280e Engine Removal

[Russel Weston]

Okay, guys, as stated earlier I am taking the engine out of the 123 280. I dont want to take the gear box out as well. Is there a trick to getting the Allen bolt out of the top of the starter motor????. It is the last one and I cant find a way to get to it. Other than that all pipes, and bolts have been removed. I was going to lift the engine out tonight but this damned bolt is stopping me. Thanks.

 

[paulcallender]

I've just come across this problem too. I did a quick search on the forum, I can find the problem, but not the solution....

Chisel?

 

[nicky]

Why not use a long extension to get to the bolt,with an allen key socket on the end...

 

[paulcallender]

...because the bulkhead's too close to th e bolt to get the socket there. I could drop the engine and gearbox slightly, so I can initially reach them, which is okay in my situation. But I'm just thinking, there must be an easier way of taking off the starter motor?

 

[nick mercedes]

Drop the gearbox x-member, and then use a couple of extentions and a socket, working from the back of the gearbox.

 

[TimN]

This sometimes works. Find an allen key that fits and then use a ring spanner on it pushed up against the head of the bolt. You can rotate the spanner so that it angles away from the bulkhead.

Sound advaice is to do the most difficult bolt first. Leaving it till last means that it is holding all the tension of keeping the two components together and will therefire be even more difficult. Resist the temptation. It might be worth putting some bolts back in.

 

[paulcallender]

I tried the allen key + spanner trick last night, I foud it was so close to the bulkhead and exhaust manifold, that while I could get my hand to it, getting a decent amount of force to it to turn was not possible. However, rejuvianted, I will try again tonight.....

 

[paulcallender]

Update: partial success

Hi guys and girls

Just as an update to this task, with 20" of extension bar and a universal joint, its possible to reach the upper bolt of the starter motor and remove this, without removing the engine (or even dropping the gearbox slightly). But its a right pain to reach...

I tried to undo the 2x upper bolts holding the engine to the gearbox, even with the gearbox slightly lowered while the engine is more/less in place, its hard to reach these and I couldn't get enough leverage to loosen them.

So, I've decided to remove the engine and gearbox while they're still connected, then it should be much easier to disconnect these once they're out of the car. Since the gearbox rear support has to be loosened anyway, there aren't that many more connections to undo.

Has anyone else pulled a 2.8 litre engine from a W114 or a W123 and did they enounter these issues too?

 

[nicky]

Told you it could be done with a long extension Paul,Use a 3/8 drive as that is better to get in with..

 

[tom7035]

Interesting thread. There certainly must be a way. Can't possibly be expected to remove an engine and gearbox to replace a starter!

 

[paulcallender]

Yep, you're quite right. Its awkward, though. I'll be pulling out both engine and gearbox together, I think on balance it saves some hassle:

Pros:
Easy disconnection of engine-gearbox bolts, making a very difficult problem, much easier!
No need to worry about throttle linkage to gearbox

Cons:
Have to additionally disconnect propshaft, 1 electrical plug, speedo cable and gearshift linkage.
Have to readjust gearshift linkage on refitting (and reconnect the above)

 

[paulcallender]

Yep, as things stand right now I can see a way of removing the starter without also removing the gearbox (you'd need 10mm hex male drive, universal joint and 20" or so of extension).....But not the engine.....

 

[ddentrec]

Funny. I am at this moment restoring a 1984 280TE estate..and have just removed the engine/box complete.

I carefully removed the front panel assembly (one that supports the headlights, radiator and bonnet catch): this was to allow the engine/box to slide forwards and out of the car (rather than 'up and out').

This was much, much, much easier than separating the 'box first.

Note that at the factory the 280 engine/box was inserted in the car from the top at a crazy angle of 45 degrees: I have a photo from the M-B archives showing this being done. However, doing this requires a pit below the car to allow the length of the engine/box to be accomodated.

My 280TE project is going well: next step is to clean the totally bare shell then it is going off to the M-B approved body shop for the repaint in Astral Silver. Will cost me ££££££ but it will be worth it!!!!

 

[paulcallender]

If that's how they did it at the factory, its good enough for me! I'll assume (hoping) that if you lift the car on axle stands, you can gain the required clearance underneath to insert the engine in, at a diagonal. Since its coming out of a 'donor' W123 and into a W114, I suppose I could cut the entire front off the W123!!!

 

[ddentrec]

Hi Paul,

Axle stands are OK, but you will need a good 18 inch ground clearance or the transmission will contact the ground when you attempt the 45-degree lift.

If cutting the front bit off you only need to cut out the horizontal bit between the lights--but make sure you cut as close to the lights possible: this creates the widest possible gap for the engine.

 

[paulcallender]

I don't know if anyone's interested, but the engine came out the 1976 280CE, without too much lift required. The car was maybe 9" up (front wheels 4-5" clear of the ground), which is easily achievable with a regular (not baby) trolley jack and 2x axle stands underneath the body. The engine crane had to be set at the 2nd extension, and it was all the way up!

I'll let you know tomorrow what its like coming out the 1982? 280E, if I can't lift it high enough, I can always chisel the front end off it.....

 

[guydewdney]

when i too the 280 out of my 1st w114 coupe, I chopped off the front slam panel....

but we had the back end raised up by a foot or two, and took the front weels off to lower the front...

 

[paulcallender]

Interesting idea. I did it the 'conventional' way, with gradually pulling the engine forwards and tilting it at the same time. Because I used a chain between the engine pick up points and the crane, I was able to wedge a screwdriver in one of the chain's links and 'control' the angle the engine/gearbox was suspended at. Also, a handy tip is to use a trolley jack underneath the gearbox to help control the angle when required.

Taking the engine/gearboxes out (of the W114 and W123) was relatively easy, putting it back in the W114 took much longer, because the clearance really is tight with the both joined together. And there is a front crossmember which sits maybe 1" in front of the sump, which inevitibly causes an obstruction when it goes in. But it went in eventually.

Guydewney, have you successfully put a 280 engine back in and gotten it running? I'm nearly ready to fire it up, but there are a few silly little things which are troubling me.