w124 (still) reaches 100 degrees in traffic

d215yq

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When stuck in traffic my w124 e220 temp gauge rises to 100 degrees in this hot weather.

With help from this forum, I've already flushed the radiator and had the local garage check if the viscous coupling was strong enough (they said it was OK). The radiator flush improved the situation a bit but the temp gauage can still reach 100 degrees in heavy traffic on a hot day.

The thermostat seems to work ok and opens at 85 degrees from cold and radiator looks perfect - no rust on it. The water pump seems to be working as when the engine is started when hot the temperature quickly goes down as the water circulates around the engine.

Therefore with all these working OK am I worrying about nothing as the handbook seems to suggest that "in high ambient temperatures the water temperature may reach 120 degrees and the system is designed to cope with this" or is there somethign else I should check/recheck?

Cheers,

Ben
 

colechelle

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100 degrees in this weather isnt nothing to worry about!!!! my derv runs at that every day, summer or winter, why do you think theres a fault???
 

dougjoy

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I think Ben is like me. I changed my thermostat a few days ago and am always checking the guage. Prior to the change the temp guage stayed at slightly under the 80 mark and went to slightly over in heavy traffic. Now it is always slightly above 80 and rises to 90 ish in traffic.

I will need time to get used to the new readings and to ensure that all is OK with my workmanship.
 
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d215yq

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100 degrees in this weather isnt nothing to worry about!!!! my derv runs at that every day, summer or winter, why do you think theres a fault???

Thanks, just my previous cars have never gone above 90 degrees, and have stayed at constant temps regardless of traffic/hot weather.

Immediately after the engine is switched off the temperature gets hotter as the water pump stops when you cut the engine, so the block could reach a bit over 100 degrees, but if thats not going to cause any engine damage then I shall stop worrying!

I'm probably over cautious as I know a mate who had to have a £2000 new engine on his car for the sake of a £30 new thermostat, would feel a bit of an idiot if that happened to me!
 

jibcl500

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I think your worrying about nothing, my old 230TE gets very hot and I do get a little concered as its old and has 200k on the clock, If stuck in trafic I sometimes turn the heaters on to get some heat away fromt he engine, not great for me but if it saves the engine then so be it.


I wouldnt worry.

jib
 
G

Geezer

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Therefore with all these working OK am I worrying about nothing as the handbook seems to suggest that "in high ambient temperatures the water temperature may reach 120 degrees and the system is designed to cope with this"

Cheers,

Ben

You've answered your own question! :p
 

and11

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Thermostats

I remember reading somewhere that some thermostats open and close and different temps from others?? perhaps ur raplacement has differ ratings
 
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Bolide

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I would strongly suspect that the radiator is blocked / silted up. Try checking the whole area of it with an infra-red laser thermometer - or your hand - for cold spots

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
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d215yq

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I would strongly suspect that the radiator is blocked / silted up. Try checking the whole area of it with an infra-red laser thermometer - or your hand - for cold spots

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

Thanks Nick, I had the radiator flushed a couple of months ago, but I'll recheck if there are cold spots next time I drive it. Is it possible a radiator looking ok from the outside is so sludged up on the inside that it cant be flushed but needs to be replaced?
 

IAN MAC

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Is it possible a radiator looking ok from the outside is so sludged up on the inside that it cant be flushed but needs to be replaced?

In a word ..YES

Or take it apart and clean it from there, ( easier than you probably think):wink:
 

Parrot of Doom

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Was an E300TD, now a Lexus LS400
I was sat in traffic for 3 hours the other day. 3 ****** hours, and I couldn't turn the engine off as the traffic was moving slowly enough to make it impossible.

After about 30 minutes the duovalve packed up on one side. It does that when it gets really hot.

After about 90 minutes, the temperature gauge was bouncing around the 100 mark. The viscous coupling is shot on mine, so I just opened the windows and turned the heaters and fan full on.

After about 2 hours, the engine wanted to idle at 2000rpm. I think maybe because the throttle pot was roasting hot, who knows.

Then, every time the auxilliarly fans came on, the belt chirped. The longer I sat in the traffic, the louder the chirps got.

I was a bit relieved to get to the motorway, 5 minutes later the car was fine. You could visibly hear the engine go "AHHHHHHhhhh" with the relaxing influx of air to the engine :)
 

supercharger

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i had a similar situation with my w126 v8 about 12 months ago tried all the avenue,s you seem to have gone down but i still wasnt happy. i decided a new rad was the answer. fitted it and the engine does not get any hotter than 60 degree,s now no matter what the weather or the driving conditions. i have even let it idle for 2 hours and not a nats over 60. some might say thats too low but im a lot happier.

supercharger
 

kth286

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supercharger

you now need to change your thermostat for a new one as the engine will be at it's most efficient (more economical) at the correct higher temp.

Guys

I guess we have to ask ourselves from where is this 'sludge' coming from.

It is from all the various substances that the cooling system is made from:

cast iron (block)

alloy (head)

rubber (hoses)

plastic (coolant tanks/radiator)

etc etc

It is therefore very important that the coolant additive is ph neutral (not acidic and not alkaline).

To help in this matter I am a firm believer in only using the Merc coolant additve with de-ionised water as it is proven to be ph neutral.

The Merc product may cost a bit more than others, but a lot of research went into it before the spec was released to the supplier for the manufacture.

Other products may be too acidic and will gradually eat away at the passages that the coolant travels through and hence the release of material into the system (sludge), and then of course the expense of replacing components too early.

I am still on the original radiator at 165,000 miles.
 

JRH454

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Here in the United States we have 50 c degree weather and over heating is not unusual when climbing hills. Towing a caravan here with a Mercedes is out of the question. Mercedes has a habit of specifying undersized radiators
 

DREAMER NO2

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How was the viscouse fan checked ? use a rolled up news paper .Get car up to temp and push the news paper in the fan to try and stop it ...If you can stop it its junk Important mind your hand, and the radiator so you dont hurt your self or the radiator
 

Blobcat

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How was the viscouse fan checked ? use a rolled up news paper .Get car up to temp and push the news paper in the fan to try and stop it ...If you can stop it its junk Important mind your hand, and the radiator so you dont hurt your self or the radiator
New member posting on a 15 year old thread...
 

00slk

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I read the first 4 post and then saw jibcl500 o_O Then looked at the date.
I've done this a few times looking for information on Google, seen links and gone there. Then see it's very old posts and cars from yesterday when they were new :rolleyes:
 

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