W124 U shaped Iginition barrell removal tool doesn't work!

[penderb]

Hi Just had a go with a thin welding rod bent into u shape that fits barrell holes without any grinding down. This tool isn't working to release barrell.I've used lots of WD40 also.
Questions?

1. I'm turning key to position 1, which to me is circa 2 o'clock. Is this right?
2. Do you need much pressure on rod? as if I put any, skinny rod begins to bend,possibly not strong enough? I don't have access to haynes manual to see how rod is made.
Can someone give me exact details of what rod size I should be using to start with & what thickness I should grind down to? or point me to a thread with a detailed guide? I've done searches before posting this, but no luck.
3. What distance should rod go in? The skinny rod I'm using goes in about an inch on both sides of barrell.

Many thanks

Regards

Billy

 

[PRS]

Ignition barrell

I had the same problem, then used two allen keys, then it was simple very little pressure needed.

 

[penderb]

Hi Peter

Did you mange to get allen keys that actually fitted the two holes without any mods, or had you to grind them down? if you didn't grind, what size were the two allen keys?

Thanks

Billy

 

[PRS]

Billy, I did not need to mod the allen keys in any way, I do not remember the size but they need to be the largest ones thet will fit in the slot

 

[penderb]

Peter

Thanks for info. Will try the allen keys. I assume you push both keys into together, any hammering involved? what sort of distance does the allen keys need to go in before you feel resistance?, I ask because we made up the welding rod tip, both as a u-shaped tool, would,'t work, then we snapped u shaped tool in two to use seperately, to push both pieces in together, still no luck, welding rod was pretty strong too. Apologies for late reply, as I had some Internet connectivity problems.

Billy

 

[PRS]

Billy,
yes both together, do NOT use a hammer or any force, if you use the largest size allen keys that wil, fit in the slots and you have the key in the correct position you will be amazed how easy it is.

Good luck

 

[penderb]

Peter

I've just managed to remove the ignition key from the dodgy barrell, which was my original problem, key would not turn or come out of barrell.
As barrell would not remove using welding rod/allen key tip, I "attacked" key with copious amounts of WD40, much twisting, and, hey presto, out comes the key. This key was a copy, so now I'm using original key, all is well, but I suspect I need to change barrell before I run into some serious problems. Will continue to try and get barrell out at some stage, I'll keep working on the most suitable allen keys idea. Since I removed key, I now have the problem of the engine will not turn off, it keeps running even after key is removed!!!. I know how to "kill" it with the red lever on the injection pump, I've seen one or two posts suggesting it's some sort of vacuum pipe somewhere, I believe there's some attached to ignition. Could I have disturbed something while removing key??
Any one any thoughts.............
If it ain't one thing, it's another!!

Billy

 

[LNM]

Billy

Get a new ignition barrel from a MB dealer. You need to take the car to bits if you can't get the old one out with pins etc. There's another thread about this in the technical bit.

I was quoted £38 + vat for a new one + about 48 for the original. From a dealer.

Mine's stuck once like this but after a bit of fiddling (and me nearlypapping me breeks) it came free. As its currently not working (head gasket) I've not done much about it, but the next time I'm in Liverpool I'm getting a new barrel. As you say, if its not one thing its the other, but it'd be a ****er if it was somehting as easy to fix as this.

 

[penderb]

LNM

Your right, but knowing me I'll put in on the long finger & live to regret it!
On the point of the engine continuing to run after ignition is turned off,
I had the autobox reconditioned last week(see seperate post re "Autobox slipping in 4th"), as it turns out the vacuum pipe on the cut off solenoid on top of the injection pump was disconnected! Easy to spot once air box removed. Must have come apart during box re build. Some of these vacuum pipe connections on both the solenoid & the front of the engine we're starting to perish, so while I was at it, I replaced what I could. Also, while testing/tracing vacuum pipes back to vac box under rear seat, discovered one connection on vac box disconnected also, but while thinking about what could have been effected by this disconnection, couldn't think of what wasn't working in terms of vacuum assisted! & while I had seat out, discovered I had a third seatbelt in the back, both belt & it's connector were hidden under the seat all this time, well since I took ownership anyway, last May.

Billy