W124 - Leaking self levelling suspension pipes

[Peter C1974]

Gents,

W124, 1993, 200TE, manual.

One of the two rear self levelling suspension oil pipes that run under the car has corroded and is leaking. I tried a temporary fix with chemical metal filler but that bodge failed.

Is it possible to cut out the rotten section of pipe, form a pair of flanges on the existing pipe and connect a new section? Or is replacement of the pipes the only option? Are there any other known fixes?

A local indie reckons that the rear subframe has to come off and that the job will take 7 hours.

Any ideas?

Regards,

Peter C

 

[Number_Cruncher]

Yes, you should be able to use fittings to make a repair section - ask at a local hydraulic hose makers.

 

[television]

Take the car to a firm that repairs brake pipes and they can fit a new section in, they have the tools to flair the ends of the pipes

 

[meanie]

Whilst it may be possible to make a repair using swage type fittings & a new section,space is so limited over the top of the subframe that trying to ensure that nothing is touching (chaffing) on the subframe and is properly secured to the body may well leave you wishing that you hadn't started.
I've just condenmed some on a 300te & to be fair 7hrs is pretty much what I've quoted.I will be replacing the metal brake pipes,any other pipes or hoses,top ram mounts and the diff bushes/mounts at the same time for that though.
One potential pitfall though is the exhaust condition as it needs to be removed or lowered & supported.

 

[Richard Moakes]

You might have some success with A0039979172

It didn't work for me, the pipe was too far gone, and the leak was on a curved section

Richard

Gents,

W124, 1993, 200TE, manual.

One of the two rear self levelling suspension oil pipes that run under the car has corroded and is leaking. I tried a temporary fix with chemical metal filler but that bodge failed.

Is it possible to cut out the rotten section of pipe, form a pair of flanges on the existing pipe and connect a new section? Or is replacement of the pipes the only option? Are there any other known fixes?

A local indie reckons that the rear subframe has to come off and that the job will take 7 hours.

Any ideas?

Regards,

Peter C

 

[bigshineybike]

I had a rust hole in my hydraulic line under the drivers seat where the clip holds it to the floor.
I made a repair with a rubber hose and two clips which lasted until I had a load in the car.
The repair I did over six months ago which has worked went like this;
Turned a piece of aluminium bar 12mm OD and drilled it 6mm. then sawed it in half. I wrapped tin foil around the rusted hole (to keep glue out the system) splodged epoxy glue into the two halves of the 'clamp' then clamped them over the split with a pair of small jubilee clips. I had to move the pipe clamp as well since the floor has rusted through as well at the same place. strange as the rest of the car is sound at 18 years and 287000 miles.

 

[syncropaddy]

This is what it looks like without the subframe ....

 

[robparker]

There are at the moment, for the first time, some replacement non-hydraulic rear shocks being made for the 124 estates which will mean if this problem comes up you will simply be able to disconnect the SLS pump at the front and fit these new standard shocks.

 

[mej]

That's interesting news. The implication is that the existing estate springs are strong enough to do the job in a dynamic situation, where I understood they were just to maintain ride height when the engine (and therefore SLS pump) were off and the spheres rams not pressured. Do you have a source?

 

[Peter C1974]

EuroCarParts were offering a "normal" shock absorber replacement kit when I had the problem with my TE. I think it cost about £300 back then.

 

[Chris Beeching]

I had the same issue with (initially) my 1987 230TE, and then latterly with my 1992 230TE. I looked at replacing the rigid pipes with new rigids, but as many have pointed out, access is tortuous, and virtually impossible to get new pipes in without 'reshaping' them on their way in, and then reshaping again to fit properly. I took the 'alternative' route of carefully cutting out the two pipes (their lengths are slightly different), very carefully measuring their lengths, and getting South Coast Hydraulics to make me up a set of flexibles. By doing it that way I was able to use one continuous length from sphere to damper, and by using P-clips where the original rigid was fixed, managed to avoid any snag points. To further protect the flexibles, where they passed through the p-clips I eased some protective heater hose over it. The connection to the damper was with a dowty washer for 'added security' against leaks, and now, nearly ten years on the system is still leak-free, and no sign of the flexibles perishing either. Flexibles with the correct banjo on one end and the right thread fitting for the damper on the other were just over £30 for the pair. Remember to thread the damper end through first, and tighten to the damper before finally fitting the banjo end! Hope this helps.