what to look for when buying

[BJT]

Hi,
Am thinking of buying a merc for my next car, probably either an E or C class and probably about an M-reg.
I'm probably going to have about 3 grand to spend, firstly am I getting ideas above my station? by considering a merc - i.e. are my chances of ending up with a basketcase for that sort of money too high?

I guess this probably means I'm looking around a 10 year old one, possibly between L-reg and P-reg.
Secondly, my main reason for posting is I could really do with information on what can commonly go wrong that should put me off buying a particular example and how I should spot it, and tips on what models / features etc. I should look for and steer clear of. I'm looking to arm myself with enough information that I can use to inspect a merc that's for sale in order to decide whether it's a good egg or a basket case.

Thirdly, I know servicing at a dealer is expensive for mercs compared to other cars, e.g. £200 - £500 for a service? at a main dealer, but how many people on here take theirs to independent garages and how much do they charge / are they any good? I'm not bothered about keeping stamps, I run a car for me not the next guy.
Also is there a lot you can do yourself? (I'm currently just about at the stage where I can change the oil on my celica (which I'm selling) but that's about as far as I go at the moment - but I'm learning!) What I'm getting at is, are they actually much harder to service than other cars, or is it just that the main dealers just like lining their pockets. e.g. is the oil filter hard to get to such that you have to take loads of things off etc.?

Anyhow sorry for the barrage of questions, hope to be sticking around!

Cheers

 

[andy_k]

unless you are looking specifically for a coupe or an estate then 3k is plenty to find a nice M or N reg W124 (I guess that is what you are calling an E class at that age). I would avoid the later E Class model (round headlights) from that period there are a lot around but they have a very poor reputation for going rusty.

Unless you are really sure what you are looking at I'd recommend you get the car checked over by someone knowledgeable beofre you part with any money.

Depending on where you are thee are probably some forum members who would be happy to go along with you.

If it was me making the decision I'd choose the old E class over a C class everyday of the week but then I'm slightly biased


Andy

 

[BJT]

Unless you are really sure what you are looking at I'd recommend you get the car checked over by someone knowledgeable beofre you part with any money.

I guess what I'm angling towards is to be able to get sure what I'm looking at, if you get my drift...?

Depending on where you are thee are probably some forum members who would be happy to go along with you.

That would be immensely helpful if there are any in the Sheffield area!

If it was me making the decision I'd choose the old E class over a C class everyday of the week but then I'm slightly biased

yeah, so would I methinks tbh.


Anyhow cheers for the help Andy

 

[andy_k]

a very quick buyers guide for the W124 models please remember this is in no way complete and I'm sure others will add to it

1, bodywork should be rust free known rust spots on the W124 are the front wings above the bumpers, they rust through from the inside and not much will stop that.

2, make sure all the panels fit properly and there's no evidence of poor repairs. Replacement panels aren't cheap so some get bodged.

3, suspension should be free from any clunks and rattles. Anti roll bar drop links are a known weakness. As are steering dampers are a service item every 50k miles (or less). Make sure all the tyres are worn evenly and look for any tell tale signs of kerb impact. The suspension is strong but it's expensive to put right. If the car feels vague when driving check the steering damper first (under car behind front wheels - if it's leaking it's had it) then look at the rear suspension. After that it gets costly

4, The car should start instantly and idle smoothly. Make sure it's oil is good, there's coolant (not just water) in the radiator expansion tank and there's no signs of oil. Tappets are known to rattle for a while on cold engines. If it stops when the car is warm then don't stress, if it doesn't then don't buy it. Oil pressure should be at 3 bar with the engine above 1500 rpm and anything down to 1 bar at tickover. If the engine sounds rough or noisy I wouldn't buy it but try and locate the sound. Cam chain guides are a relatively easy fix as is the serpentine belt tensioner. Both can contribute to a noisy engine.

5, Interior should be in good condition, the drivers seat bolster wears on higher mileage cars with fabric trim . Not much to do about that one. New seat panels are expensive but a decent upholsterer will be able to patch it for you.

6, all the electrics should work, any toys that don't work aren't cheap to replace or fix. Particularly the sunroof. If it's a later car make sure the comfort locking works.

7, Don't expect a full service history but look for the one with the most complete history you can find.

If you have any doubts, walk away. There are plenty of high quality cars for sale at sensible prices.

Andy

 

[MerChris]

Being a soon-to-be ex owner of a lovely w124 300E (shame you're not looking for a 1992 model as it's for sale right now), I did a little research on w124's before diving in. Overall, they're bulletproof if you get a good model which has been cared for. Only weakness I hear spoken about is the head gasket going over time, signs of which can be oil in the coolant system. Servicing has been a little much for me but not unreasonable - about £150 - £275 + VAT from an excellent indie in Edinburgh, depends on the level of service. Tyres cost me £145 a pair, an elec aerial was £25 and that's been about it for me apart from loads of weekend work with the hose and camois. These cars are easy to work on as its all fairly simple and accessible with very little complicated electronics and engine management systems to deal with. A lot of folks do their own work and this forum fantastic for getting specific help and advice. So go ahead, get your W124 and enjoy. On a 95 plate, you'll be looking at maybe 100K-120K miles and will double it easy. Good luck with the purchase - there are probably lots of good examplesgoing around at the mo. I know of one for sure ;-)Happy hunting!

 

[BJT]

Andy, that's ever so helpful, you're a gent. Just a couple of clarifications if I may...

3, suspension should be free from any clunks and rattles. Anti roll bar drop links are a known weakness. As are steering dampers are a service item every 50k miles (or less).

Anti-roll bar drop links are the suspension arms that go diagonally up from inside the wheel mountings to the strut, right?
And you can feel behind the wheel and try and wobble them, if they feel loose or they wobble then that's a potential problem... am I right?

steering damper first (under car behind front wheels - if it's leaking it's had it)

This is like a hydraulic cylinder right? and if it's leaking there'll be tell tale signs of fluid on the piston?

there's coolant (not just water) in the radiator expansion tank and there's no signs of oil.

I know how to check for oil, by getting a little bit on the finger and making sure it isn't separating etc. or oily, but how do you know if it's not just water? By what colour it is?

Tappets are known to rattle for a while on cold engines. If it stops when the car is warm then don't stress, if it doesn't then don't buy it.

I've noticed this when looking at an E220 once before... it was quite bad so it put me off

5, Interior should be in good condition, the drivers seat bolster wears on higher mileage cars with fabric trim . Not much to do about that one. New seat panels are expensive but a decent upholsterer will be able to patch it for you.

that's something I'll be checking closely, comfort's my main priority in my next car!

Thanks again,
Ben

 

[jberks]

Ben,
By looking at the older ones you are in some ways better off anyway. As has been said, the W202 (C) and W124 (E) are better built than the newer ones. Either is pretty bullet proof. The only thing I can see that hasn't been mentioned is fuel economy. These cars are heavy and were designed in the days of cheap fuel. Whether you could find a non lunar diesel I don't know but many of us dream of owning a merc and then find that whilst we can afford to buy and maintain one, we can't afford to fuel it. Probably something you've already considered but worth mentioning as some have bought 300E's and then had panick attacks at the pumps.

The C class is basically a shrunk W124 and has nearly the same solidity and certainly a similar feel (if a little more modern) but should be cheaper to run. I bought a 3 year old C220 petrol back in '98, ran it for 3 years then sold it to my dad. He still has it and it still looks as good, and virtually runs as well, as the day I collected it from the dealer. I only hope my W211 is as sweet at that age!

On the maintainance front, there is plenty you can do yourself but be cautious as there are lots of sensitive electronics and most things are computer controlled to some extent. Certainly do not go to the dealers, the prices you quite are probably on the low side. Find a good indie MB specialist, get a good relationship with them and they will help and advise you as you go along. I don't know any around sheff, I have an excellent one in Leeds that a friend in Chesterfield uses but someone may know a nearer one.

Get a good Merc and you'll never look back.

 

[andy_k]

Andy, that's ever so helpful, you're a gent. Just a couple of clarifications if I may...



Anti-roll bar drop links are the suspension arms that go diagonally up from inside the wheel mountings to the strut, right?
And you can feel behind the wheel and try and wobble them, if they feel loose or they wobble then that's a potential problem... am I right?


This is like a hydraulic cylinder right? and if it's leaking there'll be tell tale signs of fluid on the piston?


I know how to check for oil, by getting a little bit on the finger and making sure it isn't separating etc. or oily, but how do you know if it's not just water? By what colour it is?



I've noticed this when looking at an E220 once before... it was quite bad so it put me off


that's something I'll be checking closely, comfort's my main priority in my next car!

Thanks again,
Ben

the anti roll bar drop links on the front are easy to see - they are just behind the wheels. Look for cracks and signs of wear. The rear ones are a bit more awkward as they are tucked away behind a plastic panel on the rear axle - drive the car and listen for any noise from around the rear wheel area then investigate further.

yep, the steering damper looks like a thin shock absorber mounted laterally on the underside of the car

Colour of coolant is your main clue. If it's clear it's wrong. The engines need the corrosion inhibitors that proper coolant contains to ensure they remain healthy.

Andy

 

[MerChris]

Ben,
By looking at the older ones you are in some ways better off anyway. As has been said, the W202 (C) and W124 (E) are better built than the newer ones. Either is pretty bullet proof. The only thing I can see that hasn't been mentioned is fuel economy. These cars are heavy and were designed in the days of cheap fuel. Whether you could find a non lunar diesel I don't know but many of us dream of owning a merc and then find that whilst we can afford to buy and maintain one, we can't afford to fuel it. Probably something you've already considered but worth mentioning as some have bought 300E's and then had panick attacks at the pumps.

The C class is basically a shrunk W124 and has nearly the same solidity and certainly a similar feel (if a little more modern) but should be cheaper to run. I bought a 3 year old C220 petrol back in '98, ran it for 3 years then sold it to my dad. He still has it and it still looks as good, and virtually runs as well, as the day I collected it from the dealer. I only hope my W211 is as sweet at that age!

On the maintainance front, there is plenty you can do yourself but be cautious as there are lots of sensitive electronics and most things are computer controlled to some extent. Certainly do not go to the dealers, the prices you quite are probably on the low side. Find a good indie MB specialist, get a good relationship with them and they will help and advise you as you go along. I don't know any around sheff, I have an excellent one in Leeds that a friend in Chesterfield uses but someone may know a nearer one.

Get a good Merc and you'll never look back.

The thing about petrol prices makes me laugh. As an owner of a 300E, I don't really get palpatations at the cost per fill up, it's the regularity with which I revisit the pumps that gets me going! I wonder if it's the opposite for diesel owners, as the visits are less frequent but more costly per go. I'm not if one is better than the other but I'm heading back to diesel ownership as soon as I can :cry:

 

[jberks]

I wonder if it's the opposite for diesel owners, as the visits are less frequent but more costly per go. I'm not if one is better than the other but I'm heading back to diesel ownership as soon as I can :cry:

A lot of truth in that. With my old E240 I used to visit the pump twice a week and spend £45 a time. Now I am the proud owner of a cdi, I just go in once a week but it costs me £65 instead.

 

[cyps]

I own a w210 320 avantgarde petrol it does 400+ miles on 60.00 which i think is reasonable for the size and i like using the kickdown too