W163 2005 ml270 cdi no kick down

Mart000

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Hi everyone I've just purchased a ml270 it has no kickdown..I've checked for vac leaks and the actuator is working ok..when I took it of today the turbo arm what the actuator rod connectors to seems very slack!!!!!...when running it does change the note of the turbo when moved though...but doesn't go in sync with the revs could this be intake side swirl flap rods ?? It has no fault codes showing..I did find a split in the big hose that goes straight onto the turbo does anyone know the part number please ? Also what's the best way to check the swirl flaps please ?
 

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Hello and welcome

Revs are restricted in neutral by engine management by design
 

vincentfishing

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Take your engine covers off , shine a torch between egr valve and underside of inlet and you can see the front two (i think)swirlflap connectors and bar, if oily then swirl flap seals are leaking, if worn you can lift them up with screwdriver where they start to drop,
Vacuum leak on egr pipework will stop turbo and not show on dash as fault
where are you located?
 
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Mart000

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It is very oily on that side of the block so I have an issue there somewhere..I have only just bought it like I said I have the engine covers of at moment but but it's very restricted in right side of block from above.. I have a funny feeling its swirl flaps issue.. or the turbo arm as it seems to move very easy ..based in dunstable beds
 

vincentfishing

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It is very oily on that side of the block so I have an issue there somewhere..I have only just bought it like I said I have the engine covers of at moment but but it's very restricted in right side of block from above.. I have a funny feeling its swirl flaps issue.. or the turbo arm as it seems to move very easy ..based in dunstable beds
swirlflaps leaking aren't going to cause turbo loss, or it didn't on mine, as for turbo arm moving easily no experience of that
 

joderest

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You may not have "kickdown" due to get home mode, which will limit power.
Have you checked all the vacuum lines to the activator, sometimes they can become detached.
I know you say no faults showing, but a session on a STAR machine might be called for to find out the issue. Unless the swirl flaps have failed, or the motor failed they will still work even if leaking past the seals.
You do not say how many miles it has covered.
Did you buy from dealer or private, if from dealer take it back as will have three months warranty at least.
 

penton

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Have you checked the kickdown switch under the pedal? They can get stuck down. I had to replace the one on my W163.
 
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Mart000

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Had a look today at swirl flap rod it moves back and forth by hand and is connected to motor as I can hear that but the swirl flaps are lose as a goodun...I think that's were all the oil is covering the block from aswell by the looks of it..is there any guides on removal and replacement attall ?
 
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Mart000

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You may not have "kickdown" due to get home mode, which will limit power.
Have you checked all the vacuum lines to the activator, sometimes they can become detached.
I know you say no faults showing, but a session on a STAR machine might be called for to find out the issue. Unless the swirl flaps have failed, or the motor failed they will still work even if leaking past the seals.
You do not say how many miles it has covered.
Did you buy from dealer or private, if from dealer take it back as will have three months warranty at least.
I've checked the vac hoses all seem ok and the actuator on turbo is ok aswell..
 

joderest

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Swirl flap repair or removal is a long job involving removal of inlet manifold.
Vincent fishings post has a good pictured explanation of what is involved.
 

vincentfishing

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Had a look today at swirl flap rod it moves back and forth by hand and is connected to motor as I can hear that but the swirl flaps are lose as a goodun...I think that's were all the oil is covering the block from aswell by the looks of it..is there any guides on removal and replacement attall ?
Takes about 2.5hrs to get off,not too hard if your competent diyer, but its easier to get a secondhand inlet manifold and delete the flaps on it ready to put straight onto yours when you get it off, unless you have alternative transport and can take your time doing it all, you don't need special any tools and they are all pretty standard, there are are a couple of 'how toos',while your at it delete the egr with the resistor mod (cheapest) or emulator off ebay £50 that's simple to fit.
 
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Mart000

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Take your engine covers off , shine a torch between egr valve and underside of inlet and you can see the front two (i think)swirlflap connectors and bar, if oily then swirl flap seals are leaking, if worn you can lift them up with screwdriver where they start to drop,
Vacuum leak on egr pipework will stop turbo and not show on dash as fault.
I managed to get a hooked screwdriver under the front swirl flap and it moved up a good bit and they feel very slack in going to strip it at weekend and go fron there
 

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