W210 self levelling / diagnosing the fault

w210inSpain

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E300 TD 1999 3.0L
Hi, I'm new to this forum, and hoping someone may be able to help with this.
I have a 1999 w210 e300td, bought with non-working self levelling.
I used to work at MB but only up to 1997, so my knowledge of this car isn't what it should be!
The earlier systems had a dedicated pump on the engine, on this model is it combined with the PAS pump?
If so, is it possible for the PAS to work perfectly and have a fault on the suspension side? i.e if the fluid ran low, would it not damage both systems?
Also, I can't see an obvious leak, unless it was cleaned up before I bought the car!
I took it to a dealer here in Spain, and their diagnosed has completely confused me!! I can understand their wanting to replace both accumulators, but they have quoted also for 2 pumps! a left and a right??
I am hoping someone can just clarify this for me, as now having ms I can't climb around under the car as I used to a few years ago!

Many thanks in advance, Pete.
 

230K

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E300TD/1998/3.0 Diesel
Hi

I would say the pumps he talks about would be your rear struts (look like shock absorbers).

230K
 

type49

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One, tandum pump fitted (PAS + level control). Wouldn't like to try & diagnose without knowing pump pressure first I'm afraid.
 
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w210inSpain

w210inSpain

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E300 TD 1999 3.0L
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Thanks 230K, it might be what he meant, as the quote is in Spanish and without part numbers, although he used the word bomba which is pump.
Thanks type49, If it is definately one pump it reduces the quote by £400! I take it if I crack off one of the accumulator pipes it'll tell me if the pump is working or not?

Any other suggestions would be gratefully received.

Pete.
 
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w210inSpain

w210inSpain

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Originally from Swindon, Wiltshire, now live in Sp
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E300 TD 1999 3.0L
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Just in case anyone else has a similar problem I thought I'd post an update.

As I was driving the car back to the uk a neighbour helped me get under the car and have a look. We got the car fairly high and sat in on blocks so that all the weight was still on the wheels.

I disconected the link rod between the rear anti-roll bar and the valve. Started the engine, then slowly worked the arm on the valve up and down. To my surprise the car lifted 3 or 4 inches, and then lowered. Superb!! Why couldn't the dealer here in Spain do that?!?!?!

Anyway, I checked the ride height of the car, adjusted the length of the connecting rod, and took the car for a short run. Then with the car on level ground, loaded the back of the car with concrete blocks. Started the engine and watched the car return to its correct height!!!

So, 2000 euros saved, and only a few hours out in the road and it was fixed.

Good job as we covered 3700kms driving back to the uk, and loaded the car to the roof on the return trip. And guess what, the car behaved itself perfectly.

Pete.
 

type49

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Good result:D Strange how it was so far out in the first place:confused: There is a 4mm hole in the arm which should line up with a hole in the valve ( in an ideal world) You would put a drill through both & adjust the arm, unless something is bent, it should never move.
 

hmang

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Good result:D Strange how it was so far out in the first place:confused: There is a 4mm hole in the arm which should line up with a hole in the valve ( in an ideal world) You would put a drill through both & adjust the arm, unless something is bent, it should never move.

should these holes line up with the wheels on the ground or off?

engine running or not?
 

type49

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Engine running, car on level ground (or an MOT type ramp to make it easy)
 

hmang

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Engine running, car on level ground (or an MOT type ramp to make it easy)

my holes are not aligned.......hmmmmm

the arm on the valve is extended to max adustment but the hole stops well short of its mate on the valve body.

the rear end sits much higher now

fitted new acumulators ...still the`same ride height, and the suspension has always felt (too) very hard. any ideas??


210 avantgarde est
 


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