S80
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2007
- Messages
- 350
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- North Lincolnshire
- Your Mercedes
- None at the monent, but there's an OM642 in the Jeep Grand Cherokee!
Hi Guys,
Unfortunately, my '93 W124 280E (M104 engine) failed its MoT emissions test last weekend :-(
Results were:
Fast Idle Test
CO 2.301% (limit 0.300%) FAIL
HC 139ppm (limit 200ppm) PASS
Lambda 0.945 (limit 0.97 - 1.03) FAIL
Second Fast Idle Test
CO 2.208% (limit 0.300%) FAIL
HC 140ppm (limit 200ppm) PASS
Lambda 0.945 (limit 0.97 - 1.03) FAIL
Natural Idle Test
CO 2.748% (limit 0.500%) FAIL
Which I assume means the engine was running rich.
On getting home, a quick check underneath revealed a half-broken lambda sensor - "A-ha!" thought I
I must shamefully admit that I already had a spare £13 Ebay-sourced no-name 'universal' 4-wire zirconia sensor - so that was duly spliced in. The one removed looked like it too was not OE either - but that was done by a previous owner...
The car was driven for half a dozen 'trips' to give the self-adaptation mechanism a chance to 'settle down', and I then called in at a local garage (who did not do the original MoT) to do another emissions test.
I didn't get a print-out of the results because they very kindly did a quick test at no charge, but the CO was down to virtually zero, with a HC figure of 8 to 12 ppm.
The lambda value at natural idle was, however, about 1.08. I don't recall seeing the figure at fast idle because I realised this was being done very much as a favour.
This time, it looks like the engine is running too lean - at natural idle at least.
The mixture has clearly gone from too rich to too lean, so the £13 sensor is at least doing something!
My questions are:
Would an OE sensor give a lambda value at natural idle nearer to 1.00 (not actually part of the MoT test)?
Will things improve even with the cheapie lambda sensor if the self-adaptation is given some more time, over a variety of driving conditions?
Are these cheap 'universal' sensors just a waste of effort?
Do the results indicate that the catalytic converter may still be living?
It was convenient for me to get the original MoT done at a testing station I trust, but that is about 40 miles away (we've moved house recently) - so I'd like to be reasonably sure of passing the emissions before taking it back there. There were no other problems or even 'advisories' so I guess I owe it to the old girl to get her through for another year
Unfortunately, my '93 W124 280E (M104 engine) failed its MoT emissions test last weekend :-(
Results were:
Fast Idle Test
CO 2.301% (limit 0.300%) FAIL
HC 139ppm (limit 200ppm) PASS
Lambda 0.945 (limit 0.97 - 1.03) FAIL
Second Fast Idle Test
CO 2.208% (limit 0.300%) FAIL
HC 140ppm (limit 200ppm) PASS
Lambda 0.945 (limit 0.97 - 1.03) FAIL
Natural Idle Test
CO 2.748% (limit 0.500%) FAIL
Which I assume means the engine was running rich.
On getting home, a quick check underneath revealed a half-broken lambda sensor - "A-ha!" thought I
I must shamefully admit that I already had a spare £13 Ebay-sourced no-name 'universal' 4-wire zirconia sensor - so that was duly spliced in. The one removed looked like it too was not OE either - but that was done by a previous owner...
The car was driven for half a dozen 'trips' to give the self-adaptation mechanism a chance to 'settle down', and I then called in at a local garage (who did not do the original MoT) to do another emissions test.
I didn't get a print-out of the results because they very kindly did a quick test at no charge, but the CO was down to virtually zero, with a HC figure of 8 to 12 ppm.
The lambda value at natural idle was, however, about 1.08. I don't recall seeing the figure at fast idle because I realised this was being done very much as a favour.
This time, it looks like the engine is running too lean - at natural idle at least.
The mixture has clearly gone from too rich to too lean, so the £13 sensor is at least doing something!
My questions are:
Would an OE sensor give a lambda value at natural idle nearer to 1.00 (not actually part of the MoT test)?
Will things improve even with the cheapie lambda sensor if the self-adaptation is given some more time, over a variety of driving conditions?
Are these cheap 'universal' sensors just a waste of effort?
Do the results indicate that the catalytic converter may still be living?
It was convenient for me to get the original MoT done at a testing station I trust, but that is about 40 miles away (we've moved house recently) - so I'd like to be reasonably sure of passing the emissions before taking it back there. There were no other problems or even 'advisories' so I guess I owe it to the old girl to get her through for another year