Restoring an old 180db Mercedes Benz (Ponton) from 1960. A barn find ?

[om613]

Don't know the Nordic situation re. biodiesel, aka methyl esters, B100 etc.

These are the type of filters. They're around 70 micron, ideal for taking crap out and saving the main filter from blocking. Cheap, so when you see a bit of sediment build up, remove and replace. Only caveat is to use proper pipe and clips or one risks air ingress.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-LARGE...487891?hash=item3cf7351113:g:PrMAAOSwpDdVJ5KI

 

[anyweb]

thanks om613 I will definetly fit one of these prior to the diesel pump (or diesel filter itself), i'm unsure where to place it

but just to be clear, if there is air ingress, what happens then, the car just stops or there is some damage ?

 

[om613]

No damage. You'll see bubbles in the fuel pipe (if it's clear), it'll be harder to start and if it's excessive, down on power as there's not enough fuel supplied.
All easily avoided, so I wouldn't worry about it.

Place it in a convenient engine bay place for access. It should go between the main fuel pipe coming up from the rear and the lift pump.

 

[anyweb]

No damage. You'll see bubbles in the fuel pipe (if it's clear), it'll be harder to start and if it's excessive, down on power as there's not enough fuel supplied.
All easily avoided, so I wouldn't worry about it.

Place it in a convenient engine bay place for access. It should go between the main fuel pipe coming up from the rear and the lift pump.

thanks will do !
today I replaced the dodgy metal on the fuel sender and cleaned it out of all the rust, here's a few photos of that process and my limited skills at metal work

https://www.mb180db.com/2017/06/a-little-metal-work-done-on-the-fuel-sender/

 

[Ken_R]

Not a bad bit of metal work for a first attempt.

Regarding tank testing/repair, and repairing the sender unit, do you have any Kit Car forums in Sweden? Those are who might be more knowledgeable on such subjects.

Just don't desert us. It's interesting to follow the project.

 

[anyweb]

I won't desert you guys, I intend to update you on everything I do with this car even if it means giving up and selling it, but let's see...

For now, I need to think about the acid work, and what protective clothing i need to wear in order to stay safe, do i need to cover everything to be safe, is cloth safe or must i use some rubber/pvc clothing ?

also, I've no idea how long I should leave the acid in the tank, 1, 2 hours ?

once done, I should then add baking soda mixed with water to neutralize it, correct ?

thanks everyone for helping me here !!!

 

[yorkshire1]

do it outside no need to cover anytghing then itll even give your concrete drive a spruce up if youe got one , just go steady pvc type clothing/apron etc best cloth will get eaten also protect eyes .Once cleaned as mentioned before by someone Id look into some sort of paint maybe epoxy if suitableto line the tank as the etched steel will be very raw and will rust like hell even more so if pitted

 

[om613]

Coating the inside of a fuel tank with any sort of paint is a gamble, IMO.
Motorcyclist used to use 'Petseal' to combat tank rust. All well and good until the petrol formulation changed (ethanol addition, was it?), when said sealant turned to goo...blocking the carb jets good and proper.

After acid etching / cleaning a diesel tank (if you must), neutralize with an alkali, swill it out with a bit of diesel, then something heavier (new engine oil) so as to coat it.
When re-installed, fill with up diesel. The oil coating will dissolve, causing zero issues.

 

[anyweb]

so today I purchased some pvc rain coat + trousers and face protection shield, I've got rubber gloves so with all that gear on I should be safe to do the acidic work,

now, i'm not sure how long I should keep the acid in the tank. Any clues ? also, the tank has several holes where pipes were connected and of course the sender hole, so how do I seal those holes effectively against acid so that when i turn the tank over it doesn't come raining down on me (like it did when i was washing the tank and using the nuts and bolts method....)

 

[anyweb]

om613, in relation to adding a diesel fuel filter before the fuel meets the pump, you said place it somewhere prior to that, i had a look at the car today and there's very little room for one, indeed there's already something there called a Fuel Pass Filter, is that adequate ? or should i place one before that ?

also if i do have to add one then how, the fuel lines are metal as far as i can see...

 

[yorkshire1]

yes that is a prefilter some had aluminium housings others glass with a plastic mesh filter inside link to modern equiv

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MONARK-PR...ksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598&_trkparms=aid=222

 

[om613]

Even better then. You have one already and can clean it out.

 

[yorkshire1]

if the prefilter bowl is aluminium give it a good inspection for pinholes and when you refit make sure its sealed properly as they can be prime suspects for letting air into the system
re the tank if youre not going to treat the inside at all and I presume the car wont be a daily driver your best bet will be to make sure the tank is always full to avoid starting the corrosion cycle again,quite a lot of web info regarding lining with the classic motorbike crowd etc youve probably seen it all

 

[anyweb]

if the prefilter bowl is aluminium give it a good inspection for pinholes and when you refit make sure its sealed properly as they can be prime suspects for letting air into the system
re the tank if youre not going to treat the inside at all and I presume the car wont be a daily driver your best bet will be to make sure the tank is always full to avoid starting the corrosion cycle again,quite a lot of web info regarding lining with the classic motorbike crowd etc youve probably seen it all

hi in the diagram above, which bit is the 'prefilter bowl' ?

cheers
niall

 

[yorkshire1]

looks like there were 2 alternative prefilters the bowl is 43 or 49 and the fllter cartridges are either 42 or 47.
41 or 46 are the bowl seals that in your case more than likely need changing as theyll be perished.
when youve cleaned / replaced the components lubricate the new seal and just twist the bowl a bit as you tighten the top wingnut to ensure a good seal

 

[anyweb]

ok so i went to the car today and got the "Pre pass filter" out and cleaned it, what a job to remove, the fuel pipes did not want to loosen and it's a very very awkward spot indeed. More Photos of the job here > https://www.mb180db.com/2017/06/removing-the-pre-pass-filter/

 

[anyweb]

so over the last few days i've done some work on the outside of the tank, half of it at least, before i get ready for the acid treatment of the inside, more about that soon, i've documented what i've done here

https://www.mb180db.com/2017/07/cle...el-tank-and-painting-it-with-anti-rust-paint/

and here's a few photos of that progress,

I have some questions though, the bottom half (outside) of the tank is covered in a tar like gluey paint that was put on to protect it against stone chips and rust, but it's patchy, and i'd like to remove it (safely) so i can treat the bottom half the same way as I've done with the top half.

anyone know a good way of doing that without destroying the tank ?

secondly, once I'm done with the outside I will do the acid treatment (it scares me to be honest), I've bought protective clothing and a face shield and will rubber up, but my worries are as follows

1. How long should i leave the 2 liters of 30% strong Muriatic Acid in the tank ?
2. Can I safely turn the tank over (from one half to the other) and not worry that it will eat through the metal or must I treat each half with acid first then drain, then treat with baking soda+water to neutralize after draining it.

thanks in advance for your advice !

 

[Ken_R]

I have some questions though, the bottom half (outside) of the tank is covered in a tar like gluey paint that was put on to protect it against stone chips and rust, but it's patchy, and i'd like to remove it (safely) so i can treat the bottom half the same way as I've done with the top half.

anyone know a good way of doing that without destroying the tank ?

If you have a 4 1/2" angle grinder then,

will shift it, AND any corroded crud that may be hidden behind it. Don't press too hard, although frankly, we use these all the time, even on 1mm metal, and they do not appear to degrade the base material.

Otherwise,

something like,

which will fit in any drill but will take forever.

I'm inclined to think that with all the money that you have lashed out on chemicals and PPE, you'd have been better spending such on getting the tank to a proper refurbisher, in whatever Country.

 

[anyweb]

the chemicals and ppe have only cost me about 50 euros so far, no big deal, and i couldn't find any place the refurbs tanks in Sweden, I checked (maybe not well enough)

so I will continue doing it myself and hopefully learn something from the process, thanks for the advice, I've both types of wire brush but was concerned that they'd damage the tank in the process

 

[Ken_R]

Don't get me wrong. I'm impressed with your dedication, and your willingness to learn. It is just that sometimes, there is a need to identify what would be better (and, at the end of the day, cheaper) out-sourced.

We refurbish 50/60 year old Railway Carriages.

Cutting out decades of corrosion, not to mention previous 'dubious' repairs (mainly borne of the skills required not being available at the time).

We recently out-shopped, this

and yet to be test-run, and which can also be viewed during the restoration process.