1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for? - Purchase of 260E

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G4VSQ

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Hello all, this is my first post!

I am very interested in buying a used Mercedes 260E saloon. It's "D" reg, 1987, and has covered 138,000 miles. The price is good (under £2000). The car looks really good in a grey/silver metallic colour with a rather dull blue cloth interior-it's an automatic by the way.

Now the question is...is it a worthwhile buy? The mileage seems very high, although there have only been two previous owners. The first owner kept the car for 12 years and had it serviced at a main dealer regularly up to around the 100, 000 mile mark. The second owner seems to have changed the oil a couple of times (marked in the service book) and not much else.

The car has just passed the MoT, although I did notice that the rear discs juddered when braking at speed, and inspection proved they were ridged-these will be replaced.

The bodywork is really nice except for about 4 small rust blisters-one each on the rear doors where the end of the window sealing strip meets the door. There's also a small one on the roof by the sunroof edge and one on the lower part of the wheel arch. None are bigger than a 10p piece. How much would it cost to repair these? There are more blisters under the bonnet, but I'm sure I can repair these.

The car seems to run quite well, although it was a bit less than perfect to start. The engine block and just underneath the engine in the engine bay is rather oily-not terrible but there does seem to be oil staining form the front top of the engine. However, the coolant seems clean with no trace of oil in it. The engine sounds quite quiet for its mileage. There is no air-con luckily!

The steering felt a bit slack, though nothing terrible. I did notice that when you are stationary there is no or liitle play in the steering when the wheels are straight ahead but when you turn the wheels to left or right lock then there feels like an inch or so play in the steering-is this normal or horrendous? Surely any fault would have been picked up in the MoT, unless it was dodgy!

There didn't appear to be any clicks or droning sounds or knocks from anywhere when I drove the car.

Finally, I revved the engine to check for blue smoke from the exhausts-there wasn't any but I did hear the odd pop in the exhaust-does this mean the fuel injection is set too lean or is it an air leak into the exhaust? The exhaust was relaced at the end of last year by the M-B dealer.

I would be very VERY pleased for any advice you can offer-please excuse the length of this posting but I'm very concerned that I don't buy a complete load of old rubbish-I love the looks of the car and have wanted a Mercedes since I was a lad, so this could be my chance!

Thanks, Al
 

sunil sood

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

sounds like a good car-with a car which is 15 yrs old,you do expect some faults such as the ones you mention-this is a 6 cylinder car,so the power is good and cruising on the motorway would be fun.for under 2 grand ,it in my opinion would be a good buy,but be prepared to spend at least another 500 to put the faults you mentioned right,
good luck.t
 
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G4VSQ

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

Thanks for your reply-yes, I'm expecting and willing to pay a reasonable amount to get the car into good order.

I'm surprised that no one else has commented-come on, help out a newcomer PLEASE!!
 

Richard Moakes

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

Hi,

I just purchased a 1989 300E.

You ought to check the following :

1). When was the transmission oil and filter last changed? It should be done every 36K miles, mine hadn't so I got it done pronto.
2). Make sure that it engages drive and reverse quickly from neutral, and that it does not flare when changing up through the box under normal driving conditions, ie. revs rise up before falling down into the next gear and then thuds into the gear.  Imagine it being like slipping the clutch when changing up a gear in manual and not letting off the throttle.
3). Oil leak from front corner of engine is not really a problem, it is simply a leak from the junction of the upper timing cover and the cylinder head, if it is not too bad then live with it.
4). Check anti roll bar bushes, they are very cheap to replace and will quieten down any knocks from the front.
5). Engine mounts will be shot by that age, you will experience rough idle shaking the bodywork.  My M103 engine shakes a little at idle, they all do, but the engine mounts can make it much worse.
6). If the shock absorbers have not been changed by that age, then they will be totally shot. Mine have done 109K, they pass the bounce test, but a ride in a 80K example has convinced me that my shocks are weakening and need replacement.
7). How has the car been serviced, MB, independant or not at all?  I always use things like brand of tires fitted to give me an indication of how the car has been treated. If the brand of tire is a good one (Michelin etc..), then I am comfortable, however if I don't recognise the tire brand then I wonder what else has been cheapskated.
8). Don't be surprised if it is a hard starter. MB service docs say that up to 4 seconds of cranking the engine should not be cause for concern.

Good luck, I got rid of a 1997 Vauxhall Omega to get this 1989 car, and I don't regret it for a second.

Cheers,

Richard (G1MWI)
 
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G4VSQ

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

Hi Richard, many thanks for your reply.

To reply to your points...
1) The car has a M-B dealer service history to about 100, 000 miles or so. This was during the first
owner's tenure of the car. It then went to someone else who just changed the oil and exhaust/tyres. So I will be getting the car serviced as soon as I get it, to include changing all the fluids.
2) It seems to change gear with no problem at all, certainly no flaring. There is a hint of noise (clang/clink) from the driveline components when engaging D or R from standstill with the parking brake on-hopefully this is only a slightly worn UJ, as there is no noticeable noise or vibration when driving normally. Fingers crossed though...
3) OK about the oil leak, this is helpful. I am prepared to change the head gasket though! There isn't any oil in the water or mayonnaise under the filler cap.
4)/5) And fair enough about the mounts and bushes. I think this will probably form part of the service as well.
6) The shocks-these seem to be a DIY job and aren't too expensive. It handles well and they look newish, so maybe they have been done.
7) The car has a full set of Uniroyal tyres in good shape, 205/55's I think. Whilst these aren't the absolute tops, they are reasonable. My guess is that the original owner (a gentleman who owns a Chinese restaurant) certainly was very propmpt and unstiniting in his maintenance of the car, then the 2nd owner just did the basics. I will have to make up for this and I am happy to spend what it takes to make it superb again.
8) The car fires easily enough but isn't "clean" when starting from cold, that is, it needs some throttle application to get it to idle evenly. When it's warm it's fine, although it may even tick over at too high a speed.

The 260E is the ONLY car I have ever found which is big enough for me. I'm 6ft 8 ins tall, and weigh 18 st! After years of struggling into small cars i think it's time for a change for the better!
 

Stewart Smith

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

Most of us aint experts in your particular model - but less than 2K for a half decent late eighties Merc sounds OK to me - it's not a lot of money nowadays, I reckon I'd take the risk.  
I'm half tempted to downgrade the C-class to something older and release some cash, but I've done too much to it now to get it back to 'as-new' totally standard condition.

p.s. - anyone figured out how to wire a towbar up on a 96C200 yet? Andy? - Gotta feeling I'm gonna blow something electrical up soon.

(Edited by Stewart Smith at 9:10 pm on June 10, 2002)
 

steveperry

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

I don't know how you could check, but I'd also check whether the engine needs a de-coke. My dad got a W124 200 many moons ago as an approved 2nd car from MB and had intermittent power troubles that no MB stealership could find the cause of, theories ranged from faulty auto choke to faulty electrics. In the end it took a dedicated independent MB specialist to indentify the problem. The car had covered less than 50k miles when my dad bought it.

S.
 

Andy

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

Hi all,

Nothing much to add to what has already been said. If you havn't bought it. Then maybe look for a 300e, they are better on fuel. (I know it weird but true). Richards advice is good. If you want it too last. Then look after it. Don't do what every body else does &  leave to the last moment. Then faced with a big bill and faint.

Don't do everything at once neither. Prioritise and don't mess with things that don't need messing with.

Regards

Andy @ www.mercedesservicing.com
 

Arnie

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

Re steering play...

The recirculating ball steering systems are adjustable to remove play. It is normal, by design, to have more play in the off-centre position such that when the play in the near-straight-ahead position (where it wears most) is adjusted out, the steering then does not seize when you turn it (as a result of becoming too tight in th off-centre position).

Careful, though, adjustment usually causes the seals to move and start leaking.
 

JR

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

Al you might also wish the chk the rubber doughnut on the prop
they dont always vibrate before they shatter
this i know from experience
 

Matt Crooke

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

G4,

Re the clunking when moving through D&R, this seems to be a common fault on older mercs. Ive found that rather than quickly flicking into either gear (as i have always done on previous cars) take a bit of time to pass through neutral, that way the annoying clunk dosent happen.

cheers
 

sunil sood

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1987 260E-should I buy/what to look for?

thanks for this useful tip
 
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