W124 side and rear light mystery

crt

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2005
Messages
137
Reaction score
10
Your Mercedes
'95 E300D estate, '16 Golf, '58 Unimog 404, '95 Defender CSW
I wonder if someone can help with this problem I am experiencing with my ‘95 e300d estate?

I have lost right hand side, rear and dash lights, and everything else on fuse 3.

The fuse is fine. I have 12v on a multimeter at the bottom of the fuse (ie, the feed to the circuit), but when I attach a bulb I have nothing, suggesting a fragile connection somewhere between the switch and the fuse box, which allows 12v but fails under load. The circuit works if I bridge from any live circuit, inc fuse 8 (the left hand lights).

I’ve stripped down the fuse box and the problem persists at the grey wire feeding fuse 3.

Before I strip out the headlamp switch, has anyone experienced something similar? I believe the lights route through a relay - could it be this? Also, if I can’t trace problem with feed, where would be the best place to tap in a substitute feed - back at the switch, at the relay (where?) or possibly from fuse 8 (my initial view is that the feed does not look big enough to support both circuits, but views welcome).

Thank you.
 
OP
C

crt

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2005
Messages
137
Reaction score
10
Your Mercedes
'95 E300D estate, '16 Golf, '58 Unimog 404, '95 Defender CSW
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #2
I’ve now fixed this. The grey feed to fuse 3 comes, according to the wiring diagram, directly from the rotary headlamp switch. I extracted the switch, located the grey, cut it, and soldered a new 8amp wire to the switch end, threaded it through a convenient hole through the bulkhead behind the switch which comes out under the fuse box and terminated it at fuse 3. I still don’t know why the original grey failed as it goes straight in the loom at either end, but fail it had.
 

Blobcat

Moderator
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Messages
38,961
Reaction score
27,716
Location
Grange Moor
Your Mercedes
R171 SLK280, Smart R451, Land Rover 110 County SW, 997 C2S, R1250 GSA TE 40th, CBR600FP
I’ve now fixed this. The grey feed to fuse 3 comes, according to the wiring diagram, directly from the rotary headlamp switch. I extracted the switch, located the grey, cut it, and soldered a new 8amp wire to the switch end, threaded it through a convenient hole through the bulkhead behind the switch which comes out under the fuse box and terminated it at fuse 3. I still don’t know why the original grey failed as it goes straight in the loom at either end, but fail it had.
MB fitted some decomposing wiring insulation for awhile in the 90’s so it might have suffered with that.
 
OP
C

crt

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2005
Messages
137
Reaction score
10
Your Mercedes
'95 E300D estate, '16 Golf, '58 Unimog 404, '95 Defender CSW
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #5
Thanks. Interesting. For a 27 year old car, the electrical problems have been quite limited - this one with the lights, a melted heater fuse housing (switched circuit to an unused neighbouring housing), replace fuses with copper, intermittent radio feed (aftermarket end probably), and a shorting rear wiper (currently disconnected and awaiting replacement or further diagnosis and repair). Oh, and infra-red central locking control giving up, alongside door key not working, so just replaced with cheap key-less entry system, necessitating getting under rear seat and splicing various wires at the vacuum control unit.
 


As a member of ourMercedes Owners' club, you will enjoy numerous savings on an expanding range of services including, Insurance, Parts and Servicing, RAC Membership plus much more.MBOmembers can save around £200.00 a year. You can join from as little as £30.00 and start to enjoy these savings immediately. You receive our monthly magazine and free classified ads when you decide to trade up a model.
Top Bottom