Remote Roof Module R230 CMR230 Installation question

[television]

I also think that maybe its because left footwell/X3015 and rear/X3017 are not directly connected to each other?

I did test the line on passenger side and that was a solid 12V also.

The diagrams shows how everything is connected now, that works, I think whether you connect in the rear or in the right/driver footwell, you will end up with a setup shown in the second diagram:

look at the picture I put up in about post 15, they are all in parallel, you are now plugged into the same wire that was on the passenger side, and you are on the other end of it.

 

[imkaz]

I can't see how the branches are connected other than both going through X3016. What am I missing?

I've attached a pciture of this...

 

[television]

That is the rear connection, where the X3016 joins to X3017, the brown/black links every one the X3015,16 and 17 connector blocks together. you problem was with the live and not a true live as such. The only main live is the fat red one that is reversed on RHD cars.

When I get another module I will put it in the rear X3017 block as that red wire feeds the rear SAM.

Still you are all working, I will post again when I have done mine again.

 

[imkaz]

Good stuff. I am now shopping for the neccessary connectors to clean up the install a bit, I think for the future will want to have it in the rear compartment aswell.

Just realised I've been spelling your name wrong also, sorry!

 

[television]

The odd thing is, the instructions on the one that I had before also gave the instruction for mounting in the rear, I would love to remember who bought it

Maybe it was because the rear side panel needed to come off to do a good job, as not much room to work. but although simple for me, if you have not done it then not so simple.

Do not wear out the rood now yours is done by driving up and down the road putting it up and down. Only Joking

There is not one on Ebay right now, and no I would not buy the other expensive one.

 

[imkaz]

The car is completely undriveable at the moment, carpet up on both sides, trim everywhere CAN connectors not locked in place, accelerator pedal isnt even connected. Roofs been up and down twice already!

I'm actually going to keep doing roof only while stationary, I can just imaging hitting a bump, and the roof coming out of place and being locked half-way open\closed, would be almost as bad as the other night!

Didnt you say you sold your unit to Ian?

 

[imkaz]

Malcolm not sure if you are getting my PMs because my sent messages show as empty, but there is an active auction with about 5 hours left, if you PM my an email\number I can send you a link to the auction!

 

[imkaz]

Videos!

Top Down - https://youtu.be/DbJJAx-6zug
Top Up! - https://youtu.be/vgUXejHPkaE

 

[television]

The car is completely undriveable at the moment, carpet up on both sides, trim everywhere CAN connectors not locked in place, accelerator pedal isnt even connected. Roofs been up and down twice already!

I'm actually going to keep doing roof only while stationary, I can just imaging hitting a bump, and the roof coming out of place and being locked half-way open\closed, would be almost as bad as the other night!

Didnt you say you sold your unit to Ian?

Not to Ian, but when he came to see me I am sure he had one in the rear.

Thanks for the PM and I have put in a bid. I may as well complete this one

 

[television]

Talking about the use of this module now, pleased to see that you have given some thought on this as well.

No I would never use it at speeds of 30MPH, if it is raining and the top is down, rain does not really come in till you slow right down. So when slowing at traffic lights or a rounderbout I would then operate the roof closing as one can slay going slow as you pull away. Many other motorist love to watch the roof going up or down so no problems there, its all over in 20 seconds anyway.

Yes with a head wind even at so MPH, I feel there must be some strain on the boot lid, it is no more than a giant spoiler/ air brake when opened backwards.

 

[Devonian]

Guys FYI I have just refitted mine in the fuse box behind the drivers seat so can confirm it works from there. It's trial and error to find which is the correct can plug but once found all is well.

The key is to connect the can bus before connecting the power to the module, then try to activate it if you leave the module powered when swapping the can plugs it will not work


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[television]

Guys FYI I have just refitted mine in the fuse box behind the drivers seat so can confirm it works from there. It's trial and error to find which is the correct can plug but once found all is well.

The key is to connect the can bus before connecting the power to the module, then try to activate it if you leave the module powered when swapping the can plugs it will not work


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Yes the connections are in parallel for the whole CAN bus, it will work from either side or the rear providing you have the correct 12 volt plus wire.

Handy to know to join up the CAN wires first then power it up I got one on Ebay today to replace the one I sold on (thanks imkas) it will go into the rear box as I want to pull off the stainless sill covers and put them on the polishing machine.

I will post back with the install.

 

[Devonian]

Yes it's a bit of a pain disconnecting the power each time ( I put a switch in series) then tried each can wire in turn. The process is. Switch off the power, connect CAN, reconnect power, ignition to position 2 then hold the phone hang up for 3 seconds to activate the unit if you don't get the tone then repeat until you find the correct one


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[imkaz]

Thanks for that Devonian, refreshing the power to the module was where I believe I was going wrong.

The issue I had yesterday is that after leaving he car a while, I unlock the car and there's a visit workshop error with a picture of the roof. It goes away when the module is reset which I have to do by disconnecting both batteries, as I don't have a switch installed :-(

Speaking to the seller he believes that thin purple/red wire I connected to, as per the instructions, probably got switched off when the car goes to sleep and isn't a true 12v.

So Devonian, Television which wire did you think is an all the time live 12v?

The seller is now saying that the thick red/green line in, position 2 in the SmartTop manual, is an a proper 12v line! Which just so happens to be the line I used when I spent a couple days in the passenger football!

 

[television]

Thanks for that Devonian, refreshing the power to the module was where I believe I was going wrong.

The issue I had yesterday is that after leaving he car a while, I unlock the car and there's a visit workshop error with a picture of the roof. It goes away when the module is reset which I have to do by disconnecting both batteries, as I don't have a switch installed :-(

Speaking to the seller he believes that thin purple/red wire I connected to, as per the instructions, probably got switched off when the car goes to sleep and isn't a true 12v.

So Devonian, Television which wire did you think is an all the time live 12v?

The seller is now saying that the thick red/green line in, position 2 in the SmartTop manual, is an a proper 12v line! Which just so happens to be the line I used when I spent a couple days in the passenger football!

Yes as earlier that very thick red feeds all the rear SAM fuse box for the roof and PSE pump. If ever you want an ignition switched feed for 12 volt the bleu/white fuel pump relay is the one to use and the one often used by trackers.

Thank you so much for that link,,I had spent an hour searching Ebay and it brought up nothing, so fun and games soon after I have done the front roof knock mod. How did you find it please.

 

[imkaz]

Yes as earlier that very thick red feeds all the rear SAM fuse box for the roof and PSE pump. If ever you want an ignition switched feed for 12 volt the bleu/white fuel pump relay is the one to use and the one often used by trackers.

Thank you so much for that link,,I had spent an hour searching Ebay and it brought up nothing, so fun and games soon after I have done the front roof knock mod. How did you find it please.

No problem! I found it by searching just for "r230 roof module" I think I missed it like you did because I always searched with remote aswell. It's probably the reason why it doesn't go for more money to, because other modules even second hand ones go for over £150, so probably keep in hush hush ;-)

I'm not sure how comfortable I'd be splicing into the ignition relay, and that thick red line is much too thick to wire tap off, is there another 12v line that is always on, even when the cars completely sleeping?

 

[television]

I must look to see if there is a spare fuse holder in the rear box, as I will be needing something to wire into. Yes a shame to interfere with that big red lead

I will post back in the week when I have a spare slot.

 

[imkaz]

Is it getting into the rear fuse box easy to do? Can whoe compartment be removed easily?

 

[television]

To get to the rear box with enough room to work.

Lift up and off the inner sill cover
Pull back the rubber seal all the way to the top after removing the top cover.You need a long flat screw driver to ease the 2 fixing clips from the metal side, if you just pull they could break.
Lift the side panel up from the bottom and the panel lifts out from 2 hooks, do not pull straight out.
The front of the box pulls out from the top and lifts out leaving loads of room with the floor out and lid open.

 

[Devonian]

In the rear fusebox you can take a 12V feed from the red wire with the green stripe that goes to the pink fuse block