W220 S Class Hard Damping HELP Please?!

markben

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Greetings all

Has anyone here had problems with overly-hard damping in their S class? Despite 4 new Mercedes Reman OE air struts & valve block, numerous 'No Fault' SDS reports & many other more obvious causes eliminated, my Adaptive Damping is 'stuck' either in Sport 2 or Level 4 Hardest / Safety mode. The car rises ok on the dash switch, never 'drops/ sags' and the ride height is always even. BUT... the Adaptive Damping is as hard as a rock / effectively rigid in 'Comfort' mode even at sub-30 mph speeds in town over minor road undulations, ridges & ruts, speed humps etc. Ouch! :(.

Even my local specialist auto electrician is stumped after live-streaming voltage to the struts with an oscilloscope: they all appear to be actuating (so in theory the solenoid damping valves are fully Open for Soft Compression & Rebound Level 1 setting?): but in reality they aren't. Also: no signs of water ingress / dampness under the carpets where many of the electrics are routed.

Before you ask: the car is an immaculate, cherished 135k mile 2004 facelift S320L cdi running on standard 17" alloys with newish OE 225/55 94W rated Continental tyres at the correct pressures. It drives perfectly straight, has new OE front suspension arms etc, connectors to struts checked for corrosion, airmatic ECU swapped for a used / tested one, sensor readings all within range etc. - I could go on & on. Only to say that after 5 years the problem persists. Another clue: the new OE suspension arms have been replaced AGAIN after only 14k miles since last done due to being 'mashed' (my helpful local Mercedes Indie says they should last approx 40k miles in normal driving conditions, and I'm a gentle driver). Evidence enough that I'm not imagining the problem? (I know S Classes well as a former MB sales exec & latterly head office training consultant on many Ride & Drive events - 'Magic Carpet' Ride & all that?) ;).

John Daly (here - thanks) kindly suggested that a 'hidden' bad connection to / from a relay, SAM or other electrical component in the ADS system might be causing the ECU to shut-down the ADS into Hardest / Level 4 Safety mode - but without throwing a code on SDS or any warnings on the instrument cluster. When I first had the car there was a brief 'burning rubber' smell in the cabin: never to be repeated, but at the same time the cause has never been never found. Strange or what?!

All thoughts & suggestions welcomed from any W220 owners who've had similar 'mystery / hidden' (i.e. no SDS fault codes) electrical problems - or any Mercedes Techies who might be tuning in? Or.. would anyone in the South / South West with a 'healthy' (airmatic / ADS wise) W220 of any variant like to meet-up and drive my car / give me their opinion on the hard damping problem? (I'll be happy to travel to you & buy lunch in appreciation).

Thanks all

Mark B. (Bristol area)
 
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alexanderfoti

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OK so step back. Some contradicting information here.

Local auto elec has measured voltage to the valves, and they are receiving power, therefore the problem must be the struts

OR

the auto elec does not have enough info on how the damping works on the ADS portion of the airmatic struts.

Looking through the docs, the two solenoid valves are OPEN for the most comfortable setting. The default position is CLOSED, so for the most comfortable setting, 12v should be present at both solenoids whilst in comfort mode.

If you have 12v present most of the time, then there is a fault in the struts (not unheard of, even with MB reman parts).
If you do not have 12v present most of the time, then there is a wiring fault, fault with the airmatic ecu etc.

The strut valves can be actuated manually, and voltage measurements taken there to confirm functionality.
 
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markben

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OK so step back. Some contradicting information here.

Local auto elec has measured voltage to the valves, and they are receiving power, therefore the problem must be the struts

OR

the auto elec does not have enough info on how the damping works on the ADS portion of the airmatic struts.

Looking through the docs, the two solenoid valves are OPEN for the most comfortable setting. The default position is CLOSED, so for the most comfortable setting, 12v should be present at both solenoids whilst in comfort mode.

If you have 12v present most of the time, then there is a fault in the struts (not unheard of, even with MB reman parts).
If you do not have 12v present most of the time, then there is a wiring fault, fault with the airmatic ecu etc.

The strut valves can be actuated manually, and voltage measurements taken there to confirm functionality.
Many thanks alexander for your thoughts & expertise. You have a good point about how, exactly, the damping solenoids operate on the ADS portion of the airmatic struts. (Voltage / Current draw / Pulse Wave Modulation etc?).

But.. (?!): all 4 new MB sourced OE Reman Struts have made ZERO difference to the Hard Damping problem compared with the original 17 year-old original struts. So maybe a faulty new strut (albeit unlikely)? And I agree: maybe the auto elec is struggling with how to diagnose the prob?

Just to add.. very occasionally, one or another strut randomly seems to feel slightly softer over the usual bumps & dips on my familiar local roads. Maybe a very intermittent electrical fault somewhere in the ADS system?

Either way, your help & comments are much appreciated. Thanks, and 'work in progress'.
 
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alexanderfoti

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OK so all 4 new struts and the hard damping issue remains.

Potentially the problem is not with the ADS system? (sumframe bushes, etc)

You could probably power the solenoids permanently on a low current or at 90% duty cycle and experience max soft ride, but this can also be done with star in dev mode.
 
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markben

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OK so all 4 new struts and the hard damping issue remains.

Potentially the problem is not with the ADS system? (sumframe bushes, etc)

You could probably power the solenoids permanently on a low current or at 90% duty cycle and experience max soft ride, but this can also be done with star in dev mode.
Thanks again alexander. Where are you based? If in the UK I'll bring the car to you to investigate further. To be honest I'm losing hope with my local 'experts'.

(Amendment: I see you're in Kent).
 
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alexanderfoti

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markben

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Based ln Tonbridge

AMF Automotive Ltd
020 3384 4644

Feel free to give me a call any time. Does need methodical approach
Thanks, and I agree about a methodical approach. That's my disappointment with various other Indies & the local auto elec.

Will call you in the next couple of days for a chat about how to solve my hard damping prob / give you the history of my car / previous work done etc. The cost / time to travel to you doesn't matter if you can fix it, it's more about getting my 'old' but immaculate S Class perfect again - and cheaper than buying a new one (@ £76k !). My contact details: mark@markbenjamintraining.co.uk / mob: edited for security or see my Facebook Profile 'markbenajmin57' if you want to verify my identity ;-)
 
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Dock72

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Good evening . I read your posts and I have the same problem. I have 4 new Bilstein shock absorbers, new compressor, I tried 3 airmatic modules, new valve block but nothing. The car sometimes works perfectly, magic carpet, other times it rises like a goat and becomes rigid.
Greetings all

Has anyone here had problems with overly-hard damping in their S class? Despite 4 new Mercedes Reman OE air struts & valve block, numerous 'No Fault' SDS reports & many other more obvious causes eliminated, my Adaptive Damping is 'stuck' either in Sport 2 or Level 4 Hardest / Safety mode. The car rises ok on the dash switch, never 'drops/ sags' and the ride height is always even. BUT... the Adaptive Damping is as hard as a rock / effectively rigid in 'Comfort' mode even at sub-30 mph speeds in town over minor road undulations, ridges & ruts, speed humps etc. Ouch! :(.

Even my local specialist auto electrician is stumped after live-streaming voltage to the struts with an oscilloscope: they all appear to be actuating (so in theory the solenoid damping valves are fully Open for Soft Compression & Rebound Level 1 setting?): but in reality they aren't. Also: no signs of water ingress / dampness under the carpets where many of the electrics are routed.

Before you ask: the car is an immaculate, cherished 135k mile 2004 facelift S320L cdi running on standard 17" alloys with newish OE 225/55 94W rated Continental tyres at the correct pressures. It drives perfectly straight, has new OE front suspension arms etc, connectors to struts checked for corrosion, airmatic ECU swapped for a used / tested one, sensor readings all within range etc. - I could go on & on. Only to say that after 5 years the problem persists. Another clue: the new OE suspension arms have been replaced AGAIN after only 14k miles since last done due to being 'mashed' (my helpful local Mercedes Indie says they should last approx 40k miles in normal driving conditions, and I'm a gentle driver). Evidence enough that I'm not imagining the problem? (I know S Classes well as a former MB sales exec & latterly head office training consultant on many Ride & Drive events - 'Magic Carpet' Ride & all that?) ;).

John Daly (here - thanks) kindly suggested that a 'hidden' bad connection to / from a relay, SAM or other electrical component in the ADS system might be causing the ECU to shut-down the ADS into Hardest / Level 4 Safety mode - but without throwing a code on SDS or any warnings on the instrument cluster. When I first had the car there was a brief 'burning rubber' smell in the cabin: never to be repeated, but at the same time the cause has never been never found. Strange or what?!

All thoughts & suggestions welcomed from any W220 owners who've had similar 'mystery / hidden' (i.e. no SDS fault codes) electrical problems - or any Mercedes Techies who might be tuning in? Or.. would anyone in the South / South West with a 'healthy' (airmatic / ADS wise) W220 of any variant like to meet-up and drive my car / give me their opinion on the hard damping problem? (I'll be happy to travel to you & buy lunch in appreciation).

Thanks all

Mark B. (Bristol area)
Good evening . I read your posts and I have the same problem. I have 4 new Bilstein shock absorbers, new compressor, I tried 3 airmatic modules, new valve block but nothing. The car sometimes works perfectly, magic carpet, other times it rises like a goat and becomes rigid.
 

Dock72

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Greetings all

Has anyone here had problems with overly-hard damping in their S class? Despite 4 new Mercedes Reman OE air struts & valve block, numerous 'No Fault' SDS reports & many other more obvious causes eliminated, my Adaptive Damping is 'stuck' either in Sport 2 or Level 4 Hardest / Safety mode. The car rises ok on the dash switch, never 'drops/ sags' and the ride height is always even. BUT... the Adaptive Damping is as hard as a rock / effectively rigid in 'Comfort' mode even at sub-30 mph speeds in town over minor road undulations, ridges & ruts, speed humps etc. Ouch! :(.

Even my local specialist auto electrician is stumped after live-streaming voltage to the struts with an oscilloscope: they all appear to be actuating (so in theory the solenoid damping valves are fully Open for Soft Compression & Rebound Level 1 setting?): but in reality they aren't. Also: no signs of water ingress / dampness under the carpets where many of the electrics are routed.

Before you ask: the car is an immaculate, cherished 135k mile 2004 facelift S320L cdi running on standard 17" alloys with newish OE 225/55 94W rated Continental tyres at the correct pressures. It drives perfectly straight, has new OE front suspension arms etc, connectors to struts checked for corrosion, airmatic ECU swapped for a used / tested one, sensor readings all within range etc. - I could go on & on. Only to say that after 5 years the problem persists. Another clue: the new OE suspension arms have been replaced AGAIN after only 14k miles since last done due to being 'mashed' (my helpful local Mercedes Indie says they should last approx 40k miles in normal driving conditions, and I'm a gentle driver). Evidence enough that I'm not imagining the problem? (I know S Classes well as a former MB sales exec & latterly head office training consultant on many Ride & Drive events - 'Magic Carpet' Ride & all that?) ;).

John Daly (here - thanks) kindly suggested that a 'hidden' bad connection to / from a relay, SAM or other electrical component in the ADS system might be causing the ECU to shut-down the ADS into Hardest / Level 4 Safety mode - but without throwing a code on SDS or any warnings on the instrument cluster. When I first had the car there was a brief 'burning rubber' smell in the cabin: never to be repeated, but at the same time the cause has never been never found. Strange or what?!

All thoughts & suggestions welcomed from any W220 owners who've had similar 'mystery / hidden' (i.e. no SDS fault codes) electrical problems - or any Mercedes Techies who might be tuning in? Or.. would anyone in the South / South West with a 'healthy' (airmatic / ADS wise) W220 of any variant like to meet-up and drive my car / give me their opinion on the hard damping problem? (I'll be happy to travel to you & buy lunch in appreciation).

Thanks all

Mark B. (Bristol area)
But I noticed something strange that I'm working on right now. If I disconnect the interface from the mobile phone {before that I had a standby consumption of 0.52A} the consumption decreases to 0.07A and it seems that the car behaves differently. But I can't continue the tests because I accidentally broke a wire from a DPF sensor and I don't go with it for a while.
 
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Dock72

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From my mistakes, I can tell you the following: whenever you change a module you have to remove the terminal from the battery and the key from the ignition! Also buy a metal chain with a bracelet from a DIY store and tie your left hand to the car chassis! The airmatic modules have C-MOS components that work on 4.8-5v and you can charge up to a few thousand volts, especially if you have sports shoes and a synthetic t-shirt. You can partially destroy important modules, even the engine ECU and the trouble is that they will not be seen by the DAS as defects but they will not execute certain logic correctly and effectively go crazy near the car.
 
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markben

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From my mistakes, I can tell you the following: whenever you change a module you have to remove the terminal from the battery and the key from the ignition! Also buy a metal chain with a bracelet from a DIY store and tie your left hand to the car chassis! The airmatic modules have C-MOS components that work on 4.8-5v and you can charge up to a few thousand volts, especially if you have sports shoes and a synthetic t-shirt. You can partially destroy important modules, even the engine ECU and the trouble is that they will not be seen by the DAS as defects but they will not execute certain logic correctly and effectively go crazy near the car.
Greetings Dock72. Thanks for your messages, that's really interesting (and helpful) to know. I'll chat online here more with you this evening, give me an hour..
 
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markben

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Anytime . No problem .
Can I ask: what's your location (Country / Region) and are you a technician or 'just' an enthusiastic W220 owner? Either way, we have very similar experiences of the mystery HD (hard damping) problem. 'Rides like a goat' etc describes it very well!

It's interesting that you have a magic carpet ride SOME of the time: mine is pretty rigid virtually ALL of the time except for the occasional, temporary, random, seemingly slight softening. I've owned my otherwise immaculate W220 for 5 years and haven't had any luck in solving the HD problem despite many efforts by various Mercedes independent specialists, a local auto electrical 'specialist', & even my local main dealer in the UK.

Sadly, my conclusion is that quite a few specialists well-know how complex older W220s are electronically: and tend to avoid spending open-ended workshop time & customers' money in 'advanced' fault finding, especially if SDS / DAS etc show 'no faults' and the car is at least driveable, if not 'right' (as opposed to if the car is disabled by a catastrophic suspension failure - as is often the case with Airmatic cars). But that's not necessarily a negative criticism of independent Mercedes specialists - I guess they have to weigh-up what is the most viable work for them commercially?

That said: I'm determined to get to the root of my HD problem and look forward to comparing notes with you.

Many thanks in the meantime

Mark B.
 

Dock72

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Can I ask: what's your location (Country / Region) and are you a technician or 'just' an enthusiastic W220 owner? Either way, we have very similar experiences of the mystery HD (hard damping) problem. 'Rides like a goat' etc describes it very well!

It's interesting that you have a magic carpet ride SOME of the time: mine is pretty rigid virtually ALL of the time except for the occasional, temporary, random, seemingly slight softening. I've owned my otherwise immaculate W220 for 5 years and haven't had any luck in solving the HD problem despite many efforts by various Mercedes independent specialists, a local auto electrical 'specialist', & even my local main dealer in the UK.

Sadly, my conclusion is that quite a few specialists well-know how complex older W220s are electronically: and tend to avoid spending open-ended workshop time & customers' money in 'advanced' fault finding, especially if SDS / DAS etc show 'no faults' and the car is at least driveable, if not 'right' (as opposed to if the car is disabled by a catastrophic suspension failure - as is often the case with Airmatic cars). But that's not necessarily a negative criticism of independent Mercedes specialists - I guess they have to weigh-up what is the most viable work for them commercially?

That said: I'm determined to get to the root of my HD problem and look forward to comparing notes with you.

Many thanks in the meantime

Mark B.
Hi Mark! I am a doctor and I am educated not to leave anything in the clutches of death. So I took this car close to the scrap and started rebuilding it, like a toy but that seems to have no purpose. I'm a pretty deductive guy, and I'm lucky to be assisted by a superbrain ,a friend who worked at the Progresul plant in the electronic research lab, where there was even a restricted area that made hydraulic propulsion systems for the U.S. Navy. Now there is nothing there and the gypsies cut the last pieces of metal to sell everything for scrap metal. My luck is that my friend Claudius preferred to stay here with his family and go to church every Sunday instead of going to Bristol to his brother-in-law who is a software engineer. I will send you pictures with the w220 cars, I have 2, one is perfect and the other eats my days. Even though I have 2 to be able to make a comparison, it is extremely difficult to find the needle in the fan cart ... So let's get back to the topic: Motto- Do it yourself! Buy a Star c4, if you take c3 it will certainly not see your car because the Chinese have not provided the motherboard with communication for your model. You, personally, buy an Airmatic module from scratch, you will disassemble it, but before that, get a graphite sponge for electronic components, cut 2 pieces and before you measure how big they are according to your module. When you mount the module, the battery, the key removed and the negative bracelet in your hand must be on. These electronic systems work on feedback and even a small subroutine if left unchecked crashes like a rabbit blinded by headlights. They are far from the splendor of the human brain that accepts errors and even from errors generates correct solutions. Calibration: enter real values then level sensors {must be all 2.54-2.57- component 1 signal}, if the back is black or at the limit {2.63} {can be manual adjusted} immediately enter safe mode. Then enter the computer adaptations ,then level calibration, check again the values to be 2.54-2.57 {you can adjust them directly from here if you have the right valve block- to be very close, balanced and in the middle area. Then enter the angles. Attention, I did well with 5.1 on the front and -1.5 on the back, but then, after SDS tells you: "Successfully calibrated" you go back to real values and see if it accepted your angles. How? Level zero or plus minus one must remain on real value-vehicle level section. If it is bigger or smaller, change the angles until you stay at 0 or 1.
 
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Dock72

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What to check: You told me you had the ECU redone. This is a problem because, as I said, it may not be well-adapted, not all coding may be written correctly, or simply defective. I don't know if they do the reballing correctly, it's done under a microscope. There is another coding on ZGW called Luftfederung. I also don't know what Vorhanden or Nicht Vorhanden should be like? I copied all the coding from one machine to another but to no avail. However, many key encodings were not done. In your case, I think the Airmatic ECU is defective and I recommend that you stop driving because it damages the shock absorbers. Someone told me that before installing you must release air from them and then maximum-minimum stroke is done manually about 10-15 times, otherwise it breaks if you install them directly. I don't know what to believe but in this case I lost 2500 euros ...
 

Dock72

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Here are pictures with interior. The gray interior have some elements coated at Maserati workshop. Full Alcantara included doors panel . Both have Distronic , full soft close and dynamic chairs , bixenon etc.
 

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Dock72

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Gray working like a princess , beige like a goat.
 

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markben

markben

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Hi again 'Doc' ;). Thanks for your extensive technical info (and the pics - interesting!). I've read about the coding issues with replacement parts, and the calibration procedure etc. Yes I did swap my original airmatic ECU for a 'used / tested' one, but it made no difference. So unless I was unlucky enough to have 2 faulty ECU's and / or both were incorrectly coded, I can only assume that the problem is somewhere else in the system?

I'm sure my local and other Mercedes Indies know about these things: but here in the UK many of them seem reluctant to do more extensive fault diagnosis if SDS / DAS shows 'no faults' and the car is driveable - in their opinion. A few have even tried to convince me that 'it rides ok' when I know better from my experience of S Class Magic Carpet ride quality over the past 30+ years. (Rant over! ). Maybe it's because they know how complex W220s are electronically + they are always busy and it's more profitable to concentrate on routine work? You tell me...

That said: I agree with you about the impact of a non-functioning ADS on suspension components (damage to struts etc). Aside from the damping being rock hard ('goat like'!), my 220 has (q. my local Indie) 'chewed-up' 2 sets of OE front suspension arm bushings within 30k miles (15k miles per set), when he says they should last approx 40k miles in normal driving conditions. He even replaced the most recent set F.O.C under warranty just in case of faulty bushings: but still no difference. So it's back to the drawing board on the hard damping issue.

Hey ho - I'll pick out the more technical bits from your kind reply and offer them to my local Indie next time around just in case he's missed anything.:rolleyes:

Thanks again and I'll keep you & others here posted on progress.
 

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Don't know if this will help, but I've had the same issue with my W220, the suspension stiffening up but no fault code showing. It turned out to be a bad connection to one of the acceleration sensors, one of the front ones in the engine bay, near the strut top. My indy said the no or low voltage due to the bad contact makes the suspension ecu think there's a problem somewhere and it defaults to a stiff setting. He just cleaned the contacts and the magic ride returned.
There's 4 sensors, the 2 in the engine bay are easy to get at but I think the 2 at the rear are buried behind the boot trim somewhere.
 

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Thanks a lot ! I will take the tester with me and i ll check the values in real time . Yesterday i buy a 12v-220v adapter . There are only 3 accelerations sensors , one is on back side ,near the right headrest. I t s a mess to check the third :):):)
 

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