Winter Storage 420 SL

[EricR]

Hello good people,

I have a '89 420 SL which I bought in Sept this year. I didn't want to drive it over the winter months because of salt and grit on the roads so is now parked in my dry but unheated garage.

I'm planning on using the SL from about April onwards so it will have been stored for about 5 months.

I have a proper car cover on it on but I haven't done anything in the way of general preparation for storage.

Can anyone give a quick guide on what's essential to do?

Eric

 

[lindowkid]

Good question I was thinking of doing something similar, rumour has it that lowering the tyre pressure, putting it up on axle stands, draining the petrol tank, disconnecting the battery are a good start. What I don't know is what to do beyond that. I've read that emptying the oil from the engine or adding an addative is recommended. Maybe someone can enlighten some more... :?:

 

[talbir]

Here's my suggestions :

(1) Before parking up, fill tank to the brim with petrol - this will ensure that no condensation develops in the fuel tank.

(2) Before parking up, drive car for a good half-hour, so that exhaust is pipng hot and completely dry. This will prevent water sitting in the exhaust piping and prevent process of rusting.

(3) Once car is parked, connect a trickle charger to the battery. Leave the battery connected up, just connect a trickle charger to it. These replace the small drain caused by alarm system and clock etc. They are perfectly safe to leave running 24hrs a day, as they only replace the charge drained.

(4) Ideal to have car sitting on axle stands to prevent deforming of tyre, to keep it true.

(5) If you have air con in the car, start up car every 2 weeks, open the windows and switch on the air-con for approx 10-15mins. This will keep the system well lubricated and prevent gas leakage. Having windows down ensures that air-con continuously runs, otherwise internal temp sensor will switch off once desired temp is reached.

(6) Once every month, good idea to just work all the gadgets on the car, i.e. all 4 windows, electric roof, heater, wipers, etc etc. Best to keep everything working and ticking over, especially mechanical bits like windows and roof.


Don't drain the oil from the engine whatever you do - empty chamber may develop condensation and rust process will be accelerated. Forget about adding any additives too. Best to leave the car 'on Standby'. Ensure you have enough antifreeze in the coolant too - prevents corrosion in the rad.

 

[ediforrestc]

MBZ Storage.

To all that are interested. Some of the information that you require on storing your prized MBZ can be found in the Mercedes enthusiast magazine, November 03 issue 25 page 81. I have read it but its all common sence really, so if your all sitting comfortably then I will begin..... Start by cleaning the garage and putting in some form of heating and a dehumidifier or put the car into a protective cacoon. (permabag) or (hamilton classic) at £279 to £299 depending on size. If the car is to be stored outside then repair any body or paint damage before the winter. Thoroughly wash and polish the car and make sure it's bone dry before its hibernation. A thorough clean inside is also a must and remove anything that can go off, open the windows very slightly to allow air to circulate. Run the car every couple of weeks just to keep things ticking over and run the air con for at least 15 minutes. Leave the handbrake off to prevent the brakes from sticking and if you have a manual gearbox then wedge the clutch pedal down for the same reason. Ensure that the tyres are properly inflated so that flat spots don't occur. A full and comprehensive service is wise but if funds are limited then at least change the oil and filter. I don't remove the battery because I have a tracker fitted and its just too much hassel resetting everything. Dont't fill the tank up with fuel as this can go off over a period of time. And keep the car taxed and insured for those short winter runs. I have been doing this for the past 2 winters and my car looks as good as the day I bought it. Hope this helps Ta ta for now. Craig.

 

[107SL300]

I DO ROUGHLY WHAT TALBIR SAID,EVERY WINTER.BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THE ONLY DIFFERENCE I DO. IS SIT THE CAR ON SOME OLD MERC STEEL WHEELS/TYRES,THE ALLOYS THEN SIT IN MY LOFT ''UPRIGHT'',IF YOU LIE THEM ON TOP OF EACH OTHER IT SOFTENS THE SIDE WALLS.........JUST BEFORE YOU START THE CAR,IN SPRING DROP THE OIL AS ALL THE DIRT HAS HAD 6 MTHS TO DROP TO THE BOTTOM, THE SUMP PLUG IS MAGNETIC AND CATCHES ANY SLIGHT METALLIC BITS,SO WASH IT WITH PETROL,CHANGE THE FILTER,SUMP PLUG BACK IN,NEW OIL,WHEELS BACK ON,START IT,LEAVE IT STOOD RUNNING FOR A WHILE CHECKING PRESSURES ETC...... AWAY WE GO,NOT TOO FAST CHECKING BRAKES A.S.A.P AS THE DISCS WILL BE COVERED IN RUST......KEEP LOCAL FOR THE NEXT 50 MILES..........

IF ITS AN SL LIKE MINE,STAND IT WITH THE SOFTOP ON....

FILLING THE PETROL TANK ALSO STOPS THE INSIDES RUSTING

ALL THE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!