worn torx bolt on caliper......

[Ammer Rahim]

hi everyone,

Ive been on a bit of a mission lately with my latest project.
I have been looking at the brakes of the CLK 430 (2000) and I have managed to do one side with considerable ease but the other side...... when I came to remove the two torx bolts from the caliper, one of them just slips ::-?. The tool when inserted into the bolt just slips. It seems as though they should have been replaced and weren't. What is the best way to remove this bolt with out causing any damage to the caliper ?

Many Thanks.
Ammer

 

[television]

The bolts that hold them on are normally 7mm hex key, and not torx

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GA=722.632&CT=F&cat=45Y&SID=42&SGR=030&SGN=01

 

[2_stroke]

try it with some grips, or heat it up (but not too much as you are on a calliper) and smack a socket on it using an ammer

 

[television]

try it with some grips, or heat it up (but not too much as you are on a calliper) and smack a socket on it using an ammer

Sadly you cant do that it is inside a tube

 

[wireman]

If you are very handy with an electric drill try drilling the head off the bolt, use a small (2mm or so) pilot drill to start off making sure that you are as near to its centre and perpendicular to its axis as is possible to cut the first few millimetres. Then use an 10 or so millimetre drill to remove the bolt head. After the head is off you can remove the calliper and use grips on what's left of the bolt or drill that out bit by bit very carefully.

Dont use to big a pilot drill or the accuracy of your initial drilling will be lost as the larger drills try to wander about.

There will most likely be locking compound on the bolt, once the thing is in bits a bit of heat on the bolts remains will help release the stuff, about 150-200C will shift loctite.

If you are not to confident in your ability to be precise get some body else to do it.

 

[mattkh]

There will most likely be locking compound on the bolt, once the thing is in bits a bit of heat on the bolts remains will help release the stuff, about 150-200C will shift loctite..

Hi
If loctite has not been used, then will applying the heat to the bolt make the bolt expand AND get tighter ?

 

[television]

This bolt is inside a tube that has a rubber cap on to keep the dirt out, using the correct good quality 7mm hex key it still may come out, this is a standard fitting on ATE callipers

 

[MB TECH WARRINGTON]

I Had A Similar Problem, The Problem Lied In The Fact That As The Pads Had Worn So Much The Pin/bolt Had Slid Really Far In, It Was The Rubber Tubing Whichh Was Stopping The Socket From Staying In, Pushing The Socket Back Out, I Just Cut A Small Section Of The Rubber Tubing Off And Hey Presto, I Could Get Socket On Easily And Bolt Undone First Go, See If This Could Be Your Problem,

 

[Ammer Rahim]

Hi Chaps,

Lots of useful tips, Thanks......... I think Ill try the correct size tool first, then move along to the drilling. I think which ever way you look at it, it's gonna come off.....one way or another, but will definately be replacing all the bolts !!

Many thanks
Ammer

 

[Ammer Rahim]

Hi Malcolm,

Its just occured to me that the protective sleeve on this 7mm hex bolt is marked as a separate part on a diagram which you sent me earlier, I think it is marked as item (11) can this item be bought on its own ?
If so then why not cut it off and use a socket to remove the 7mm hex bolt! If the sleeve is not expensive it might be worth while doing.

Thanks Malcolm

 

[television]

There is no easy way around this one, the sleeve as I called it , is a standpipe cast on to the caliper . even if you drill off the head, it still will not come off as the stem would stop it, this stem is about 1½" long, so you cant drill it either.

I am hoping that the correct 7mm hex key will remove it, these things do not rust as there is a rubber bung in the end to keep water out.

If it does not come out with the correct key, lets talk about whats next then

 

[David Nock]

I Had A Similar Problem, The Problem Lied In The Fact That As The Pads Had Worn So Much The Pin/bolt Had Slid Really Far In, It Was The Rubber Tubing Whichh Was Stopping The Socket From Staying In, Pushing The Socket Back Out, I Just Cut A Small Section Of The Rubber Tubing Off And Hey Presto, I Could Get Socket On Easily And Bolt Undone First Go, See If This Could Be Your Problem,

Interesting Capitalisation Skills In This Post MB Tech.

 

[Dosco]

What about using a stud extractor?

 

[television]

What about using a stud extractor?

You would never get it in there, and nothing to get hold of

 

[roofless]

a good socket type hex like this can take a hit with a hammer to shock the stud & get it in fully

 

[exeng]

If all else fails you drill the m9 thread from the rear that way you only have to drill around 10m/m deep but make sure you drill it in the middle

 

[MB TECH WARRINGTON]

Interesting Capitalisation Skills In This Post MB Tech.

The real skill was being able to type that well on new years eve at that time, ha, me thinks i may have left caps lock on,

 

[David Nock]

The real skill was being able to type that well on new years eve at that time, ha, me thinks i may have left caps lock on,

No, Caps Lock would have capitalised ALL. Methinks bottle caps unlocked!

 

[kebo57]

a good socket type hex like this View attachment 6337 can take a hit with a hammer to shock the stud & get it in fully

I recon the above is best someone mentioned 7mm torx bit our allen type head so drill from the back 7mm hole about 10mm deep then hammer a 7mm allen key socket in the hole see pic Attachment 6337

Kevin

 

[MB TECH WARRINGTON]

No, Caps Lock would have capitalised ALL. Methinks bottle caps unlocked!

try posting with caps on, it just gives you a capital letter at the beginning of each word.