308D Rear axle alinement

[dr-photo]

I have just bought a 1997 308D flatbed tipper. It needs a fair bit of TLC, but I have noticed that the rear wheels look abit on the bonk. Looking closer I have noticed that the anti roll bar connection on the axle to the chassis has a right angle on the one side, whilst the other is way off a right angle. The axle looks like it has been touching the exhaust when under large loads. This makes me think that the axle has moved forward on the leaf spring on one side. There don't seem to be any marks on the leaf to guide me where it should be. Moving the axle back along the spring looks like it would solve the problem, but it would also elongate the rear drive shaft along the splines( if it has splines that is?) the drive shaft joint looks quite compressed at the moment. Does anyone know how long the splines are? Would moving the axle about 2 centimetres along the one leaf have catastrophic results, it would square everything up, and looks like the easiest diy job to do. Also does anyone know the torque settings for the axle to leaf spring brackets bolts?
It is a sprinter 308D. I am in france so the model/engine combination may seem strange.
Many thanks in advance.

 

[Number_Cruncher]

There's usually a spigot or feature on the leaf spring which locates in a mating feature on the spring pad on the axle. You might not be able to see this until you remove the U bolts and sperate the spring and axle.

Take some front to rear measurements to comapre one side of the van with the other. A tape measure is fine, since, what your looking for is a gross error, rather than a fine tweak.

I wouldn't be at all surprised to find some serious chassis twisting and distortion - the loads put on vehicles like this during on-site work, such as towing other stricken vehicles and equipment, can easily cause damage.

 

[dr-photo]

I just went and roughly measured the wheel base. There is a 2.5cm difference!
The springs both have numbers painted on them which I will clean up tomorrow and check.
The curve on the springs looks similar if not identical. The chassis is all in line with the lifting bed and the actual flatbed above, so I don't think its twisted from overloading. The three all sit inline and "look right".
If there is a spigot on the spring it looks like it is either the wrong spring or the mechanic missed lining it up and it settled in another dent/cutaway on the axle bracket, there is a 2.5cm difference in the axle to front of spring measurement too. I will have to separate them and see what lurks beneath.
Should the springs have the same number for both sides or are they different items.
Number cruncher... Thanks for the reply

 

[Number_Cruncher]

The spigot may not be exactly half way along the spring - if the spring eyes are both the same, it's entirely possible that one or other of the springs is in the wrong way round.

 

[dr-photo]

sadly one end goes over the bush and round and the other end goes under. I going to try and sort it after lunch.

 

[wireman]

If you need to make accurate measurements use a plumb bob to mark out the floor beneath the vehicle, move it of and then measure the marking.

To check for offsets side to side or front to rear measure the diagonals as well as the width/track and length/wheelbase.

 

[dr-photo]

There wasn't a spigot. Eventually I managed to haul it back using a large luggage strap around the axle and the rear spring/chassis mount. Hopefully I haven't put any strain on the universal joints and splines? I does seem to be running a little bit quieter. I will use it for a few days before I measure it out. So, Thanks for the advise.
You could help with another small problem. I changed the oil filter, and when I came to drain the sump I have found the drain plug very rounded off, it is tiny compared to other sump drains I have come across. I have tried a socket and then a large pair of plumber grips, but i cant get it to budge. It is now nearly round. I thought I should either grind two flat faces for a smaller spanner on it, or cut a slot for an impact driver. Could I heat it up to try and break the grip, or will that damage the sump or its contents. I have only ever heated nuts to loosen then by expansion on a landrover I used to have. This is a bolt so I would have to heat the sump and not the bolt which would heat the oil etc inside. Or should I take it to a garage to cut it out or whatever and spend more money? I don't want to take the whole sump off if I can do it another way.

 

[dr-photo]

I just searched the forum for "nut" advise so i will try the hammer a socket on technique, then go to the weld a nut or socket on if necessary. I think I will buy a new nut before i start. thanks again for the help

 

[Number_Cruncher]

I wouldn't put too much effort into removing the sump plug, I would simply suck the oil out via the dipstick tube, using a Pela or similar device.

You can soon cause a lot of damage to an alloy sump.

It's odd, very odd, that there were no spigots or locating features - there's usually some positive location on leaf springs. However, if you're happy that it's straight now, you could mark it with some paint, so that you can see at a glance if it shifts again.

 

[dr-photo]

The first thing I saw when I went to town was an oil pump and I wasnt even looking for it! what a great idea, it is slow but it gets the job done. the engine is definately smoother. I will have to do the gearbox and rear diff next. is the gearbox fill hole easy to locate? does it take standard 90 gear oil?

 

[Number_Cruncher]

>>it is slow but it gets the job done

It's much faster with oil that's quite hot.

You'll find the gearbox filler somewhere along the side of the gearbox, nearly level in height with the lower edge of the rear oil seal, and the axle filler will either be on the back plate of the diff, or on the pinion nose, again, in height near the lower edge of the pinion seal. Usually on MBs, they are 14mm socket head plugs.

It's worth making sure that you can undo the filler before you undo the drain - then, you can be sure that you can refill the unit, rather than being stranded with an empty gearbox or back axle.