1.8 kompressor exhaust manifold

[dvm]

Hi
Is it a straight forward job to remove the exhaust manifold on a 2003 1.8 kompressor (271 engine I think) or are their some trip ups? I want to look at the condition of a fully open exhaust valve, particularly the valve stem on no3 cylinder. I will have to turn the engine by hand to orientate the valve, can I do this?

 

[BlackC55]

Why do you want to look at the valve. Have you comprssion issues?

 

[dvm]

this is a sideways follow up to me having sticky valves due to short journies as previous post. I believe that it is possible that the exhaust valve stem may have a deposit around it that stops it complelely returning to shut.

 

[dvm]

Is there nobody that can help with the removing the exhaust manifold question?

 

[Uncle Benz]

There is a common problem with 271 series engines involving a valve seat. From memory I think this usually affects the number 2 cylinder. Are you counting from the front or the back??

If you do have a sticky valve, I would think it more likely to be an inlet valve at fault. Have you carried out a cylinder leakage test??

Removing the exhaust manifold would give you a view of the valve and stem, but be aware that the pressed steel manifolds often distort when removed leading to problems when refitting...

 

[dvm]

Thanks for the tip off concerning the manifold, I think I will leave that alone. I was counting the cylinder numbers from the front backwards towards the passenger compartment. No I haven't done a leakage test, is this done with a compression gauge? the main dealer has told me I have a problem with no 3 cylinder following a check for idle probs (fault code 0203 or 203 I think) I had in desperation planned to gain access to the valve stem and try to clean it gently with some fine emery cloth. Any ideas how to solve sticky valves will be embraced with enthusiasm considering the alternative of a £3500 head swap at the dealers grrr

 

[dvm]

Thank you UNCLE BENZ I just priced an exhaust manifold with the dealer and its £317 + VAT OUCH! so can't afford that todistort on disassembly, what happened to old fashioned cast iron?

 

[BlackC55]

You wont be able to clean the valve so it will stop the problem that you have.

You MUST get a cylinder leakage test done. It will point you to the problem straight away.

I doubt a sticking valve is the cause. It is probably the sealing of the valve seat problem that is well talked about.

Intead of a dealer doing it why don't you let a specialist have a look. It would be half the cost.

Maybe someone can direct you to one near you?

 

[dvm]

OK advice taken, I have booked a leakage test for next Friday so we will see what happens. I have looked around the site but not seen much comment about inlet valve problems on this engine, are they well known on this engine?

 

[BlackC55]

Yes. So far I have replaced 3 heads and repaired 1. (under MB warranty) The first method was to repair them. Now the recomended repair from MB is to replace the head. But I would still repair it if it was my own car as replacement is unecssary in my opinion if the car is no longer under warranty.

 

[dvm]

Found the thread that tells me about this problem, I was looking for 'sticky valves' but it appears the problem actually lies with the seats. The thread mentioned a technical exchange document (AF01.30-P-2400A) Can somebody tell me what a technical exchange document is? It mentioned altering the sensibility threshold and then flash the engine management ECU. Did the average dealer mechanic ought to understand that?