Wheel change gear.

[51315]

I've bought a used wheel and tyre and shoved it into the boot as don't want to be caught in a situation where it's not possible to use the alternative gunge solution we are now supplied with - and also might want to drive at normal speeds on a motorway in France (or wherever.)
Suggestions please for the rest of the gear I should buy to change a wheel if push comes to shove.

 

[AndySlade]

The standard Mercedes kit used to be:
1. a jack
2. a wheel nut brace to fit wheel bolts
3. a wheel chock (extra precaution to stop car moving whilst jacked up)
also possibly an alignment pin to help fit wheel to the hub

you also need to check the wheel you got fits over the brake calipers at front
you don’t state if new wheel is identical as regards off-set?
do you need different wheels bolts (with shorter threads) if new wheel is steel not alloy?

 

[51315]

Thanks for that. Wheel is same as original and alloy.

 

[VitoVanMan]

When I purchased my SAAB, that had a space saver, so the first purchase was an alloy (the same design) and same tyre as already fitted to the car. This also helps on rotating the wheels and trying to get even tyre wear.
I also threw in a 2 tonne low profile trolley jack for better lifting and safety on the side of the road. Also when you have a puncture the vehicle is much lower to the ground and you need every little advantage in an emergency situation as you can get.
If you have alloys on the vehicle and have never had them off, I have known folk where they have never had a puncture and have not had to remove a wheel, but when they do they find the alloy adhering to the hub and not budging. So its best to undo the wheel bolts and remove the wheel on your drive and not be confronted with that situation on the side of the road. I always smear some copper slip on the faces and the wheel bolts. I always manually torque the bolts to the correct torque and don't use an impact gun like they do in the tyre fitting bays.

 

[EmilysDad]

When I purchased my SAAB, that had a space saver, so the first purchase was an alloy (the same design) and same tyre as already fitted to the car. ....

What happens if you buy a car with staggered wheels?

 

[sonic]

Mine came with a full size spare wheel, but I also carry a 17mm socket, extension bar, & a 2ft long turn bar.Just in case there is an issue with the wheel nuts. I also carry a battery rechargeable compressor.
But I have never had to use any of the kit.

 

[sonic]

What happens if you buy a car with staggered wheels?

Nothing you use it, the rolling radius is the same on both both wheels.
Its the same with a space saver wheel.

 

[EmilysDad]

Nothing you use it, the rolling radius is the same on both both wheels.
Its the same with a space saver wheel.

I know
.... I was joking ie if VVM bought a car with staggered wheels, is he going to buy a spare the same as the front or rear or buy both?

 

[VitoVanMan]

I know
.... I was joking ie if VVM bought a car with staggered wheels, is he going to buy a spare the same as the front or rear or buy both?

I guess ,if I had staggered rims on the vehicle, ie. larger on the rear, then I would be looking at running a dragster and SAAB's tend not to come in dragster format.
However back in the day, I owned a 1967 1500 VW Beetle and endeavoring to spruce it up bought a set of 15" Cosmic alloys and that improved the appearance.
Then I had the opportunity to buy a couple of 17" Cosmic rims and tyres, which fitted perfectly under the rear wings, so now I did have the dragsteresk car,
this was fun to drive, particularly in the snow, going sideways down the street.
So the spare wheels were two 15". Luckily I never had a puncture in the vehicle.....!!!!!!!!

 

[AndySlade]

I guess ,if I had staggered rims on the vehicle, ie. larger on the rear, then I would be looking at running a dragster and SAAB's tend not to come in dragster format.
However back in the day, I owned a 1967 1500 VW Beetle and endeavoring to spruce it up bought a set of 15" Cosmic alloys and that improved the appearance.
Then I had the opportunity to buy a couple of 17" Cosmic rims and tyres, which fitted perfectly under the rear wings, so now I did have the dragsteresk car,
this was fun to drive, particularly in the snow, going sideways down the street.
So the spare wheels were two 15". Luckily I never had a puncture in the vehicle.....!!!!!!!!

Did your beetle have the washer bottle pressurised from the spare wheel like mine did? That and the switching relay on the headlights that meant that you always pulled lever towards you to go from main beam to dipped and vice-versa. Almost gassed myself when the exhaust heat exchangers were corroded and leaking exhaust gasses straight into car.

 

[sonic]

Did your beetle have the washer bottle pressurised from the spare wheel like mine did? That and the switching relay on the headlights that meant that you always pulled lever towards you to go from main beam to dipped and vice-versa. Almost gassed myself when the exhaust heat exchangers were corroded and leaking exhaust gasses straight into car.

I had two a 1961 1200cc & a 1966 1300cc, both great cars never went wrong.
The first one didn't have a fuel gauge, just a main & reserve leaver by your foot.

 

[Rockron]

Some reckon the best tool they carry for a wheel change is Breakdown Recovery Insurance!

As a first response an aerosol can of Holts Tyreweld (apparently washes out ie not gungy) could quickly get you out of a dangerous situation and let you deal with the wheel/tyre somewhere in safety.
Some manufacturers advise not to lube wheel bolts, as they can be easily overtorqued, and should be just clean rust free and torqued dry.
In France you are not permitted to carry out roadside repairs anywhere on the Autoroutes including hard shoulder. Rescue Service Only.

 

[VitoVanMan]

Did your beetle have the washer bottle pressurised from the spare wheel like mine did? That and the switching relay on the headlights that meant that you always pulled lever towards you to go from main beam to dipped and vice-versa. Almost gassed myself when the exhaust heat exchangers were corroded and leaking exhaust gasses straight into car.

Those early washer bottles needed great care, not to over do the air pressure. The later models ( the 12 volt versions) used the spare wheel to keep the pressure in the washer bottles.
Those heat exchangers were a prime target for corrosion....I used to have a lot of folk asking me to look at the heaters in their beetles come winter. First port of call was the piano wire heater cables, they usually snapped at the control levers on the exchangers, which had seized up.....then it was the condition of the actual heat exchanger....holes in the exhaust part of the exchanger and finally the tin work surrounding exhaust section. So it was usually an engine out job to access the heat exchangers. Then the choice of replacing with spurious ill fitting parts or getting out the oxy-acetylene gas welder on the case and rebuilding with fresh metal to make them as good as new.
I bought this set when I qualified at college in the early 70's and part of the course was welding....I still use the same gun although the gauges and pipe work has been replaced, as I am still using it to weld up the exhaust on the Vito,as I take it off for every MOT and find its the pipe work over the rear half shaft and bends in the pipe work that attracts corrosion and hole development. So in nineteen years of owning the Vito, I have only fitted two complete exhausts.