W126 tracking/steering wheel alignment

[salvatori]

Hi Eveyrone,

I`ve got a W126 (which had its front passenger alloy wheel badly curbed when it had gone for a service to the Stealership...wish that I had taken it to George Fraiser's place now because at the time I did not know about this forum or GF).

Upon recieving the vehicle the kerbed alloy was noticed and after kicking up a fuss I got the stealership to refurbish the alloy at their approved body shop). However, they did not agree to carry out the tracking or steering wheel alignment. I do not drive this car much at all and have noticed that the steering wheel star is not in the centre when I am driving the car in a straight line... and at times I have to steer the wheel to the right and back forth to keep it straight. The front tyres to seem a little worn too...

In order to rectfy the steering/wheel alignment of the car I need to take it to some wheel alignment/tracking specialist. Does anyone know a specialist in the Berkshire area - and should the steering wheel alignment be back to normal (with the three ponted star on steering wheel dead in the centre when driving in straight line) if they were to use some of computer equipment to carry out the wheel alignment process?

Also, I`ve now noticed that at times when I`m turining there is a strange noise comming from the area of the wheel that was previously damaged - someone said that it is probably the C.V. Joint that has gone? What is this joint and how much should it cost to repair and how?, and should it be carried out before the tracking/wheel alignment or can it wait?

Sorry that this post is a bit too .ong winded?

Kind Regards,

Salvatori

 

[sunil sood]

salvatori,

firstly, i would make sure that the tyre pressures were according to spec-look on the inside of the fuel filler cap-the tyre pressures should be on there on a sticker. uneven tyre pressure could cause wandering of the car.

there is a place in southall,middx which does computerised wheel alignment-there is probably a similar one in berks-ask a friend or your local mot station who may be able to help.

 

[Andy]

Hi

I would think that the problems you are experiecing where there before but you are now switched on to every little problem on the steering. Pulling to the left is common. As I have said in the past if its accompanied with excessive tyre wear then get the wheel alignment checked. Make sure the garage you take it too will carry out camber & castor adjustments as well otherwise very little will change.

You could try swopping the front wheels side to side. I have had some success whith this.


There are no CV joints on the front suspension. They are on the rear halfshafts. I would suspect the lower ball joint. Usually water gets inside the gaitor and causes a loud grating noise. (B\joint £19 and about 1.5hrs lab). But before you change the joint get it checked out to make sure that is what is causing the noise. As the top suspension arm could be causing a noise. But the ball joint is the most common. Especially if the noise is there when the steering wheel is turned.


Good luck


Andy @ www.mercedesservcing.com

 

[salvatori]

Thank you Sunil and Andy for replying to the post.

The tyre pressure is correct for the wheels. Just out of interest where abouts is this laser wheel alignment place in Southall, Sunil?

It?s a shame Andy that I`m not from anywhere near Brummie otherwise I would be using your expertise and know that my cars would be well looked after in good hands with somebody who does actually care about them and have vast knowledge. With some older models the stealerships no longer care about them as much or have a great deal of knowledge (plus they rip you off anyway).

One thing that puzzles me though Andy is that before the alloy wheel was curbed, the star on the steering wheel was pretty much located ?dead in the centre? whilst driving in a straight line (which is why I am so paranoid now?). Would the laser tracing automatically align the steering wheel to the centre again?

Also that ?grating? noise that you described about the front wheel when turning is spot on (usually with a full load of passengers) is noticeable then only. Assuming that it is the ball joint should I have that seen to before the tracking/wheel alignment, or can it wait until the noise gets worse or later in the future? In the mean time can it cause any further unnecessary damage/wear and tear?

Kind Regards,

Salvatori.

 

[salvatori]

Andy,

I forgot to mention that the Power Assisted Steering belt was also replaced at the service. Could that possibly have something to do with the fact that the car is pulling to the left and that I have to turn the steering wheel to the right (this is when the star on the steering wheel is not in the centre) when driving is straight line...

Salvatori

 

[sunil sood]

salvatori,

i would certainly have a faulty ball joint replaced ,if that was the problem before doing the wheel alignment .

the place in southall is called oldfield tyres&exhausts,at 119-112,
Norwood Road(tel no 0208-843-1794)

-they have a computerized 4 wheel alignment(not laser) machine.From my previous experience,the check is free but they can charge up to 100 pounds or more, if adjustments are needed.

the steeing wheel should centralise once the alignment is adjusted.

hope this helps.

 

[Andy]

Hi

With out knowing how hard the wheel was curbed. Then its hard to say if that would knock out the steering wheel. You could check the track rods and make sure they are not bent. But with these old 126's the steering box will have a little play in it. So the steering wheel may of been out before the incident and you only noticed once the wheel was pointed out to you. Just like if somebody has bumped your car. Was that small scratch really there before???


With regards to the ball joint. Then have it replaced before the wheel alignment is carried out.

If the company who carries out the wheel alignment locks the steering wheel in the straight ahead position when setting the track, then the steering wheel should be straight. Although on your model they can adjust this afterwards. The steering wheel is easily removable.


Hope this helps.

Regards

Andy @ www.mercedesservicing.com

 

[salvatori]

Thank you Sunil for the address of the wheel alignment place down Southall. I know Southall quite well and the next time I`m there I`l probably pop in to this place and get them to check the wheel alignment out. I now know of a wheel alignment/tracking specialist near me, but they charge just for inspection so the Southall place will come in handy to see if the geometry has been affected or not.

Good news is that I popped the car down to a garage today and after being placed up on the ramp they established that the ball joint has not been damaged and is fine.

Andy, I know that you are busy and want you to know that I appreciated all your expert advice/knowledge on the matter.

One more question for you please, Andy. My brother is considering buying a W126 280SE which is in immaculate condition and we went to see it today. We believe that everything is in order and he is ready to buy it. However, from the engine there is a clatter when it is running. We have been told that all 280SE M110 engines since new have this clatter as a characteristic and adjusting the valve clearance/tappets would not really make much difference. What is your opinion on the matter?

 

[Andy]

Hi

The 110 engine is a noisy engine. Its hard for me to say how noisy it should be with out listening to it. Adjusting the tappets doesn't make much difference. But it does if you know what you are listening for.

If the noise dosn't sound too harsh then I wouldn't worry.

But personally I would buy a 300SE with the 103 engine. A lot smoother and loads better on fuel.


Hope this helps

Regards

Andy @ www.mercedesservicing.com

 

[salvatori]

Thanx Andy.

What u say makes sense goin for the 103 engine which is alot smoother, but the ones that my bro has seen hav been a little bit shabby and no service history.

May be he sould wait, but his very keen on the 280SE that we went to see today and it was really nice (show room condition like my 500SE).

Regards,

Salvatori

 

[TreneryM]

Pulling left

I Had the same problem on my new C240 (2000)

They have just fixed the problem. They gave me many many excuses. All rubbish.

I even had an RAC report. I have been fighting Mercedes for 2 years. The support has been crap.

At last the problem is fixed. Tell your people to speak with Barry Gambrill, DaimlerChrysler Milton Keynes.

I have his phone number if you need it. He has fixed the same problem on other cars.

Mercedes of Newbury fixed mine

 

[talbir]

basic question - is the steering wheel the original wheel ?

If not, then it may be the case that the changed/aftermarket wheel has not been correctly aligned when returned to the column. The same applies if someone has removed the steering wheel to remove the instrument cluster and not reconnected the wheel to the shaft in the correct position.

If you remove the centre badge in the steering wheel, you will see a 10mm allen bolt. If this is loosened fairly easily, then someone in the past has removedthe wheel - and maybe they haven't aligned it properly when re-fitting. If the steering wheel has never been removed, then that 10mm bolt will NOT loosen easily, as it leaves the factory with a certain grade of Loctite applied and will not shift too easy, even with a 'Snap-On' tools power bar !

Check you tracking first and if tracking is ok and steering is still out of line, then you simply need to remove steering and rotate the wheel two or three notches on the column, until the vehicle drives straight with the steering straight.

If you have an airbag, then you'll need to remove the RED MOLEX connector, located under the passenger dash panel. Then remove the two Torx screws behind the steering wheel to lift out the airbag. Then proceed as before. Disconnecting the battery is not enough - the airbag control module is still energised and will activate the airbag even if the battery is removed. You must remove the red SRS connector before removing airbag.

Talbir

 

[talbir]

basic question - is the steering wheel the original wheel ?

If not, then it may be the case that the changed/aftermarket wheel has not been correctly aligned when returned to the column. The same applies if someone has removed the steering wheel to remove the instrument cluster and not reconnected the wheel to the shaft in the correct position.

If you remove the centre badge in the steering wheel, you will see a 10mm allen bolt. If this is loosened fairly easily, then someone in the past has removedthe wheel - and maybe they haven't aligned it properly when re-fitting. If the steering wheel has never been removed, then that 10mm bolt will NOT loosen easily, as it leaves the factory with a certain grade of Loctite applied and will not shift too easy, even with a 'Snap-On' tools power bar !

Check you tracking first and if tracking is ok and steering is still out of line, then you simply need to remove steering and rotate the wheel two or three notches on the column, until the vehicle drives straight with the steering straight.

If you have an airbag, then you'll need to remove the RED MOLEX connector, located under the passenger dash panel. Then remove the two Torx screws behind the steering wheel to lift out the airbag. Then proceed as before. Disconnecting the battery is not enough - the airbag control module is still energised and will activate the airbag even if the battery is removed. You must remove the red SRS connector before removing airbag.

Talbir