230TE - What to lookout for?

[AlanWT]

Hello All -

I am in the process of looking for a 230TE, and have been asking a number of people what are the things to look out for.

The information I have so far is that the following are the expensive, walk-away-right-now things:

Self-levelling rear suspension

Auto box

Rear Wheel bearings

At the risk of sounding a bit Homer, can people please advise on how I check out the above when looking at a car.

Also, anything expensive missing from the list above?

Thanks

Alan

 

[andy_k]

Don't neccessarily walk away from a car with dodgy rear suspension but point out to the seller that it's going to cost an arm and a leg to repair and get them to drop the price accordingly. If you are fairly competent with a set of spanners you can save yourself a lot of money.

To completely rebuild the hydraulic rear suspension - 2 struts, 2 accumulator spheres, self levelling valve and associated hydraulic pipes would cost you as a DIY mechanic about £800 but it's highly unlikely all the components will ever fail.

Relatively easy to check them though

the pump - put a load in the back of the car until the suspension is really low then start the car - it should rise up quickly - if it does the pump and the valve are pretty much OK - cost to replace both = about £200

the accumulator spheres - test drive the car if it's bouncy and hard there's a good chance the accumulators are knackered - they last about 100,000 miles cost to replace both and hydraulic pipes that connect them = about £150 - these are by far the most common failure as far as I know (I've just replaced mine at 214,000 miles and they were done originally at 102,000)

the self levelling struts - they either work or they don't - if they are leaking they are stuffed and must be replaced. As they are not shock absorbers they can be replaced individually or as a pair - cost to replace from the dealers = about £500, from an aftermarket supplier = about £250 or if you are lucky the genuine MB item comes up on ebay occasionally I paid £150 for a brand new pair .

Check the tie bars on the rear suspension - they should be solid with no play

Gearbox - if it's not working properly - don't walk - run away!!!

Rear wheel bearings - no big drama there any garage will have the correct tool for that job.

check the engine to see if has a simplex or duplex timing chain - look through the oil filler cap if it's a simplex(single) chain I'd walk away as they are a lot more prone to breakage than the duplex.

other stuff, check the central locking and the self closing (if fitted) all works properly.

sunroof should work perfectly with no noise or sticking

if it's got A/C make sure it works properly and has been converted to the latest coolant - personally I think the 230TE is a little underpowered witha ful load and A/C which is why we have one with just the standard heater

See if there are any oil/water leaks anywhere - the water pump can fail and is awkward to get at.

Make sure you have good oil pressure with full pressure showing at anything over about 1700 rpm and dropping no lower than 1.5 at tickover

noise from the engine - tappet noise when cold isn't unusual and no real cause for concern however a slapping or rattling timing chain is - again don't walk RUN!!!!!!!

Front anti roll bar bushes and their brackets are common wear/failures - easy and cheap to replace

steering damper - change every 65,000 miles or so - if it's leaking it's knackered - cost = about £45 from the dealers and about 5 minutes to fit.
Check steering for any free play

See if the diff is leaking - side seals are easy to replace front seal less so and will require a garage to do the job. Listen to it whilst driving it should be quiet with no clunks.

Make sure the ignition key works smoothly and easily in the barrel and the same key works all the doors - a jammed lock barrel is an expensive and time consuming job.

All the rest is just common sense give the car a thorough looking over and a decent test run. Have a look at the service history and most of all decide if you think the person selling the car is genuine - if he's not the keeper on the log sheet or he's only had the car a short time I wouldn't buy it as he's probably discovered a fault he (or she) doesn't want you to know about

If you are not sure ask someone to go look at the car with you - I'm sure there will be a forum member somewhere near you who would be willing to help if bribed with enough beer vouchers

HTH

Andy K

 

[AlanWT]

Thanks Andy - excellent

Andy -

Thats an enormous help - thanks for your trouble: much appreciated

Cheers

Alan