1999 Mercedes E280 - Low on power....or maybe not

Adski

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2007
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Location
North West
I knew this would happen. I sign up here, get great advice and then have to pester you all about the slightest thing. So really, it's YOUR fault that I'm having a problem because you're all too damn helpful!

I have a problem - but then sometimes I don't think I do. I'll try and explain it. I'll warn you now, this is long and I have a horrible feeling that I'm in for a big bill but I've been ripped off so many times, I'd like some advice here first. I hope you can help because I really want to keep this car.

My car seems low on power, sometimes. At first I thought I was imagining it - I'd be driving along at 50-60, kickdown, and it would kickdown, but then the car wouldn't seem to move especially fast - it would seem to have little bursts of power and then nothing. Now I could be imagining this but it seemed to be struggling getting up to speed. My reasons for thinking I was going crazy were because it only seemed to do this after kickdown. Flooring it off the line was still powerful as ever and had that nice growl whereas after kickdown...I dunno - it sounded a bit wheezy.

However, last night, I was in the outside lane of a road that merged into one lane further up. (I'm very impatient). I moved off fairly sharpish and it didn't seem to have that much power - it moved, but the Fiesta on the inside lane beat me which, given by this point I had my foot on the floor, indicated that something was wrong. However, on the way home, seemed nice and powerful again.

Now, here's where it gets a bit trickier. The gearbox has started flaring the changes under hard acceleration. It's possible to drive the car smoothly (read slowly) but as soon as you go for it and take it up to high ish revs, it will flare. It's now started holding a gear for a bit too long too so you need too acclerate more just to get it to change up. I'm mentioning this because on the odd occasion in the last couple of days, when I've gone to kickdown, you know when it revs higher before it selects the lower gear? Well it seemed to take FOREVER to do that. I'm almost convinced that this problem is related. Before you say change the ATF, I did it two weeks ago along with the service. Although I'm convinced that the place that did it are incompetent or con-merchants so it may not have been changed properly. If I could prove anything I'd actively try to but I don't fancy my chances. (They never even stamped the service book and I had to go and chase them up - they're a "specialist Prestige and 4x4" place apparently.)

There's more I'm afraid. I knew my car had a thirst for oil. I drive a lot of miles and before yesterday, I'd had to put 3 litres in over 4 months which for me equates to about 15,000 miles. However, yesterday, in light of my recent problems, I checked the oil and to my abject horror, it was BELOW minimum. Yet it had been serviced just 2 weeks ago which means either the garage cocked up (got distracted maybe?) or it's gone through all that oil in two weeks. Both scenarios are very worrying. It took 2 litres yesterday to put it on max btw. However, the car does not burn oil. It's still smooth, no smoke at all and nice and quiet. I noticed that the underneath the engine cover had a bit of oil on too that seemed to be leaking out of the oil filler cap so whether that's related or not I don't know.

Sorry for waffling on. I'm pretty certain that something bad is wrong but on the drive to work this morning I took it nice and easy and you wouldn't think anything was wrong but when you drop a few gears and accelerate, it revs fine but doesn't seem to move in relation to the revs if that makes any sense. And, last but not least, when driving at a certain (high) speed, the revs seem fine and it's as smooth and quiet and possible. The car actually sits at the high motorway speed it usually does just as well as it always does.

I'm very sorry if I've waffled but I could do with some help guys. I'm 22 and I saved up for ages to get a nice big V6 Merc and insure it and everyone (Mum and Dad included) are really pushing me to get rid; I'm worried this is just the excuse they'll need.

Any help/advice or pointers would be very, very much appreciated.

Cheers,

Adam
 

karlefr

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2007
Messages
74
Reaction score
0
Your Mercedes
w213
Hi,
even the handbook states you can use up to one litre of oil per 1000km.

So 3 ltr. for 15,000 mls seems not thirsty at all to me!

Garages sometimes don't fill the proper amount when changing the oil, always check a few days later!

Power and gearbox problems: I do not know!
 

jibcl500

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2005
Messages
6,420
Reaction score
9
Age
57
Location
Cambridgeshire
Your Mercedes
CL500,ML55,SLK280
Adam

you dont say if yours is petrol or diesel. I would suggest you have the air flow meter checked or has the MAF been replaced recently, if so did you fit a none Bosch MAF??? if you did or the MAF isnt a Bosch then it needs to be changed to the correct part.

jib
 
OP
A

Adski

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2007
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Location
North West
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #4
Thanks for the quick replies - that reassures me a little about the oil - I'll keep an eye over it for the next few days.

With regards to the MAF - I'm sure when I thought I had a similar problem when I first got the car (but thought it might have been because of a cold start) someone suggested the MAF but said they can't really be checked and I'd need a new one. How much are we talking about for a new one? If I need to get one then I will - are we thinking that the gearbox "problem" might be something different then?

Thanks again for the speedy replies.

Thanks,

Adam

P.S. - The car is a petrol.
 

jibcl500

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2005
Messages
6,420
Reaction score
9
Age
57
Location
Cambridgeshire
Your Mercedes
CL500,ML55,SLK280
If you unplug the MAF with the engine running and the engine stalls then the MAF is faulty, if it idles but is lumpy then the MAF is ok.
The MAF will have a MB part number on it and also the Bosch part number, rough guess £239 +vat from MB £139 inc Vat from Bosch service centers.
If there is no MB part number on there or Bosch then its a fake from china and this is why your car will be running so badly.
jib
 
OP
A

Adski

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2007
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Location
North West
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #6
Jib,
Thanks very much. Sounds like a test that even I can do! Just out of interest, why would the car stall if the MAF was faulty?

Am I right? Is it something I can do?

Thanks

Adam
 

jibcl500

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2005
Messages
6,420
Reaction score
9
Age
57
Location
Cambridgeshire
Your Mercedes
CL500,ML55,SLK280
Yes its something you can do, assuming you know where the MAF is on your car, if the MAF is ok unplugging it will put the car into limp home mode, if the MAF is faulty the car will possibly already be in limp home mode so unplugging it will cause the car to stall, I only assume it needs a reading from the MAF for the car to assume LHM, if unplugged it throws the car into shut down.
If you get stuck shout.
jib
 
OP
A

Adski

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2007
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Location
North West
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #8
That's an awfully big assumption to make! :p

I think I know where it is actually. I'll give that a go tonight.

Thanks for your help Jib - much appreciated.

Adam
 

jibcl500

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2005
Messages
6,420
Reaction score
9
Age
57
Location
Cambridgeshire
Your Mercedes
CL500,ML55,SLK280
Its a trick I picked up from breaking range rovers, I'd test the air flow meter by unplugging it.
When customers cars come in with MAF problems its the easiest way to test them. Mercedes seem to all sounds the same and drive the same when the MAF has failed.

jib
 

Ian B Walker

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
401
Reaction score
0
Location
Lancashire
Your Mercedes
300td
I have an M reg 124 280TE in my place that has the same symptoms.Took it for a test drive this evening. Car felt flat with short bursts of speed and a gearbox that is on some form of hallucinogenic. Just about to park up and I got a backfire from one pot. Light shines, this has happened to me once before and is sooooooooo cheap to fix. Its the rubber extensions from the coil packs to the plugs that are breaking down. Cost for a rubber bit, about £2. Full set to be ordered in the morning. Customer is reasonably sure its the loom that is duff. I would love to give him a bill for £25 rather than one for £750
 

Glenn Smith

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2004
Messages
186
Reaction score
0
Location
Peterborough, UK.
Its a trick I picked up from breaking range rovers, I'd test the air flow meter by unplugging it.
When customers cars come in with MAF problems its the easiest way to test them. Mercedes seem to all sounds the same and drive the same when the MAF has failed.

jib

Alot depends on what readings are coming from the MAF, on the VW tdi we used to find they run better with the MAF disconected (if faulty) reason for this is the reading from sensor is very low, so ecu responds by reducing fuelling to match measured air flow, result very poor performance (usually no fault recorded either) unplug and ecu sees fault and puts in a theoretic value and fuelling is then based on this and engine speed etc. result is improved performance although far from as good as should be. All of this depends, of course, the type of vehicle and how the ecu is set up to respond to faults and out of spec readings, air flow on a petrol engine is far more critical.
 
OP
A

Adski

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2007
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Location
North West
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #13
Very sorry for the delay - you would not believe the week I'm having!

Anyway, I did jib's MAF test and I think we can rule that out. There's been a slight development though, checked the oil yesterday - three quarters on the disptick. And I only used the car for work and back last week and the 15 miles to Liverpool on the motorway so high speedish but certainly not high miles.

It definitely isn't burning it - well, by that I mean there definitely isn't any coming out of the exhaust.

Someone has suggested an oil breather pipe could potentially be at fault. Is this something I can check myself or am I best leaving it to a garage?

Thanks again for all your help - sorry again for taking so long to get back to you all.

Thanks,

Adam
 


Comand (Europe) Ltd are the leading specialists in supplying and fitting Comand, Linguatronic, Media interface kits, UHI phone, IPod interfaces and much more.
Top Bottom