W210 Central locking intermittant fault

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The wipers, heated rear wind and indicators are fed from the multi function N10 relay, this is activated from the ign switch, and not wired to the locking or alarm.

Are we talking 124 or 210 here,,though the above still applies to both
 
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mtinlin

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Hi, Here is the link to the specific car:-

http://www.detali.ru/cat/OEM_MB0.asp?WDB=wdb2100372a019200

I hope that helps. I find it difficult to navigate that site to say the least!

I have both flip out keys for the car which is a 210 model (early) and the fault exists with both.
If the N10 relay feeds from the ignition then since the central locking fault occurs prior to putting the key in the ignition I still favour a remote/alarm fault. Any idea if this is likely to be a car with a Scorpion alarm?
Also I seem to recall that there is some proceedure for syncronising (not sure of the terminology) the key to the car. Does anyone have the instructions - my handbook is for a different model!
Cheers.
 

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Not Scorpian as they had their own key fobs
 
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mtinlin

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Thanks again chaps. So this is a MB remote/alarm system then. Was this the type fitted by the dealer in the UK? I could not find any reference to the alarm system on the russian site.
Cheers.
 
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mtinlin

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Thanks Television. That would be good. I am still not getting any joy from the russian site pages.
 

Dec

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Alarm http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=210037&A=00000&M=111970&GA=722440&VIN=2100372a019200&CT=F&cat=45P&SID=82&SGR=530&SGN=25
137 is the alarm unit I think there is anti-towing sensor which can be turned on/off at dash switch,

122 or 128 seem to be internal motion sensors which can be turned on/off, not sure how that is done (you would turn off internal motion sensors if you wanted to leave a dog in car but still have the alarm armed)

Something has gotten wet/rusty/ bad connection somewhere? Causing what appear to be separate faults. Any thing like fuses and there holders, relays etc need to be checked out.

An interesting post from another forum;
“There is no K26 relay that I can find on the SL280 R129 1994 model but I have finally had a Eurika moment this evening on my wiper/washer/indicator/high beam flash Relay issue. I once again had the wiper problem on a journey this last weekend that left me with NO wipers, washers, high beam flash and of an occasion no indicators either... I took the N10/2 relay out and apart once more an renewed the soldering in paricular on all of the train track connector positions / pin to board positions and replaced the part...all to no avail.

What did work, and I had checked the fuses before, was to get a screwdriver (engine on, wiper in position one on the stalk) and tap the top of each fuse followed by each holder top and back to the fuse once more (several times on each fuse all the way down the block) in a downward fashion. At fuse 8 the wipers started to work once more, I continued all the way down through all the fuses with this motion and when I sat back into the car...heh presto...all functions work as they should once more. No N10/2 purchase required thankfully because it is a mother of a price to purchase.

I am not saying that this will fix all issues with the relay but I seem to be lucky and it might help someone with a similar problem. Time to tap the fuses was about 2 mins and it is worth trying before you spend the 2 mins unscrewing the relay compartment.:rock:”….
Source http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/electronics/68591-windscreen-wiper-relays-r129-sl500-1994-a.html#post808725

If a relay is working it can be heard to click however there could be a poor connection going into the relay, try what your man above says and turn on ignition and put wiper to intermittent setting, listening from outside the car, with the bonnet open, you should hear a click every 5 or so seconds as the wiper tries to make a sweep, this will help you to locate the relay by sound, if you are in a quiet place.
When you locate the relay, with the wiper still turned on , try wigging/taping it to see what happends.

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What did work, and I had checked the fuses before, was to get a screwdriver (engine on, wiper in position one on the stalk) and tap the top of each fuse followed by each holder top and back to the fuse once more (several times on each fuse all the way down the block) in a downward fashion. At fuse 8 the wipers started to work once more, I continued all the way down through all the fuses with this motion and when I sat back into the car...heh presto...all functions work as they should once more. No N10/2 purchase required thankfully because it is a mother of a price to purchase.

Dec


In a similar vein, I have (on a previous vehicle) had relays that did not seat properly, and have resorted to slightly bending the pins to cause them to make a better contact with the holder. At one point, for some odd reason, i could only get my rear wash/wipe to work by pulling the appropriate relay half way out of the holder, as i suspect the metal within the socket of the realy holder was corroded or covered in 'ver de gris' that prevented a good contact being made.

This was not on any sort of Mercedes, but you get my drift.
 
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Thanks again. I tried putting the ignition and wiper on and then checked over the fuse boxes. Unfortunately with no result.
I still can't relate my car to the diagrams on the russian site. The rear view mirror and the drivers door lock are a part of the alarm/imobiliser system and I do not see them in the layout. Also I don't think mine has the tow-away protection. My car has a separate alarm siren in the engine compartment. I have a key to tun off the sound.
 

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This is what comes up for my car under ELETRICAL/BURGLARY ALARM SYSTEM AND INFRARED CLOSING SYSTEM, I think we both have after market alarms fitted and what comes up for both of us on the Russian site is an optional extras, what’s in that link doesn’t relate to my car either.
My alarm is a Scorpion, under bonnet, was fitted by dealer and not in factory, yours is probably similar.

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I have sent you the key re set instructions
 
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mtinlin

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At the moment I am still inclined to suspect the alarm/imobiliser system. The car is booked in for a local MB specialist on Friday so we will see what they say.
 
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The solution

Mermedic in Woking have solved this one by replacing the comfort relay. Parts cost was around £200 plus VAT. I had the front springs replaced at the same time as they were sagging and potentially the cause of a camber problem identified by the local tyre shop. They fitted a supplied camber correction bolt package and I will take the car back to the tyre shop to reset the steering geometry. Total cost £600 including VAT - ouch!
Thanks for the help - hope this is useful.
 

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