AMGeed
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2009
- Messages
- 9,321
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- 7,549
- Location
- Poole, Dorset
- Your Mercedes
- 1998/2001 W210 E280 x2 SOLD 2004 W211 E55 SOLD, 2014 E63 Biturbo SOLD .S204 C180K
Having bought the pads last year for my E63, I thought it time to change them over, so along with a few photos, here is my DIY guide to change them. Probably took around an hour and a half, most of which was jacking up the car, making it safe to work on, and cleaning the inside of the wheels whilst they were off.
Tools required were-: 13mm socket and ratchet, 4mm long drift punch, hammer, large flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, brake pad grease, brake pad spray cleaner, WD-40, brake fluid, new wear sensor and pads.
I cracked the bolts whilst the wheel was on the ground, then lifted the car on the jack, made it safe for working on and removed the wheel. Bonnet opened and the brake master cylinder cap removed.
![20210713_101134[1].jpg](https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/data/attachments/64/64121-04c8e4c4f2277ad23976cd18a596fb75.jpg "20210713_101134[1].jpg")
Next I removed the 13mm bolt that runs behind the steel spring plate that holds the pads in the caliper. Using a pair of pliers, release the brake pad wear sensor. It's just a plug that pulls out. Only one sensor and its on the drivers side, outside pad.
A quick spray of WD-40 on the pins and carefully, using a 4mm drift, punch the retaining pin out from the bottom of the retaining spring. This releases the tension on the spring and allows the top pin to be knocked out easily.
Pins and spring put aside for cleaning, use a wide bladed screwdriver to ease the pads back and allow the pistons to retract. Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. I had to draw about 20ml of fluid out to prevent it overflowing the cylinder. I could see the pads were badly worn, and pulling them out confirmed they were close to cutting the sensor. I got my moneys worth out of these! (33365 miles assuming they were the original ones)
![20210713_101631[1].jpg](https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/data/attachments/64/64122-920d7f4b9427025b8f5df8cbd28be525.jpg "20210713_101631[1].jpg")
![20210713_115304[1].jpg](https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/data/attachments/64/64123-9af6fb2bae5a726c46fad2f351384f2e.jpg "20210713_115304[1].jpg")
A good time to see the OEM Part #'s and Mercedes have a different number for each pad in the caliper? Notice also that both Brembo and Textar are stamped into the pad?
![20210713_120352[1].jpg](https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/data/attachments/64/64124-5de0339d2592ffbb7c8e6e0592dd6d6c.jpg "20210713_120352[1].jpg")
Replacing the pads is just a reversal of what has been done already. A new sensor was put into the outside pad and brake grease placed on the back of the pad and on the face of the anti squeal shim. The new TRW low dust pads fitted perfectly and the top pin was replaced first. A bit tricky lining up the pin, pads and pin holes, but after doing one, the other side was simple. You need to compress the steel plate to allow the bottom pin to be fitted. Again, easier on the second caliper.
![20210713_111227[1].jpg](https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/data/attachments/64/64125-c4faf0e2c80cef46b7cfd8b8243a36f5.jpg "20210713_111227[1].jpg")
![20210713_122936[1].jpg](https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/data/attachments/64/64127-38bae634dc168af37f5c660400d27212.jpg "20210713_122936[1].jpg")
Wheel refitted, car lowered and bolts torqued to 130nm. Checked the fluid again and pressed on the brake pedal a couple of times and the pedal stayed hard as expected. No air was allowed to enter this way and as the fluid was changed last Sept, I felt pushing newish fluid back into the master cylinder was easier than opening the bleed valves and possibly having a major problem if one sheared off. I've read of it happening here at a main dealer!
The other side went far quicker and after a quick run out, the brakes feel fine with zero squeal and a decent bite.
Finally, the TRW low dust pads I got from Autodoc for around £65 last year. They fit other models (CLS63 for one) and it remains to be seen how much dust they do produce.
An easy DIY that saved me around £200 at least in labour plus the satisfaction of knowing it was pretty simple to do.
![20210713_121852[1].jpg](https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/data/attachments/64/64126-fd73035b3a6873c76489273cf20d844c.jpg "20210713_121852[1].jpg")
Tools required were-: 13mm socket and ratchet, 4mm long drift punch, hammer, large flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, brake pad grease, brake pad spray cleaner, WD-40, brake fluid, new wear sensor and pads.
I cracked the bolts whilst the wheel was on the ground, then lifted the car on the jack, made it safe for working on and removed the wheel. Bonnet opened and the brake master cylinder cap removed.
Next I removed the 13mm bolt that runs behind the steel spring plate that holds the pads in the caliper. Using a pair of pliers, release the brake pad wear sensor. It's just a plug that pulls out. Only one sensor and its on the drivers side, outside pad.
A quick spray of WD-40 on the pins and carefully, using a 4mm drift, punch the retaining pin out from the bottom of the retaining spring. This releases the tension on the spring and allows the top pin to be knocked out easily.
Pins and spring put aside for cleaning, use a wide bladed screwdriver to ease the pads back and allow the pistons to retract. Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. I had to draw about 20ml of fluid out to prevent it overflowing the cylinder. I could see the pads were badly worn, and pulling them out confirmed they were close to cutting the sensor. I got my moneys worth out of these! (33365 miles assuming they were the original ones)
A good time to see the OEM Part #'s and Mercedes have a different number for each pad in the caliper? Notice also that both Brembo and Textar are stamped into the pad?
Replacing the pads is just a reversal of what has been done already. A new sensor was put into the outside pad and brake grease placed on the back of the pad and on the face of the anti squeal shim. The new TRW low dust pads fitted perfectly and the top pin was replaced first. A bit tricky lining up the pin, pads and pin holes, but after doing one, the other side was simple. You need to compress the steel plate to allow the bottom pin to be fitted. Again, easier on the second caliper.
Wheel refitted, car lowered and bolts torqued to 130nm. Checked the fluid again and pressed on the brake pedal a couple of times and the pedal stayed hard as expected. No air was allowed to enter this way and as the fluid was changed last Sept, I felt pushing newish fluid back into the master cylinder was easier than opening the bleed valves and possibly having a major problem if one sheared off. I've read of it happening here at a main dealer!
The other side went far quicker and after a quick run out, the brakes feel fine with zero squeal and a decent bite.
Finally, the TRW low dust pads I got from Autodoc for around £65 last year. They fit other models (CLS63 for one) and it remains to be seen how much dust they do produce.
An easy DIY that saved me around £200 at least in labour plus the satisfaction of knowing it was pretty simple to do.
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