211 front brakes - what do I need?

jberks

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I will need to change front disks and pads in the very near future so need to put together a shopping list now so I can have the bits sitting around rather than having to pay through the nose because I need there and then.

Looking around at parts sites there are a few bits that are confusing me.

Sites list "MB Brake paste" - is this just grease and if so will a tube of copperslip do (its what I always used on the fords)?

They also list "disk bolts" - should I be replacing them when I change disks or will the old disk bolts be ok to reuse?

On the bolts - I don't own a torque wrench - do I need one and what do I torque the bolts to - or can I do what I normally do and just pinch them up with a socket set?

Finally - where's best to get the parts from and what should I be paying for disks and pads on an E270?
 

television

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rovingHawk

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I don't own a torque wrench - do I need one
I'd strongly recommend one, both for this & for future jobs.

what do I torque the bolts to
Check your manual; as a guide, my R170 needs 110Nm & I'd expect yours to be broadly similar.

RH
 
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jberks

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I'd strongly recommend one, both for this & for future jobs.
Fair point - I'm not averse to getting one but have managed fine without thus far. It seems to be becoming a more important thing these days I guess.

Check your manual; as a guide, my R170 needs 110Nm & I'd expect yours to be broadly similar.
RH
I doubt the manual will list disk change torque settings. Is 110Nm for the disks or the wheel bolts?
 

rovingHawk

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mea culpa- wheel bolts. I'm in a daze & being stupid today. My understanding is that there's a small bolt to hold the disk from dropping on your foot- do it up tight with no specific setting; the wheelbolts do the 'real' securing of the disk.

RH
 
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jberks

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Looking at Euro's site, they list disks by Pagid, SBS and Textar. Good prices but how do you choose?
I've heard of textar (don't know how good they are mind) but not the other 2. Prices vary quite a bit too.
Also they list disks for estate and saloon differently and also some for taxis and some not. The diameter also seems to vary by 0.5mm
Any idea what the difference is and would it really matter for a motorway monkey like me?

On the pads they've got textar at £55.14 which sounds about right to me and probably the ones I'd go for (prefer OE but they don't seem to list any online) , but they've also got pagid at £27.67! - too cheap? are Pagid pads best avoided? Who are Pagid?
I like a bargain but not at the expense of safety!
Any thoughts?

Whilst I'm at it, Malcolm swears by EBC green pads so I thought I'd take a look.
EBC do normal and green pads but they also sell disks. Price wise, EBC disks are cheaper than textar so much so that for the same price as a set of textar brakes (I quite like the idea of getting a set from one manufacturer) , I can get EBC green pads and EBC disks. Again, usual quandry. On the one hand, the disks are too cheap, but on the other EBC are a reputable company...?
 
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television

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EBC make first class well finished products,,and you will not be disappointed.

Yes the disc is something new from them, but like so many other things they could be bought in, but that does not matter.

I bought my V70R disc in Sweden for £10 each and they have been perfect
 

Cole@MBS

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You ask what you need??

A star machine to shut the system off!

Or be brave and go for it, keep them fingers out!!!
 

jibcl500

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Keep an eye on the brake fluid res though pushing the pistons back increases the fluid level and if too high it can spill out over the bulk head area.

No need to disable SBC just ask a small child to push the pistons back so if it does snap back nothing lost eh!!


jib
 

Cole@MBS

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Keep an eye on the brake fluid res though pushing the pistons back increases the fluid level and if too high it can spill out over the bulk head area.

No need to disable SBC just ask a small child to push the pistons back so if it does snap back nothing lost eh!!


jib


Nasty sod!!!!
 
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jberks

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Thanks guys. No dwarfs round here, will a small chav do? (I think the local estate shops do them - always seems to be a healthy stock parked outside anyway).

I'm going to dis both batteries and then pump the pedal a dozen times. Should hopefully keep me safe.
 

television

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I have the front instructions printed off already when you want them,,The rears I will do tonight
 
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jberks

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Done it

Took the opportunity and swapped the pads and disks today.
After all the to-ing and fro-ing I was didnt disconnect anything.
Instead I opened both front windows, the boot and bonnet and then ensured that I didn't touch the caliper for 30 mins.
Strip down was simple enough, 2 small bolts and the caliper came away. Getting the caliper bracket off was a B%!&^&d for 2 reasons. First I hadn't realised that my socket set went up in 2mm sizes after 12mm (and I didn't have the right one for the bolts). A quick call to my Dad and I soon had another more complete set. Then the bolts were well siezed. As I didn't have a pneumatic gun, I had to settle with a socket, bar and hammer. Not pretty but I got the bolts to move eventually.

2 Oddities -
The pads came with 2 bolts. I used one on each caliper but had to re-use the old one for the other fastening. Shouldn't they have come with 4 new bolts?
The n/s sensor didn't have a pin and whilst the o/s one did, it didn't match up with the hole in the new pad, so its sort of in the hole, but at a 30 degree angle. I thought about drilling another hole in the pad - is this normal or have they changed the sensor? Still it works and the main thing is that the brakes are in and working well. Did a road test, gently at first and finally a full abs stop and it was perfect.

One concern,
There was a small seep of what looked like brake fluid coming from the rubber seal on the o/s piston so I suspect it will need a seal kit. But I leave that stuff to the experts so I'll get it done on the next service. I take it there is a kit and it's a small job?
 

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I hadn't seen this thread before otherwise I would have offered my torque wrench and sockets, I have an air gun as well for the more troublesome bolts.
I expect there is a seal kit I've used them before but not on Mercedes.
 

television

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You will lucky to find anyone offering caliper parts these days
 

Number_Cruncher

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>>The pads came with 2 bolts. I used one on each caliper but had to re-use the old one for the other fastening. Shouldn't they have come with 4 new bolts?

Not necessarily. If your car has collette type calipers (a single piston and two sliding pins top and bottom), then, you usually undo only one bolt, and pivot the caliper on the other caliper slide - so, two bolts are enough to replace the pads.

>One concern,
There was a small seep of what looked like brake fluid coming from the rubber seal on the o/s piston so I suspect it will need a seal kit.

If the caliper really is leaking, then, I would say that it is beyond a seal kit, and you should consider replacing the caliper as a unit.

Seal kits are really best used as preventative maintenance, while the condition of the caliper piston and bore are still in Tip Top condition. Seal kits applied to already damaged calipers don't have the best success rates, and in your shoes, I wouldn't be keen to take the risk.
 

Number_Cruncher

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You will lucky to find anyone offering caliper parts these days

MB do do a seal kit - reasonably priced too - at least they do for W124s. I fitted a kit at the same time as I did the discs and pads on my car. I fitted the kit, not because there was a leak or any sticking in the calipers, but, because I wanted to be sure the calipers were clean and well lubricated, and thus fit for further service.
 

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