What treatment would be best for a patch welded repair?

Top Cat

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I am looking for your general comments please for this non MB car:

I need to have a small patch welded onto one sill, just ahead of the rear wheel and on the lower surface of one of my sills, so it will be facing the road surface. I know the welder will immediately smother the area with some sort of undercoat, but having not had to have any welding on a car for over 10 years now, what is the best procedure today for protecting this repair, and in fact to be able to paint it to match the body colour?

Do I need to remove the stuff he applies and use something of my own, or do I simply spray paint over whatever he applies?

I'm a bit lost here, and having read the Waxoyl thread I still am, so any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Give the welder a small tin of hammerite grey primer undercoat ---apply to bare metal leave it at least a week to cure then top coat with smooth hammerite in the colour of the car --again leave it a week if its a good match ok if not mix with touch up to get as good as poss--then just waxoyl the sill (inside and out)
--sometimes you can mix the topcoat smooth hammerite with the touch up to get a really good match ---the waxoyl will cover any slight mis - match.
 

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Hard to know until he has finished it, you could ask him to just leave it and fill,prime and top coat yourself.

There are some spray able finishes like shulzts, or what ever its called, but you would do the whole sill
 

teddycatkin

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The common practice is to cover all blemishes -bad welding or even small holes-by giving all welding jobs for mot repairs with a quick blast of Shultz--its thick horribble guey stuff like tar dead easy to cover and nobody will touch it afterwards --eventually water then seeps behind it after a while and it peels off like skin --if you are keeping or value your car beware!
 
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Hard to know until he has finished it, you could ask him to just leave it and fill,prime and top coat yourself.

There are some spray able finishes like shulzts, or what ever its called, but you would do the whole sill

Once a year, I do give the length of each sill a thorough cleaning with the rough side of a kitchen sponge scourer, i find this just abrasive enough to remove the beginnings of rust stains and of course tar spots. Then I just blow in the length of the sill with a touch up aerosol, and as it is the underside facing the road, it does blend in fine once dry - the car is white so i do this as an annual task to stop it looking rough under there.

I haven't yet touched up the sills this year (I generally wait until about this time of year when the weather is warmer & drier to do such a job) so I intend to freshen up the complete sills immediately after the repair anyway. It is actually a hole just enough to be able to force a key into but may obviously extend a little further under the paint layer, but I'd rather get a plate over it now before it gets worse.
 
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The common practice is to cover all blemishes -bad welding or even small holes-by giving all welding jobs for mot repairs with a quick blast of Shultz--its thick horribble guey stuff like tar dead easy to cover and nobody will touch it afterwards --eventually water then seeps behind it after a while and it peels off like skin --if you are keeping or value your car beware!

Thats my fear, him going mad with the stuff and me then having to strip it all off in order to get proper undercoat & paint on it.
 

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get the repairer to cut out the corroded section and weld the repair plate INSIDE the hole rather than over it from the outside. then you can fill over it and apply primer, then paint as you usually do. if theres ay way to get access to inside the sill after its repaired (removing grommets etc) give the inside of the sill a good dosing of waxoyl. a guy i know did this with his pristine 1982 cortina crusader about 10 yrs ago when the inner wheelarch needed repaired. the car is still in showroom condition now! another way to cover up slight blemishes is to coat the length of the sill with "stoneguard" or "stonechip" as its often known. it can be painted over, protects your bodywork from stonechip damage and dries with a textured finish, not too unlike schultz thats been sprayed. in fact i think most merc sills are factory treated with stoneguard anyhow!
 
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