722.9 Transmission Fluid Change Questions

[steveq]

I also use Fuchs engine oils, ATF, manual gearbox oil and differential oils for years now.
I even bought Fuchs grease.

 

[Gazwould]

Yes but only high volume engine oil that don't experience 5 year , 77,500 mile servicing .

 

[steveq]

Yes but only high volume engine oil that don't experience 5 year , 77,500 mile servicing .

With turbos spinning at 100,000 rpm or more and the stresses that the other components operate under, I'd want the best possible lubricants available.

 

[Gazwould]

For the engine I use a higher anti wear spec oil than Mercedes oil spec anyway from Tetrosyl who supply own brand for Asda , Tesco , Sainsbury's , Euro Car Parts Triple QX , G-Force , Carlube and Carlube Triple R .

If it were not up to the job I'd know about it.

I think an original high mileage 2003 turbo and PD camshaft is the judge of that , especially with a MOT one acceration fast pass 0.21 exhaust smoke blow .

All about standardised oil basestock groups especially PAO and Esters and additive package concentration...

 

[Exp21]

Hi does anyone have a technique to determine when the car is perfectly level? I don't have a lift, and floor is not level. Is there a part of the car that is perfectly level to take it as a reference?
And also, after filling the first 6 ltrs of oil and turning on the engine, the torque converter fills itself of oil even if car is in P?
Thank you very much

 

[Wighty]

Hi does anyone have a technique to determine when the car is perfectly level? I don't have a lift, and floor is not level. Is there a part of the car that is perfectly level to take it as a reference?
And also, after filling the first 6 ltrs of oil and turning on the engine, the torque converter fills itself of oil even if car is in P?
Thank you very much

I just use a mini magnetic spirit level on the gearbox sump .

 

[Exp21]

Thank you! But I have some doubts, I'm not sure that if car is level the sump has to be necessarily level too. Probably they are two different things. Probably some parts of the door are level, or entry thresholds. I don't know

 

[Wighty]

Thank you! But I have some doubts, I'm not sure that if car is level the sump has to be necessarily level too. Probably they are two different things. Probably some parts of the door are level, or entry thresholds. I don't know

Maybe , I think you are overthinking it buddy . Using the MK1 eyeball should be good enough

 

[Exp21]

Ok, I'll only check sump leveling thanks buddy

 

[steveq]

I am sure that pretty level is good enough.
All the levelling is doing is making sure that not too much or too little comes out the filler pipe after the 10 litres or so is put in.
If a quarter litre too much or too little comes out it is about 2% - 3% difference out of the 9 litres. I am sure that that is well within the acceptable tolerance.

The TC will be filled as soon as the car is started.

 

[Exp21]

Perfect!! Thank you

 

[Exp21]

Hi again Some questions to be more confident before doing the job:

- First the car must be in N to be able to rotate the engine, right?
- After I fill the first 6 liters, I start the engine in P and the torque converter fills by itself in P? I saw many going through the gears (P,N,R,D) with only 6 liters in the transmission, but I think it's wrong. (It has to be done later with the 9-10 liters inside?)
- Can I do this first start (with 6 liters inside) with the atf pump still attached to the drain screw and its tap off? Or do I have to detach the adapter/tap and close the pan with its drain plug?
- After the first 6L are inside, is the same if (after few minutes running) I turn off the engine to work with more calm, then I turn it on again in P, fill the remaining 4L (with engine running) and wait until it's 45°C while changing gears?

Thank you very much, there's a lot of confusion in both WIS and tutorials around the internet.

 

[steveq]

The car can be in P or N to rotate. It is much easier to have it in P as that is what it will go into automatically as soon as the engine is switched off (presuming you have the column gear shift lever).
I presume you are doing that to expose the TC drain bolt?

I put the full 9-10 litres in before starting it when I did mine. Wait until it is up to temp and then let it spurt out.
I used the iCarsoft OBD reader which shows the gearbox oil temp as it might be more accurate than an infrared thermometer on the sump.

 

[Exp21]

Thank you very much again. I have a w204, so it's a gear knob and I can choose if N or P. Yes, it's to expose TC bolt.
I'll use an Autel to check temperature.
Ok, it seems to me that doing in two steps (6L+4L) or one (10L) it's the same. Anyway, engine can be turned on with the adapter/tap attached to the sump, right? Thanks again

 

[Wighty]

Thank you very much again. I have a w204, so it's a gear knob and I can choose if N or P. Yes, it's to expose TC bolt.
I'll use an Autel to check temperature.
Ok, it seems to me that doing in two steps (6L+4L) or one (10L) it's the same. Anyway, engine can be turned on with the adapter/tap attached to the sump, right? Thanks again

Yes to the engine on with the adapter on the sump

 

[Jim2]

The car can be in P or N to rotate. It is much easier to have it in P as that is what it will go into automatically as soon as the engine is switched off (presuming you have the column gear shift lever).
I presume you are doing that to expose the TC drain bolt?

I put the full 9-10 litres in before starting it when I did mine. Wait until it is up to temp and then let it spurt out.
I used the iCarsoft OBD reader which shows the gearbox oil temp as it might be more accurate than an infrared thermometer on the sump.

First step for me in any draining situation, be it engine, transmission or axle is to carefully collect the drained liquid. So drain the trans sump, then remove the electric pump,and drain the TC replace the pump,new filter and sump pan, refill with new fluid to match the drained qty. Start engine, brakes on, in P, and cycle through all the gears including sports mode, leaving it in each gear minimum 6 seconds . Do this several times. Then when the oil temperature reaches the correct temperature ( 5speed=80c, 7speed,= 45c) open the drain valve and allow the excess fluid to drain, if no fluid emerges, pump in more until the correct level is reached. Job done. As mentioned in previous post, temperature is best checked using iCarsoft or similar. Its far more accurate.

 

[Exp21]

Thanks to all of you for these details

 

[Exp21]

Hi everyone. One thing is not clear in all the youtube videos neither in wis. If I fill the 6 litres first, start the engine a minute or two to fill the converter, then can I turn off the engine to refill the other 4 litres with calm? Then restart the engine, go through the gears and then check oil level? Thank you

 

[Jim2]

As I mentioned in my post, collect all of the drained oil,from both trans and Torque Converter and measure the qty. Then pump the exact same amount back into the transmission. Start engine in P with foot brake engaged ,and cycle through the gears several times , delaying maybe 20-25 seconds in each gear. Then just follow the remaining steps as I outlined in my original post, Good luck

 

[EmilysDad]

As I mentioned in my post, collect all of the drained oil,from both trans and Torque Converter and measure the qty. Then pump the exact same amount back into the transmission. ....

That assumes that the previous person had put the correct amount of ATF in the box .... Never assume