W210 steering setup

[Parrot of Doom]

Does anyone have a link to a description of the design and operation of the steering on a W210? Particularly any parts that wear over time, and need replacement.

I'm still trying to track down this wheel balance issue that comes and goes, and also I get a fair bit of wheel wobble when braking sometimes - but the discs and pads are all new. Slamming the anchors on from high speed seems to cure it, but the brake pedal doesn't pulse - which is leading me to suspect wear on the steering.

 

[television]

Does anyone have a link to a description of the design and operation of the steering on a W210? Particularly any parts that wear over time, and need replacement.

I'm still trying to track down this wheel balance issue that comes and goes, and also I get a fair bit of wheel wobble when braking sometimes - but the discs and pads are all new. Slamming the anchors on from high speed seems to cure it, but the brake pedal doesn't pulse - which is leading me to suspect wear on the steering.

I can sort some out for you Wed. I think the wobble is a faulty brake disc, I have the same on the V70R since I replaced them, as you say it is not always there, and a hard brake can take it away, the pedal does not pulse, though the wheels shake.

Malcolm

 

[Parrot of Doom]

I can't work out if its front or rear - I think its a mix of both, but the brake pedal seems fine and the discs look ok.

Just wondered if there was a dampening mechanism within the steering assembly that needed replacement.

 

[kth286]

It's likely the hubs was not wire brushed before the new discs were put on, and you have some dirt behind an area of the disc.

The disc is therefore not sitting flat against the hub, and will cause problems like you have.

Just sloppy workmanship - they need to be removed and after cleaning the hubs properly, refitted..

 

[television]

It's likely the hubs was not wire brushed before the new discs were put on, and you have some dirt behind an area of the disc.

The disc is therefore not sitting flat against the hub, and will cause problems like you have.

Just sloppy workmanship - they need to be removed and after cleaning the hubs properly, refitted..

Good point,but not in my case, but I do have dial gauges and I will check for run out.

Malcolm

 

[Parrot of Doom]

The hubs were clean, I did them myself with a scraping blade and a wire brush to remove any cack.

 

[230K]

Hi Parrot

The front wishbone inner bushings when shot can cause wheel shimmy between 50 & 60 mph, it is documented on the Diesel Discussion Forum in the USA that you visit. Other than that bottom ball joints, wheel bearings, track rod ends, track rod inner ball joints are all worth checking.

230K

 

[Parrot of Doom]

The control arm bushings are the ones I'm most fearful of I'll check the rest thanks.

 

[Parrot of Doom]

I can sort some out for you Wed. I think the wobble is a faulty brake disc, I have the same on the V70R since I replaced them, as you say it is not always there, and a hard brake can take it away, the pedal does not pulse, though the wheels shake.

Malcolm

Found anything Malcolm?

If it helps, the wheel wobble only happens when I brake from around 40mph and below. At 70mph theres no wobble when braking all the way down to 0. Odd.

 

[Sprint'n'Go]

Hi Parrot, this sound vaguely familiar, perhaps it is something to do with Manchester? Have you a link to the american forum that 230K mentions?

Is it a shake through the car or the steering wheel.

230K, the wheel shimmy you describe sounds like a promising lead worth investigating. would this be felt through the car or the steering?

All this sounds like it might be relevant to my problems as covered in this post - http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=23161

 

[230K]

Hi there

Try this linky

http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156048&highlight=shimmy

230K

 

[Parrot of Doom]

Yeah, I'm pretty certain now it can't be wheel balance. 2 sets of wheels, 2 sets of tyres, 3 balances, no way can they all be out of true.

LCA bushings isn't something I want to do myself. Its just too big a job, I'd have to sort out spring compressors, some kind of press, it would be a bit of a nightmare tbh.

Thats why I'm trying to eliminate anything else (track rod ends, any kind of steering input device that wears etc), but I think everything is leading to me taking it to the local indie (Greenvale) and having them sort it.

 

[Parrot of Doom]

Slightly related, but how many 'bounces' would you say is appropriate before replacement of the shocks is in order?

I can get quite a rhythm going on mine by pushing down at each corner. Its elegance spec, with the tall springs. If I push hard down on a corner, it'll bob a bit past its settling point before returning. Its not exactly like that Caddy in Top Gear, but its certainly a lot more wishy washy than other cars I've owned. Mileage is 179,000 and its 10 years old this year, original shocks.

 

[RFdesigner]

If I push hard down on a corner, it'll bob a bit past its settling point before returning. Its not exactly like that Caddy in Top Gear, but its certainly a lot more wishy washy than other cars I've owned. Mileage is 179,000 and its 10 years old this year, original shocks.

That sounds about right.

My old cavalier and the old 124 both did this, if it goes past centre a second time I'd be worried though.

Derek

 

[television]

Shocks can fail in two ways, by pushing the car down on one corner shows a rough over all guide but does nothing to test the short higher frequency movents on rough roads.

We are very backwards in this country, In Sweden on the MOT, built into the ramp is a shaking device that takes hold of the wheel and shakes it up and down at a very fast rate to test them.

Malcolm

 

[Blobcat]

Shocks can fail in two ways, by pushing the car down on one corner shows a rough over all guide but does nothing to test the short higher frequency movents on rough roads.

We are very backwards in this country, In Sweden on the MOT, built into the ramp is a shaking device that takes hold of the wheel and shakes it up and down at a very fast rate to test them.

Malcolm

I agree, a simple test is if you can get someone to drive your car whilst you follow it / drive past it. You can then see if the wheels are oscillating wildly. The number of cars I see on the motorway like this never ceases to amaze me.

 

[television]

I agree, a simple test is if you can get someone to drive your car whilst you follow it / drive past it. You can then see if the wheels are oscillating wildly. The number of cars I see on the motorway like this never ceases to amaze me.

You right Blobcat, I have heard this before, a good way to check.

Malcolm

 

[50sflash]

Bet your bottom dollar its the brake discs, we have had this were people have fitted what we call My Mums happy shopper brake discs, What make of discs & pads did you use? & like some of the guys say it is very important that the hubs are spotlessly clean prior to installing new discs, Another problem we have seen is a sticking caliper very slightly holding the pads to disc once hot, Recommend dial gauge test. Ps Brembo discs for the 210 are spot on trouble free. John

 

[Parrot of Doom]

OEM discs on the front, I don't know whats on the rear. I think I'll replace the rears anyway.

In all honesty I think the problem is that the rears are slightly warped, and the front lower control arm bushings are shot. I think probably the rear bearings want changing as well.

How easy are the rear bearings to change compared to the fronts, one of which I have already done?

 

[Parrot of Doom]

Hmmm.

Anybody who has ever had a car with a worn out UJ on the steering column will know this problem.

The other day I was braking to a halt from a reasonable speed down a slip road, and I actually felt the steering wheel, as it wobbled during braking, 'knock' at the limit of the wobble - just once or twice, but enough.

So something on the front suspension or steering is wearing down enough for it to start hitting a limit, or knocking against metal.

God damn this weather, its chucking it down and I want to get under the car with a pry bar and find out what it is