2 inch and ease it away, take care to clear the lock button as you extract the panel.

You are now in a position to get at the regulator which from your description has damaged teeth on the large sheet metal quadrant gear that lifts the window, mine has been repaired by welding some new teeth onto the left over stubbs of teeth.

For once the Hayness book of lies has this process accurately documented along with intructions of how to get the glass and regulator out and in again.

There is a hole in the frame to get a socket onto the nut that secures the glass to the regulator, you need to open the glass about 3inches to get the nut in the right position.

Take the bush from around the lock button off while you refit the panel its awkward to get the panel back on over it.

That's brilliant, wireman. Thank you so much for this.

It's good to hear the Haynes manual is useful for something.

 

[star]

also just check that your window mech bolts haven't come loose in the door.

 

[jibcl500]

I thought the mech was loose but no I have teeth missing off the big wheel.

jib

 

[wireman]

Some where in the middle of my previous post I forgot to include:-

remove the interior door handle, it and its housing slides forwards and pulls out then unhook the latch operating rod.

This is before you lift the panel.

Mind that you dont snap off one af the plastic hooks that attach the panel to the door.

 

[Wingreen]

faulty regulator blamed on fitting

I bought two second-hand ones (both front ones needed replacing) and fitted them 6 months ago. Bit fiddly but not really a problem. I suggest taking digital photos of the mechanism before you dismantle as this lets you check that you are putting it back in as it should be.
My problem is that one of the two I fitted has gone again (the dreaded clunking sound and the inability of the window to close completely). Although the part was only guaranteed for 3 months it was described as "good as new" so I emailed seller to complain. Here's his reply:
"it is crucial that when the regulator is fitted the movement of the window is smooth and free from the top to the bottom. There are many adjustments to make after the regulator is fitted to ensure this. We only supply units with a perfect set of teeth and even a new one not adjusted correctly will fail. It is unfortunate but the window regulators on the 124 chassis have always been a problem due to their poor quality and design"
Being a cynic it occurs to me that seller is saying this to cover up a faulty, sub-standard part.
Has anyone experience or knowledge that could either validate or challenge the seller's view?

 

[wireman]

I would agree that the design is poor, not enough metal is used in most parts of the unit i.e. the quadrant is too thin and the lift arm is flimsy and bendy. In addition the rubber motor mounts are only just up to the job, they fall apart after a few years.

 

[teddycatkin]

Tony I bought a new set of teeth from mettalpeter in dusseldorf ( E bay ) £10 +6 pp
It sound a big job but is really quite easy - any workshop with a mig can replace the tooth rack then refit it as per H,s manual--another good tip is-no need to take the glass out lower it about an inch and peg it with a small bock of wood and just remove the fuze that controls the window -you can still drive the car then in between it being replaced .

 

[roofless]

my 300te did the same till it gave up when it near the top when i had a look it was a few teeth striped from the regulator so i got a new one on ebay & fitted it myself not a hard job just need three hand