What grease to use when replacing a hub bearing?

[brandwooddixon]

Well I've finally bit the bullet and ordered a set of bearings and a seal to replace the ones in the NSF hub of my W210.

It's had a bit of play in it for some time now. It doesn't generate the typical drumming noise of a completely shot bearing but you can feel it if you rock the wheel vertically and it's also binding slightly in one position as it rotates.

I'm hoping that the fact that I've driven with it in this condition for some time hasn't damaged the hub.

Assuming all is well. What's the best grease to pack it with? I have plenty of LM grease but do I need something more high tech?

 

[television]

Sorry it has to be a high temperature grease for whell bearings

http://moodle.student.cnwl.ac.uk/mo...teersusp/steer/steeringSystem/whlbearing.html

 

[brandwooddixon]

So is it a case of visiting the dealer or is there a suitable grease available at other outlets?

 

[Cole@MBS]

Most bearing kits from mb come with the grease, dont expect much though, i use more butter on toast then you get suppied grease!!

 

[television]

So is it a case of visiting the dealer or is there a suitable grease available at other outlets?

All good car shops keep it.

 

[ncooper]

CASTROL LM GREASE
Stock Code: 58190
Castrol LM is a smooth lithium based grease. It contains hydroxystearate soaps which combine properties of good low temperature pumpability, good resistance to mechanical shear, ability to operate at moderately high temperatures and excellent water and corrosion resistance.

Castrol LM is well proven as a chassis grease. It is also a good wheel bearing grease for use over a wide range of temperatures. It is suitable for most other automotive grease applications within its specified operating temperature range.

 

[Cole@MBS]

Well you made an entrance!!!

Welcome to the forums!!!

 

[television]

Welcome from me as well ncooper

 

[ncooper]

Hello and thank you for your welcome messages.

I have used Castrol LM for years to repack wheel bearings and grease universal joints so I was slightly alarmed to read that it wasn't suitable.
My last post is an extract from their advertisement but I am ready to be introduced to a better product.

Regards,
Nick.

 

[Cole@MBS]

I agree Nick, i have only ever used lm for bearings, its what i was brought up with!!!

 

[television]

its what i was brought up with!!!

It takes all sorts, what flavour was it

 

[kth286]

Most bearing kits from mb come with the grease, dont expect much though, i use more butter on toast then you get suppied grease!!

The sachets of grease from merc dealer come with EXACTLY the correct amount to do the job.

It is all done by weight.

In between the bearing there should be a certain weight, and in the cap there should be the balance.

Your bearing will then last another 150,000 miles.

 

[brandwooddixon]

Well I've got several new tubs of Castrol LM, which is what I was originally going to use, but then wasn't so sure.

I think I may even have a tub of LM2 somewhere.

 

[Cole@MBS]

The sachets of grease from merc dealer come with EXACTLY the correct amount to do the job.

It is all done by weight.

In between the bearing there should be a certain weight, and in the cap there should be the balance.

Your bearing will then last another 150,000 miles.

Incorrect!!

Wis states!

You pack the races with the grease suppied, you then add a thumb amount to the outer dust cap,

Unless you know more than WIS???

 

[television]

Rather a rude way to respond to kth286

 

[Cole@MBS]

Changed sir! just having a bad day!!!

 

[BlackC55]

I have yet to replace a front wheel bearing on a MB. Most just need a re-grease and adjustment. The grease is a special bright green grease available from mb

 

[Number_Cruncher]

>>I have yet to replace a front wheel bearing on a MB

The one on my W124 nearly got away!

I found the problem while replacing the discs and pads. There was nothing that made me suspicious of the bearing, and it was a pure fluke I found it.

Spinning and rocking the assembled wheel, I felt nothing.

When I removed the wheel, and the caliper, again, I turned the hub / disc and still, I felt nothing at all wrong.

It was only when I removed the disc that I felt the problem - as I turned the hub, it would become a bit tight for a little way, and then, free off again.

I found one roller in the small outer bearing had failed quite badly, and had also caused secondary damage to the outer race (doubtlessly, it had damaged the inner race too, but I did not disassemble the cage and rollers to see it.

As the inner race was sometimes being spun as the roller locked, I think that I narrowly missed the whole bearing and stub axle welding itself together.

 

[kth286]

Incorrect!!

Wis states!

You pack the races with the grease suppied, you then add a thumb amount to the outer dust cap,

Unless you know more than WIS???

As Black C55 states, the Merc grease for my 124 is bright green in 150 gm tubes, exactly the correct amount to do two wheels.

So, 75 gms for each wheel as follows:-

* Hub with bearings and sealing ring 55 gms

* Hub cap (up to the line) 15 gms

* 5 gms for coating the faces of the roller bearings themselves.

Info from the Mercedes 124 workshop manual.

WIS is obviously dumbed down compared to the previous manuals when Mercedes made cars properly.

 

[brandwooddixon]

Well it's all done and only time will tell if it was a good job or not.

As it happens I have a spare repair kit from GSF autoparts. I wasn't convinced that it had all that was necessary for £12 and ordered some from somewhere else for nearly £40.

It looks as if when my car had some work doen last November the garage "buggered" the hub when replacing discs. The disc retaining screw was missing and in it's place there was the broken tip of a reamer. The bearing races also showed some perpendicular lines whihc leads me to think that the mechanic used a hammer to remove the rest of the reamer!

The new bearing races were difficult to fit (had to resort to using the old ones as a drift and lots of gentle tapping).

There wasn't a washer under the clamp nut so in order to get the "end float" I tightened it up with a wrench until I found it difficult to rotate the hub. I then undid it and then did the nut up as tight as I could with my fingers.

Hopefully that will be OK - I'll check in a couple of hundred miles to see if it needs tightening again.