Help needed! C180 Kompressor 55reg W203 auto

[Arudge]

Star asked if the misfire was present on the original engine? Also, did the replacement engine come complete with the induction system, supercharger and usual ancineries like the alternator?

 

[Dave wood]

Star asked if the misfire was present on the original engine? Also, did the replacement engine come complete with the induction system, supercharger and usual ancineries like the alternator?

From earlier! (So I have a new cam magnet here as this was bough for the old engine! Reason being was my engine managment light came on before the chain slipped the firstime round and the dyagnostics told me it was bank 1 crankshaft position sensor so I bought and replaced but still the issue was there! Then after this the timing chain slipped and all my troubles started.

Anyways I then find out after that it is common that when the timing chain is on its way out it shows as a crankshaft sensor!(Always the way)-)

Reading this again there was also a few occasions where my old engine went into limp mode but after being switched off for a short while it reset it's self! There was a misfire but I'm assuming this was where the chain had slipped! I'm sure I've mentioned this!

The engine came with supercharger, inlet manifold, vaccum pump (the pump I posted pic of) injectors and rail a little pipework (that would normally come with an engine that's been pulled out to sell oh and the N/S engine mount lol.

I had to put my inlet manifold on as they were slightly different and wasn't compatable. (Missing section for vaccum pipe to attach), supercharger was left on but the rest of the ancillary's starter, alternator, vacuum pump, ect was from my engine.


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[Arudge]

Just needed to straighten things in my own mind.

 

[Dave wood]

Just needed to straighten things in my own mind.

Got ya!

I know I'm not going to get a star on the car anytime soon as it's Xmas So where in ur experience would be the best place to start my adventure and which order? I have a couple if weeks to kill so I'm gonna make use of the time



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[Arudge]

You had issues before you old engine blew up, so this is more likely to be electrically based. But because the engine you have is a complete unknown, and we can't discount the possibility that your replacement is any better than the original. i think we should do a few basic checks first.

Unfortunately my experience lies with the M111 engine although there is a lot of shared design. Yours is the M271 which has a terrible reputation for cam chains, and on that basis we should start there.

Firstly, check the compression. A simple compression check speaks volumes, anything above 140 psi at engine cranking speed (cold and all plugs out) should be ok. More importantly, are all the readings the same?

Check the cam timing. Set the crank to TDC (Top Dead Centre) and remove the cam cover. Lets see where the cam timing marks are and ensure we haven't skipped a tooth. please post your images.

After that, remove and inspect your cam chain tensioner. I believe yours is buried behind the alternator, which is also an opportunity to check the connections to the alternator. Again, post images of the tensioner so we can see how far the tensioner is extended. This in turn will tell us how knackered the cam chain is.

With the alternator removed you can check the connectors, particularly the regulator wire. The regulator wire is housed in a two pin plug that plugs into the back of the alternator and basically tells the alternator when to come off charge. Check both the pin and socket are nice and clean, it won't hurt to bend the pins that are in the alternator everso slightly, this forces the pin into the socket but be careful. if you can't refit the plug with normal pressure, you've bent them too much, bend them back and try again. Be careful not to snap them off, if in doubt leave them alone, just clean them.

Once we have established that the engine you have isn't going to blow up as well, we can then move on, but there's enough there to work your Christmas lunch off!!

 

[Dave wood]

You had issues before you old engine blew up, so this is more likely to be electrically based. But because the engine you have is a complete unknown, and we can't discount the possibility that your replacement is any better than the original. i think we should do a few basic checks first.

Unfortunately my experience lies with the M111 engine although there is a lot of shared design. Yours is the M271 which has a terrible reputation for cam chains, and on that basis we should start there.

Firstly, check the compression. A simple compression check speaks volumes, anything above 140 psi at engine cranking speed (cold and all plugs out) should be ok. More importantly, are all the readings the same?

Check the cam timing. Set the crank to TDC (Top Dead Centre) and remove the cam cover. Lets see where the cam timing marks are and ensure we haven't skipped a tooth. please post your images.

After that, remove and inspect your cam chain tensioner. I believe yours is buried behind the alternator, which is also an opportunity to check the connections to the alternator. Again, post images of the tensioner so we can see how far the tensioner is extended. This in turn will tell us how knackered the cam chain is.

With the alternator removed you can check the connectors, particularly the regulator wire. The regulator wire is housed in a two pin plug that plugs into the back of the alternator and basically tells the alternator when to come off charge. Check both the pin and socket are nice and clean, it won't hurt to bend the pins that are in the alternator everso slightly, this forces the pin into the socket but be careful. if you can't refit the plug with normal pressure, you've bent them too much, bend them back and try again. Be careful not to snap them off, if in doubt leave them alone, just clean them.

Once we have established that the engine you have isn't going to blow up as well, we can then move on, but there's enough there to work your Christmas lunch off!!

Andy thank you for the info I will definitely get onto doing this, I will make a start next week and hopefully be able to get some of this issues eliminated with a little determination (fingers crossed) lol

All pics and discriptions will be posted as I progress.

Again Andy thank you for ur time it's much appreciated!

I hope you all have a great Xmas filled with lots of love and joy and a prosperous New year!

Peace out!

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[Dave wood]

Ok so thought I'd make a start today and as I start by removing the spark plugs I now find oil on 1 of the 4 plugs! (This wasn't there before)

SO NOW THIS CHANGES EVERYTHING!

piston, oil seal???


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[Dave wood]

Here are the pics!

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[Dave wood]

Pictures!!

I posted the pics Andy

Pic of spark plug with oil.
Pic of over head view of head
Closer pic of spark plug cavity

3 plugs were nice and dry this one was covered in oil

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[Arudge]

[QUOTE="Dave wood, post: 1585436, member: 87561"
piston, oil seal???
[/QUOTE]
No. This oil has come from the outside, the plug tip is still clean and a good colour. Is it possible this oils has crept in as you have been stripping stuff off?

 

[Arudge]

I posted the pics Andy

We must have both posted at the exact same time!! I thought i deleted mine in time!!

 

[Dave wood]

Phew... thank u Andy.

I have managed to get a mates brother to compression test my car now!

So he's here but hasn't got long so will keep u posted!

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[Dave wood]

We must have both posted at the exact same time!! I thought i deleted mine in time!!

typical!!
Chat soon

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[Arudge]

Is that a bit of broken gasket?

 

[Dave wood]

It dosnt seem to be!

I've cleaned up around it and it (seems) ok.

I've thought the oil may have leaked from the oil cap as u can see in the pic one is no good the spark I have is good so I'll change these seals over along with the cap and go from there

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[Arudge]

It dosnt seem to be!

It was just the light.

 

[Arudge]

Testing the integrity of the induction system.

The induction system has to be airtight, firstly because all the air entering the engine needs to be metered by the maf and secondly because when the supercharger comes on boost the whole induction system goes from vacuum to pressure, and you don't want to be losing any of that precious boost pressure!!

The induction system needs to be airtight from the supercharger through to the cylinder head, including the intercooler, all the pipework and the inlet manifold.

When i tested mine the engine stalled in such a position that no air got past the cylinder head. That means to say that either the inlet valve was shut, or if open, the exhaust valve opposite was closed. so far so good.

I then unconnected a joint on the pipework as close to the supercharger as reasonably possible, and sealed it with cling film and insulation tape. I then selected a pipe that was going into the inlet manifold and connected my airline, set at 15psi, and pumped the system full of air. i saw the clingfilm bulge at the end of the pipework and immediately hear the hissing of a leak. in my case a pipe under the inlet manifold that had dropped off and a failed 'o' ring on the throttle body.

This will also test the one way valves that stop pressure leaking through the vacuum pump, and stop pressure entering the brake servo as the inlet manifold changes from vacuum to pressure.

I effected repairs and never saw the manifold pressure warning code again.