'95 C280 Serpentine Belt Replacement Procedure

[potion]

This is the straight-six (M104) motor. I need a step-by-step procedure to replace the fan belt.

(*Before anyone says: "Get a workshop manual!", the Haynes manual that I found at the local motor books store doesn't cover the six, so I ordered another that does, but will get it only at the end of the month, and I want to get going before then!)

Also, I have not attempted major mechanical repairs on the Benz before, but am handy with my Landrover Defender V8 (though, admittedly, to repair requires only a monkey wrench, hammer and the barbeque tongs).

Den

 

[potion]

I got the replacement belt - agent sent me a Goodyear Gatorback Poly-V, Part#: 4060845 (84.5"), but my owner's manual states a replacement belt length of 2176mm (85.8"). Will the 1.3" shorter belt be okay, or should I send it back for Part#: 406858?

Oh, and I kinda figured out how to replace the belt:

1. Remove the plastic fan-cowl
2. Use 13mm socket on tensioner adjuster (between PS pump and thermostat) to release tension on belt.
3. Remove belt, slipping it off the pulleys and over front of fan.
4. Slip new belt over fan
5. Refer to V-belt routing diagram in owners manual
6. Locate over pulleys (using barbecue tongs as required).
7. Release tension adjuster to allow pulley tension on belt.
8. Refit cowl.

Here's a pic of the tension adjuster... Right?

 

[potion]

Referring to point 2, above: didn't know which way to turn it (if indeed it should be turned at all!), so I tried clockwise. Half a turn on a T-bar and with just a little pressure on my wrist, and "crack" - something snapped. Now, more than before, I'm desperate for help!

 

[anyweb]

have you tried turning it anti-clockwise ?

 

[potion]

have you tried turning it anti-clockwise ?

Yep. But the shaft simply limply turns. I think I busted it. But What? In the pic (thanks to the Russians) http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...N=2020286F&CT=M&cat=520&SID=20&SGR=045&SGN=03 it's part# 32/41. Perhaps the pin (35) sheared. Looks like I'll have to remove the radiator to get at it. Bummer.

 

[Ron Palfrey]

I know this is a relatively old thread but I wonder if POTION ever found out what it was he had broken? If so how did the repair go?
I thought the tension on the serpentine belt was automatic on the tensioner PULLEY itself, and that to release the belt tension you have to place a spanner (or socket) on the nut in the centre of the tensioner pulley then lever it anti-clockwise to relieve the tension in the belt.
Furthermore POTION did the slightly shorter belt fit OK?
Ron

 

[potion]

First, after I removed the old belt I compared it with the new (shorter) one and decided to return it for the longer belt. So I don't know for sure whether the shorter belt would have worked.

Second, there was just no way that I could easily see what was going on with the tensioner, and without a workshop manual I wasn't going to rely on any more guesswork. I decided to take the car to my M-B independent - so I refitted the old belt and, in spite of the damaged tensioner, there apperared to be enough tension to start the car and drive it. It would not start, and so I had it trucked on a flat-bed. The M-B bloke is not generous with his knowledge, but said that he replaced a damaged tensioner (along with my new belt), and that the ECU needed to be reset for the car to start (I have no idea why). He charged ZAR2800 / £200 / US$400 - reasonable I thought. I asked how he got access to the tensioner: by removing the bolts securing the cross member in front of the radiator, he then moves the radiator forward and inch or two, and that's enough to get his hands and tools in. But (and this is a big but), he knows the task well enough to do it by feel - we mortals will probably have to remove the entire radiator to see what the heck is going on!

Last. The workshop manual that I ordered eventually arrived, but covered the newer V6 C280. I returned it and am still without "the knowledge".

Den

 

[television]

Thanks for posting back, at least we all know now even if it was not a fix. there is another thread running now with the same problem.

 

[kth286]

potion

Your engine is fitted in other cars ie.W124 E class (approx 1992 to 1996).

The Haynes manual for the E class covers your engine (Haynes book 3253).

Your tensioner details are shown in there, and the later tensioner details which is much simpler.

So, get that manual (and whilst not perfect) and you will not be disappointed.

 

[television]

potion

Your engine is fitted in other cars ie.W124 E class (approx 1992 to 1996).

The Haynes manual for the E class covers your engine (Haynes book 3253).

Your tensioner details are shown in there, and the later tensioner details which is much simpler.

So, get that manual (and whilst not perfect) and you will not be disappointed.

kieth any ideas for this guy
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=27172

Thanks

 

[potion]

Keith and Malcolm

Thanks for the pointers gents. I'll consider getting the W124/280E manual, along with the W202/C230 manual - that should do it.

Den

 

[potion]

Incidentally, on the workshop manuals - I had a similar issue with my 1995 Landrover V8 (must be a genetic problem with cars!). I bought the Brooklands manual designated "Defender 1983-1995", only to find that my gearbox & transfer box (and some other bits and bobs) were not covered. The later 1996- manual didn't cover the V8 engine!

It appears that in late 1995 Landrover introduced new engine/gearbox/transfer-box configurations, at the same time as the BMW takeover. A few V8s were released before the BMW 2.8i motor was fitted. I had the new gearbox and transfer box configuration, but the older V8 engine.

I emailed Brooklands and Ian Dowdeswell responded by sending me the other, newer manual - free of charge. I wonder if Haynes will delight me with the same offer?

Den