300TE 24v still won't run

[David124T]

I'm getting a bit desparate with this problem. The car hasn't left the drive for almost a month. The problem is that the engine cuts out when it reaches operating temp. It won't start again until fully cooled down. (it always starts first time from cold) The problem started when I decided it would be a good idea :idea:to clean the throttle body. The cold start valve and rotary idle valve were removed and cleaned. A small rubber hose from the cylinder head to the rotary idle valve was replaced. Since this problem has started, I have had everything off and on again twice. I have replaced the coolant temperature sender and air temp. sender units. My next option would be to take it to a Bosch Centre but I would never get there because I would only be moving for five minutes before it would cut out. Does anyone have any suggestions to what could be causing this? Thanks in advance.
David

 

[dieselman]

First things to look for would be air leak at inlet manifold and crank position sensor output, coil and ignition module on inner wing.

When it fails what happens, does it splutter and die or just stop. When it's dead see if there is a spark, if so dribble some petrol down the throttle body (inside ) and see if it fires up.

 

[David124T]

First things to look for would be air leak at inlet manifold and crank position sensor output, coil and ignition module on inner wing.

When it fails what happens, does it splutter and die or just stop. When it's dead see if there is a spark, if so dribble some petrol down the throttle body (inside ) and see if it fires up.

As I hadn't distubed any ignition parts I have assumed that the problem is fuel related.
The engine idles for about 8 minutes then there is what souds like a missfire that gets steadily worse for about 30 seconds before the engine dies.

 

[television]

As Dieselman, you can measure the crankshaft sensor, it should be around 1kΩ, there is no in between on this and when bad they measure up to 100kΩ

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

I had a similar problem with my 300TE and it turned out to be the distributor cap and rotor arm. Replaced them and all was well. A lot of filth accumulates in the cap and with the condensation that forms as the engine warms the car would cut out after 5 mins running and not start again until the cap had dried out, about 20 mins.

Hope this helps.

RAC man knew what it was straight away, so must be a known problem, car had done 70K miles.

 

[Aviator]

I also had exactly the same problem with my 190E which also turned out to be the dizzy cap.If you check inside the cap you may be able to see hair line cracks or evidence of arking mine was a none O.E. part.

 

[brandwooddixon]

As you have worked on the rotary idle valve could the problem be there? If it is then I would expect that if you applied a little throttle as it started to splutter then the engine should rev freely and not die.

Another point is to try and reset the throttle body position for the ECU. If I remember rightly (there was a thread about doing this some time ago) this entails turning the ignition on fully, without starting the engine. Floor the throttle for a second or two, release and leave for about 2 minutes before turning the ignition off.

 

[jibcl500]

What about the ignition module????

jib

 

[David124T]

As you have worked on the rotary idle valve could the problem be there? If it is then I would expect that if you applied a little throttle as it started to splutter then the engine should rev freely and not die.

Another point is to try and reset the throttle body position for the ECU. If I remember rightly (there was a thread about doing this some time ago) this entails turning the ignition on fully, without starting the engine. Floor the throttle for a second or two, release and leave for about 2 minutes before turning the ignition off.

Thanks for the replies everyone.
Re the rotary idle valve, the engine still dies if I apply any throttle.
I will try the reset that you have suggested and report back.
It appears most of you think that it is an ignition problem. I am not ruling it out but it baffles me how an engine that was OK before cleaning injection parts can develop ignition faults.
If it turns out to be the ignition module, then I doubt that the car will be worth keeping. I know how much these modules cost.
Just one thought. Would these symptoms appear if the cold start valve was faulty? i.e. constantely enriching the mixture? Would I cause any damage if I disconnected it and the started the engine to see if there was any improvement?
Thanks
David

 

[kth286]

david

stick with the fuel side and do not go jumping all over the place as some have suggested - your logic is sound.

You can indeed disable the cold start valve/injector by removing the electrical plug.

You will not cause any damage.

In fact it is a ploy to get over the problem of leaky injectors overnight. The added fuel from the cold start valve exacerbates the problem of trying to start a car which has become flooded. The cold start valve is left permanently unplugged until such time as the injectors can be serviced/replaced.

 

[David124T]

Early Xmas Present????

I hope that I am not speaking too soon but this problem might be solved. The engine has been idling for the last 30 minutes but I have no idea why. Here is what I have done this morning. Perhaps someone can tell what has made the difference.
1. Tried the ECU reset suggestion - no difference
2. Put on lucky baseball cap
3. Removed the air cleaner and disconnected the cold start valve - engine wouldn't start.
4. Re-connected cold start valve and waited for engine to fully cool down.
5. With engine cold and air cleaner still removed, started the engine (first time, as usual). The air flow sensor seemed to be making an excessive sucking sound so I fully depressed the idle adjustment screw and wiggled it about before releasing it. Engine continued to idle until I switched off the ignition after approx. half an hour.
I am waiting for the engine to cool again before replacing the air cleaner.
Discounting the baseball cap part, can anyone identify what has made the difference? I would really like to know.
Of course, I could be back to square one when the air cleaner is replaced. I will let you know.

Thanks

David

 

[ianjak]

cap and rotor solved my stall problem after 5 min drive from cold.

same engine with yrs.

hope this help.

 

[David124T]

Went on a 40 mile test drive this morning. Everything seems OK
I am still not sure what has cured the problem, maybe a combination of what I did yesterday morning.
I do have a new problem.
What is the best adhesive for sticking aluminium to rubber?
The front air cleaner rubber mounting has become detached from a pillar on the inlet manifold. So far, I have tried araldite and evo-stick impact but neither seems to have enough strength.
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.
David

 

[mattkh]

What is the best adhesive for sticking aluminium to rubber?David

Hi
Bathroom sealant.