722.6 Service

M80

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2014 639 Viano- 651, 5sp Auto. 2009 S211- 646, 5sp Auto.
162K miles, filter 3 months older than the Viano, so pretty damn sure this is original ATF. ATF with some burnt smell, although still vaguely reddish, the pan not dirty and magnet with light furry deposit.

I started this Friday, expecting the filter and pan gasket to arrive Saturday. But no show till an hour ago.

The sump drained and filter now replaced,
the union at the n/s of the bell housing loose and allowed to drain over the w/e.
In all well over 7 Litres drained. It was definitely at the top on the dip measure so maybe 8 litres were in there.

So is it worth starting the engine to get the last bit?
As this is under some pressure it might well miss my catch cans.
 

Jim2

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1st Merc 2010 E Class W212 2.1 CDI. 2nd Merc 2014 E Class W212 220 CDI
162K miles, filter 3 months older than the Viano, so pretty damn sure this is original ATF. ATF with some burnt smell, although still vaguely reddish, the pan not dirty and magnet with light furry deposit.

I started this Friday, expecting the filter and pan gasket to arrive Saturday. But no show till an hour ago.

The sump drained and filter now replaced,
the union at the n/s of the bell housing loose and allowed to drain over the w/e.
In all well over 7 Litres drained. It was definitely at the top on the dip measure so maybe 8 litres were in there.

So is it worth starting the engine to get the last bit?
As this is under some pressure it might well miss my catch cans.

When I did mine (2010 Eclass w212), I did exactly as you have done up to now, drain and drop the pan, fit filter etc, refit sump pan to trans body, fill exactly with the same amount of oil that drained out from the sump. And thats the sump oil changed. For the TC. I opened the cooler pipe (on the drivers side in my case, as i had a banjo pipe all set up to connect to the pipe) Then start engine, trans in "P" and pump out 2 lires, Switch off engine, top up trans with 2 ltres. Restart and repeat until you are sure that fresh oil is coming out. Then reconnect the coolant pipe, and carry out the usual checks at the correct temp etc. This is the only way to be 100% sure that you have changed ALL of the oil, sump , cooling radiator and TC. In my opinion, after going to all this effort, its well worth going the final yard by running the engine. Leaving the N/S coolant pipe open and allowing the coolant radiator fluid to drip out, will not have any effect on the TC.....it will still have all of its fluid.
 
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M80

M80

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I started the engine, and caught all the ATF.
It pumped out 2 Litres in less than a minute. I now have 9 1/2 litres to dispose of. I'll check the level when off the stands but as only 8 Litres went in I'm expecting the level to be low.
I'll order some more.

While the ATF after the final 2 Litres was red it still showed some mixing with the old. I feel that allowing it to circulate and drain another 3 - 4 litres in 10K will be reasonable.
 

Oldspanners

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C CLASS 2004 C180
I started the engine, and caught all the ATF.
It pumped out 2 Litres in less than a minute. I now have 9 1/2 litres to dispose of. I'll check the level when off the stands but as only 8 Litres went in I'm expecting the level to be low.
I'll order some more.

While the ATF after the final 2 Litres was red it still showed some mixing with the old. I feel that allowing it to circulate and drain another 3 - 4 litres in 10K will be reasonable.
Change the ATF in the gearbox sump each time you do an ordinary oil change will help keep it in good condition between complete flush and filter change.
 
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M80

M80

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The level is a little low, but it drives nicely. Prior it was over revving in 1 & 2, now it seems happier to change earlier.
Only a mile test drive, so still cold.

Now to order some more Fuchs 4134 from Opie oils. £28.49 for 4 Litres. I don't mind buying too much at that price.
 

Wighty

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Change the ATF in the gearbox sump each time you do an ordinary oil change will help keep it in good condition between complete flush and filter change.
That’s my tactic on the 5g box because it’s so easy and cheap to do (£28 ish for 4L of Fuchs )
 

Jim2

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I'd say that quite a lot of garages ( inc MB) when advertising an ATF change at competitive pricing, this is what they mean,,,especially in the 772.6 transmission. Just google "MB ATF Change Kit", and you will see that most of these kits have only 6 ltrs in the Kit. And thats not enough to cover a full change..you will need at least 10 or 12 Ltrs. But the advantage of the 722.6 trans is that there is a sump stud, very same as in the engine, and its very easy to do an oil change without having to drop the sump, with all that entails. So if you are happy with the filter, then you can do several changes, each one will reduce the ratio of "old" fluid to new.
With the 722.9 trans, its a a bit more complicated as the oil level is controlled by a short tube within the sump, and to do a drain, you have to knock this tube off its mount before the oil will drain and can be changed. In order to by-pass this, I've heard of people who when they have the sump off, they install a 2nd drain stud, and then than do intermediate changes, just like in the 722.6 transmission. One positive aspect of the 722.9 trans is that TC has its own drain plug, which simplifies matters a lot.
 

Jim2

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A quick question for anyone familiar with the 722.9 transmission. Is there any difference between the transmission in the E220 "BlueTec Engined car and the E 220 Cdi Blue Efficiency ?
 

RhodieBill

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2001 W208 CLK320 182U ALMANDINE-BLACK METALLIC
But the advantage of the 722.6 trans is that there is a sump stud, very same as in the engine, and its very easy to do an oil change without having to drop the sump, with all that entails. So if you are happy with the filter, then you can do several changes, each one will reduce the ratio of "old" fluid to new.

This is what I do about 3 to 4 times with the last one I change the Filter, Seal and Drain Plug.
For me it's good enough.... As my name isn't.............................................. :p
 


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