w210 e320 c.d.i parking brake

[sms78]

hey guys gonner change the discs and pads all round on the beast this weekend . I also wanner change the parking brake pads which i got as well in a form of a kit ( with springs/bolts/ratchets) . What i want to know is what is the best way of taking the parking brake pads off and what do you need to adjust them afterwards? Also whats the best lube to use on the ratchets etc ? copper grease? Ive done this sort of braking arrangement on a volvo before but these look slightly different . Any help would be gratefully recieved

 

[television]

The parking brakes are shoes, as used by non disc brakes years ago. They are self adjusting.

You will have to remove the caliper by removing the 2 bolts on the rear, and place the caliper on something the right height. It would pay you to lever back the pads a little so that they clear the ridge on the disc.

By tuning round the disc and looking through the large hole in the drum part, at the top you will see the ratchet adjuster, you put a screwdriver in the hole and with an up and down movement rotate the ratchet to back off the parking brake shoes so that the disc will come off once you have taken off the single screw holding it in place.
You must make a note of the holes used for the springs holding the shoes in place.


http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GA=722.626&CT=F&cat=65S&SID=42&SGR=045&SGN=02


A good post here on the very car

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=26764

 

[turbopete]

to add to what Malcolm says, when re-fitted they can also be adjusted up on the ratchet in the same manner as to loosening them. adjust the shoes till the disc etc cant be turned. this centralises the shoes. make sure you turn the disc periodically as you tighten them. one the disc it locked solid, then proceed to slacken the adjuster off untill the disc can be turned freely and, when both discs are free, the parking brake should ratchet around 4-5 clicks on earlier cars and about 7 on later cars with the finer ratchet. this gives the brakes a base setting to work from and the shoes fit to the drum more evenly, as the cable doesnt try to adjust the slack from the brakes, pulling the lever out. by pre adjusting them, they will grip better with less force, and any wear will be even along the length of the shoes!

 

[sms78]

Thanks guys . Also when you take the parking shoes off do you have the hand break on or off . Likewise when ive put it all back together and go to adjust it with the screwdriver in the ratchets do you put the handbrake on inside the car or leave it off ? Am i right in that you leave the handbrake on at all times with the handbrake pedal in the car pushed as far as it will go ?

 

[sms78]

Sorry just read through the diy post by parrot of doom . I now understand! thanks guys

 

[television]

As the hand brake is off and should be out of park, do take care and use axle stands so that the car cannot roll.

The handbrake is off for all of the work, both taking down and putting back together

 

[turbopete]

always use axle stands and wheel chocks where posible each time you jack the car up to work under it or remove wheels to work under the wing etc. safety 1st. every time. 15 mins added to a job could save a limb. or even your life!

 

[sms78]

Thanks gents

 

[sms78]

well did the brakes yesterday and wasnt too bad . Put proper mercedes pads and disks on this time see how long they last . Hope they last twice as long beacuse they cost twice as much lol Was a bit surprised that the rear disk pads were made by tarox . Was a bit ****ed off because they are cheaper from german and swedish so ive proabaly just paid for a mercedes box unless they make them slightly better fot the merc dealers Anyway thanks again for the advice from the people on here . Also the hardest bit of the job was to remove the storage paint on the discs took f@@*in ages! I think they should have painted the w210 in that paint then it would probably last 100 years without rusting