Discussion in 'Electrics, Vacuum, Ignition and ECU' started by Quaver, Jan 19, 2018.
So there may be a clue here...are you the original owner since new?
im the 3rd owner and have had the car for a year now. im quite concerned this EML wont be cleared via my carly adapter because the same codes came up before and cleared without any problems but since i took it to wayne gates this EML just wont come off and has been on ever since i left wayne on thursday but because i was in a rush i didnt bother mentioning it to him and thought i could just clear it myself anyway. any ideas what these codes are?
Nope I’m afraid I’m not up on Carly codes sorry - I think it needs back on Star or someone with an icarsoft MB2 to clear
I suspect it’s had a remap at some point and that’s what’s causing it the wobbles. Get it back to Terry would be my advice
a fault code is a fault code.... the diagnostic kit is either capable or not. carly should be perfectly OK if you have the paid for version not the freebie trial
its more likely a proper fault that won't go away, you need to resolve the issue.... it could well be a session on STAR has broken some pikey coding (reverted to std, which isn't what you need) to bodge around the hacking when the DPF was illegally removed or the remap.
Just to be clear, has your car had it's Diesel Particulate Filter removed and a Re Map?
I'm don't think it has been remapped because it would have been mentioned when dpf was removed but could be wrong. It was running fine the couple months after it had the dpf removed So if that was the issue would it not likely to appear straight after it was done? Yeh I will try getting it back in to terry next week and see what they can do
It's weird because this adapter has never had issuers removing any fault and if there was really a issue it would just pop back up after I switch the engine off then back on again.
I feel like it's just too much of a coincidence that since I took it to terry this has happened. So I doubt anything serious has just so happened to appear unless it has been fiddled with. It's Possible but wouldn't a diagnostic just read code and clear code not software??
No it isn't. The kit needs to be capable of correct interpretation of the code.
I've said this many times - to read codes correctly a code reader has to be able to correctly interpret generic codes and manufacturer specific codes.
Those codes aren't even formatted correctly for OBD2 standards. Any code should format as an alpha prefix followed by 4 to 6 numbers generally in the format Annnn-yy where the yy is a sub code for additional information on the main code.
In this case Carly is clearly not interpreting the error correctly.
I don't follow your logic, a fault code is a fault code... whether that code is one you like or not, that's all it is.
If the diagnostics kit can "correctly interpret" that code is a different matter.
then your issue even if it can read it, is can it clear it correctly without causing other issues.... and this is the next bit
Modern cars can do lots of stuff down the ODBC port including reprogramming the complete software... using anything plugged in via this port could potentially do a lot of damage
there are differing comms protocols and the higher level changes "should need" more sophisticated kit to get at the real data, however there are some silly extras built in that can do more harm than good.
Adaption settings for injectors or auto boxes etc. can be wiped out by mistake. My kit can do Bugatti, Maybach, Maclaren, Porsche, RR and most other stuff.... but it also has a dangerous one button fix it mode.
I used this stupid button on My 335d when I first had it, after seeing all the normal irrelevant fault garbage a car collects. But using the one button fix wiped some adaption settings, removed the service history from the car and all the details about dealer locations from the sat nav !!! Luckily it was all written back by a dealer when I had the car software updated for a different issue.
The quality of the diagnostic BT or wireless adaptor used is also vital. Many think a ebay 10 quid job and a mobile phone should get dealer level coding. But it doesn't work like that. Many Chinese adaptors are fakes and don't communicate properly and can give up part way. I had such an issue on my bike coding a new front TPMS sensor, I could wipe out the old BT code but then the fake couldn't write the correct data back to the ECU for its replacement. I needed to buy a proper one for £60, it doesn't fail and communicates 10 times faster.
On your car I suspect some nasty extras where added in software to cope with the changes made. Its possible STAR undid these changes making it back to standard, which isn't what you want. If that's the case no session on any diagnostics kit can re do those enhancements.
Yes worth checking if DPF is not selected or whatever needs to be done to pretend your car was not fitted with a DPF from new. But many dealers don't really do this level of playing and don't understand the kit they have. And if the fix is re programming few will do it and if with something other than Merc kit safest is to go back to those guys
A fault code is stored in memory as a series of 1s and 0s, in most cases combined to form hexadecimal words.
These need to be correctly interpreted by the code reader to produce an OBD2 code.
For example the P ins power train does not exist in the hexadecimal alphabet so the code reader will read the hex and convert it to a recognised industry standard output. I have seen a non STAR reader report an error code that Star doesn't simply because the code reader is not reading the error memory correctly. ALL industry standard OBD codes are Inthe format mentioned previously but they are not stored that way in the ECU.
So I took it back to terry and had it put on star and only 3 codes came up and they were all to do with dpf. But the thing is my dpf has been removed. I assume it has something to do with dpf pressure sensor as there was some rewiring done with this at the time. so will get this replaced and see what happens. EML has been cleared now But after 2 start ups it's come back. 1 fault said soot level too high, can it still get blocked without a dpf??
Any tips on how to get these 2 dpf pressure sensor hoses and clips out??
So just to update for anyone having issues with the heater. So it's normal for high idle in cold weather and does drop once warmed up. But I changed my cabin filter the other day as all I could smell was a vomit like stench coming out when air con was on. Filter replaced and now is blowing full power
On a different note, if I were you, no matter if you had the DPF removed or not, get a new one fitted before the regs change.
Once they do, you will not get a valid MOT. It is less hassle taking the car on a long-ish run every 250-300 miles than dealing with all the headaches that not having a DPF inflict.
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