W210 Suspension Knock

[davidash]

I have a 1999 E280 Avantgarde V6 with 147000k on the clock. Despite having just about the entire front suspension replaced and the steering rack re-done, I have an irritating knock from the front suspension. I would describe it as a "klocking" sound. It is just about continuous when travelling over cobbled paving. The steering rack people tell me that it is worn teeth on the steering rack and that it is a common problem with BMW's and Merc's. They also say it is nothing to worry about. Right!
Has anyone had a similar problem or does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[television]

Its often the roll bar drop links, easy to check

 

[Parrot of Doom]

I had the same problem, 2 anti roll bar drop links, less than a tenner each.

If it is the steering rack, there is one on Ebay going cheap right now:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mercedes-W210...ryZ10398QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[Matt_EClass]

Apologies for hijacking the thread, but, Television.......How do I check the anti roll bar drop links, as I also have some slight knocking from the front suspension.

Thanks

 

[hmang]

Apologies for hijacking the thread, but, Television.......How do I check the anti roll bar drop links, as I also have some slight knocking from the front suspension.

Thanks

Matt, in my experience you can muck about for ages checking and wiggling but the rubber bushes don't give much away unless the're completely toasted.

for £20 just change them and 99% of the time it'll sort your front end knock

 

[Matt_EClass]

Thanks HMANG I will have a look tomorrow, if its not to wet - Is it a fairly easy job, changing these bushes?

regards

 

[Parrot of Doom]

They're so cheap you don't have to replace the bushes, you just change each link in turn. I've not done them myself but it looks to be a very simple job. You could probably do it without even removing the wheel.

 

[hmang]

i'd remove the wheel... and the anti roll bar too.
the only way i've found to remove and replace the drop links is bash them with a mallett and room to swing at them is very tight with the arb still attached to the car.

to remove,use plenty squirty lube inside the bush ...i.e between rubber and roll bar.

when refitting the new ones use rubber lube or vaseline on the roll bar and inner of the rubber.

make an accurate note of how the originals are fitted as on the 210 you have left and right handed drop links and the lower end is a top hat spacer. the flange end bears against the suspension arm.

 

[davidash]

The last post was most interesting and may be the answer to my problem. The MB agents replaced the drop links on my car but I am now not sure whether they fitted them correctly. As they are fitted, the lower end has the rubber bush "flange" on the outside - not aginst the suspension arm. Do you perhaps have a diagram against which I could check the fitting of the links? I really would appreciate it.

 

[BlackC55]

The last post was most interesting and may be the answer to my problem. The MB agents replaced the drop links on my car but I am now not sure whether they fitted them correctly. As they are fitted, the lower end has the rubber bush "flange" on the outside - not aginst the suspension arm. Do you perhaps have a diagram against which I could check the fitting of the links? I really would appreciate it.

As they are sided they can't fit them incorrectly.

 

[davidash]

Would you mind if I sent a photo for you to have a look at?

 

[BlackC55]

pm sent.............

 

[davidash]

This is the front right drag link. Look forward to your comment.
Many thanks

 

[hmang]

you can fit them on the correct side but still back to front which puts the top hat flange outwards....trust me ...i was that soldier!!

if you look carefully , with the flange outermost the leg of the drop link just fouls the suspension arm. wheras innermost, the 2-3mm of the flange gives clearance.



please correct me if i'm wrong on the fitting here guys as it looks like the mb techs do it differently me

 

[hmang]

This is the front right drag link. Look forward to your comment.
Many thanks

that looks ok ...the flange i was referring to is the metal flanged part of the top hat spacer down the middle of the rubber.

sorry to have been unclear

 

[davidash]

Thanks for that. As it seems that the drop links are ok, is it correct that the knock I am now hearing is from worn teeth on the steering rack?

 

[television]

This drop link thing with MB is an interesting one, they only charge £8 per link and seem to last 20-40k. Volvo charge £68 but they do not wear out.

Just food for thought

 

[hmang]

Thanks for that. As it seems that the drop links are ok, is it correct that the knock I am now hearing is from worn teeth on the steering rack?

check lower ball joints, track rods and track rod ends 1st

 

[davidash]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I took the car for a second opinion this morning. I asked them to check all of the ball joints, drop links and track rods - which they did. The original diagnosis was confirmed. Apparently the w202 and w210 Mercs and the BMW's all suffer from wear to the teeth of the gear shaft of the steering rack. Short of replacing the whole rack with a new one (about R20k here - the equivalent of about 1500 GPB), the only option is to find a second-hand rack in good condition.

 

[C240yaz]

This sounds similar to a problem on my C240 2000 X reg. 55K miles that has been bothering me for almost a year. (Now fixed). Knocking noise from front suspension only occurred when driving slowly over pot holes, bumps in the road etc. mailnly when cornering.

I have a 1 year MB used car warranty. Been in to MB 5 times previously, no fault found. Last week, with 3 weeks warranty remaining, I decided that I had to try one more time to get this problem seen to. This time, the foreman mechanic in MB Glasgow found the fault, after a road test. (so the service manager told me anyway)

Under the bonnet, where each front strut / shox is fitted, on the top mount (above each wheel arch) there was a visible 3 -4mm gap, between the strut top mount (metal part) and the rubber mount. Clearly visible before putting the car in for repair. When I got the car home, I gave it a good visual, and this gap was clearly closed. No free space at all between the rubber mount and steel bracket.

Not sure if it is a matter of tightening up the top shox nut to close this gap or / is a new bearing / spacer required. It is clear that the same rubber mount is still in situa, as you can see the wear indentations from previous fitted positions.

Anyone else any ideas / technical cure on this ?

Lee