4cyl E230 W210 Cylinder Head Bolt Torgue values

[wynanddb]

I have the Brooklands Books E-Class Petrol WS manual, which on its tightening torgue values page give the values as , 1st stage 5.5 kgm (40ft.lb), 2nd stage 90 degrees and 3rd stage also 90 degrees. Can someone confirm these values for me please, because in their step by step instructions they say tighten these bolts to 5.5kgm and then finally tighten each bolt without a torgue spanner by one quarter of a turn (90 degrees.)
So which is right 5.5 + 90 deg + 90 deg or just 5.5 + 90 deg - which they would proof read these books before releasing them.

 

[television]

I will find them for you, you may have to remind me

 

[wynanddb]

thanks, will be apreciated

 

[C220GJS]

The correct tightening sequence for your cyl. head is ,
Stage 1 - torque to 55Nm or 41lbf ft.
Stage 2 -Angle-tighten through a further 90deg.
Stage 3 -Angle tighten through a further 90deg.
New cylinder head bolts should always be used.

 

[television]

Thanks George

 

[wynanddb]

Thanks guys
Jip, replaced the head bolts as well

 

[Ian B Walker]

Between the first and second 90 degree tighten, let the head rest for 15 mins. Not written anywhere but gained from past experience. Also run the engine up to working temp WITHOUT the rad cap on, after fitting, as the gasket is not fully cured until they get warm.

 

[television]

Between the first and second 90 degree tighten, let the head rest for 15 mins. Not written anywhere but gained from past experience. Also run the engine up to working temp WITHOUT the rad cap on, after fitting, as the gasket is not fully cured until they get warm.

This engine is sitting on the bench Ian

 

[Number_Cruncher]

>>Not written anywhere but gained from past experience.

I tend to agree with the advice Ian, but, what was the experience which taught you this? Did you have some bolts go ping!

 

[Ian B Walker]

>>Not written anywhere but gained from past experience.

I tend to agree with the advice Ian, but, what was the experience which taught you this? Did you have some bolts go ping!

I have done quite a few head jobs on various cars. Initially I just went along with the instructions. In a couple of cases I noticed an oil leak from the front of the head after running up. Sitting down and thinking about it I came to the conclusion that it would help me if I allowed the head to settle and release some of the stress built up by the second tightening. So far, touch wood, I have been successful and have eliminated the seepage usually noticed a week or so after completion.

 

[Number_Cruncher]

>>I allowed the head to settle and release some of the stress built up by the second tightening.

I think you're absolutely right. By allowing the joint to settle, you aren't stretching the bolts further into their plastic region than you need to, and so, using your method, the head is being more firmly clamped to the block at the end of the process - the bonus being that you're still following the MB procedure to the letter.

 

[wynanddb]

what type of sealant would you guys suggest for the timing covers, the ws manual suggests OMNIFIT FD 10, not available in south africa, as I understand it is an anarobic flange sealant and the closest I could find here was Loctite 518, which is very expensive.

 

[television]

I just did a google search, there are loads out there

 

[wynanddb]

jip there is, but does it have to anarobic or would something like Wynn's high temperature Gasket Maker or the normal RTV Blue stuff do the job? So I want to know is there specific properties that I should be looking for, I can I just use the blue stuff?

 

[television]

If you have the gaskets, then use them,,gasket maker is OK when you have no choice, I am never sure if its OK to use a gasket maker in conjunction with gasket