W211 gearbox and engine mounts- how much to change?

[richardjohnbromley]

Hi,

Anyone know how much roughy it is to change engine and gearbox mounts (W211 320 Petrol), I've check through the service history and can't see any evidence of it being done? At idle the car in fine, but as you accelerate it's not a smooth as I would have expected, quite loud/harsh and can feel vibrations threw the floor. Not awful, but noticeable.

 

[sonic]

Tell us where you are, we could recommend a Mercedes independant garage.

 

[richardjohnbromley]

Tell us where you are, we could recommend a Mercedes independant garage.

Hi,

Rayleigh Essex.

Thank you

 

[Wighty]

Hi,

Rayleigh Essex.

Thank you

Alex Crow , Stowmarket did mine on the E320cdi for £100 Labour , I supplied the engine mounts and tranny mount i had sourced in an Autodoc sale for £100 (Lemforder) .
I never ask Alex for a quote , he works fast and charges a good rate .

 

[mioba]

How do you know its the mounts, has the gear box ever been serviced (you are of the non serviceable - sealed era).

Mounts are not a service item and touch wood the only I changes was a gbox in my W124

 

[richardjohnbromley]

The gearbox hasn't been serviced as far as I'm aware. Guess I'll just ask them you check the mounts when i goes in for a service.

 

[Wighty]

The gearbox hasn't been serviced as far as I'm aware. Guess I'll just ask them you check the mounts when i goes in for a service.

Where is it going for a service buddy ?

 

[mioba]

The gearbox hasn't been serviced as far as I'm aware. Guess I'll just ask them you check the mounts when i goes in for a service.

the box should be done every 35K (filter, oil, gasket and electric connector), even if not on the service shcedule, this is a known balls up by Mercedes. Having it done is very noticable.

PLEASE use a MB indy

 

[richardjohnbromley]

Where is it going for a service buddy ?

This place is down the road from me: https://www.germancarservices.co.uk/

 

[SA1]

Dear All,

I recently had a lot of vibration coming from beneath my W211 E320 2006 sedan. Particularly noisy changing through the gears at standstill. I changed the transmission mount but the noise was still there.
I had been advised on the forum that it could be the engine mounts, particularly as the vehicle has done 223k miles. I bought some Lemforder mounts which cost me about £100 the pair.
I enclose some pics to show direction I put a wrench attachment on the passenger side (hardest side) - possibly a wobble bar might have been better but I don't have one. I just used my angled wrench on the driver side 'hidden' bolt (top of engine). I struggled to get these top bolts off each side but eventually did it (I also tightened as much as I could on reassembly with the new mounts but could not get in to torque them).
Bottom bolts easier.
An amazing difference in noise level (at first I wondered whether I had turned the engine on, it was such a difference). Great to drive now.
Old mounts - driver side came out from the top, passenger side; dropped mount below car.
I noticed that their was a covering plate on the driver's side mount and absent for the passenger side (not sure if this is usual)
I made a mistake of not disconnecting my battery before I did this work and there was a spark when I removed the covering metal plate as it touched the corrugated stainless steel within the engine bay - so don't forget to disconnect battery (probably best to disconnect neg terminal of 9V (if you have SBC) and 12V batteries.
Not sure whether my mistake is coincidence but my alternator failed a week later and now I have to replace that.
Please see pics and hope this helps those who do this job.

All the best.

 

[mioba]

Good stuff and well done

 

[alexanderfoti]

Approx £400 ish with genuine mounts

Plate should be there on both sides.

 

[SA1]

Thanks for comments.

For anyone who changes the alternator, the attachment shows how I pulled up the alternator out from the LHS corner out of the hood of the vehicle.
I would take a couple of photos of the parts which you are intending to remove before starting the job, just so you can refer back to them when or if needed for quicker reassembly. Don't forget to disconnect battery.

Just remove the parts underneath the hood which are going to hinder the removal of the alternator or make it easier for removal eg. the nuts holding the heat shield (which you can see after removal of the air filter plastic compartment on the alternator side).

I used a breaker bar so I could get more torque to pull back the appropriate nut which allows easier removal of Serpentine belt. To the RHS of the nut is the place to insert an Allen key (about 5mm) to hold the tension for easier removal and refitting.