Auxiliary Battery Malfunction

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Hi, I have a 2016 CLS 220 Shooting Brake. I don't use it very much and it stood outside for about six weeks.When I came to start it the battery was well down and it just about started up. I immediately had the Auxiliary Battery malfunction warning displayed and the stop start/Hold functions didn't work until I stopped the car and restarted it.I went for a drive of about 30 miles to get some charge into the battery and it seemed fine. The next time I started the car about an hour later the warning came back up.The car has only done just over 12000 miles from new. Does anyone know the part number and location of this battery please.I get the feeling that Mercedes will charge a small fortune to replace this. Cheers
 

Gazwould

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I'm sorry but words fail me .
 

Blobcat

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Hello and welcome,

If you're not going to be using your car for awhile get it on a battery conditioner

The batteries are available from many outlets and you don't need to go to Mercedes unless you really want to pay for the "free tea and coffee"
 

malcolm E53 AMG

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Welcome!

As above if you are going to leave your car for extended periods (more than 2/3 weeks) during which there will be a substantial drain on the car battery it’s much better to use a CTEK charging device to condition the battery and maintain a healthy charge.

Replacing the auxiliary battery either yourself or through the dealer won’t cost the earth especially as you’ve had the warning message on the dash and the car shouldn’t need a diagnostic with associated cost. Might be worth looking up your nearest Independent MB specialist to do the work
 
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Thanks for the replies. I was in hospital for some time that is why the car was not used for a period of time. I usually start it up regularly and sit in it for 20 mins or so to keep the battery up.I will replace the battery and sell the car I think.
 

Blobcat

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Thanks for the replies. I was in hospital for some time that is why the car was not used for a period of time. I usually start it up regularly and sit in it for 20 mins or so to keep the battery up.I will replace the battery and sell the car I think.
That’s a bit extreme...
 

onefortheroad

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Thanks for the replies. I was in hospital for some time that is why the car was not used for a period of time. I usually start it up regularly and sit in it for 20 mins or so to keep the battery up.I will replace the battery and sell the car I think.
This is an absolute waste of time , 70 amps to start the car and may put back 10 , ticking over for 20 minutes.

Ask Gazwould to sell you his battery .
 

Gazwould

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I doubt they're the same .

I've surplus auxiliary battery
A 000 982 70 08 .
 

Janchee

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Welcome back and hope you're feeling better. I would get a trickle charger similar to above. The battery will be fine, it will just need a good charge :) I think you can even buy the Mercedes charger which is very simple. Just plug in and charge (rebranded CTEK)
 

sonic

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I haven't used my E class since September, but it gets charged ever other week. Its the original battery & will be 10 years old in May.
 

Gazwould

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Same 10 year birthday soon and original battery .
 

Botus

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no modern car is very happy if its not driven for a decent drive circa 10 miles every 2 weeks,

age of the battery has nothing to do with it.... 3 week and no support should be considered a huge risk, alarms and the strange ideas inside modern cars mean they can't cope without some form of support
 

Botus

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Starting a car for 10 to 20 mins and not driving is actually alleged to be far worse than not starting the car.
And I guess that is true for the engine and gearbox mechanicals.... but the AC and the battery won't like it.

Idling an engine is terribly bad, and short runs you think help have these kinds of impact on the engine (and to a lesser degree the gearbox)

high cam wear on the nose.
low oil pressure
low oil splash to components that expect to get lube as its flung around (rope crank seals dry out & take out the crank - must be kept moist V12 jags !!!)
poor fuel mix to help it actually run at low rpm
low temps so combustion gases remain stuck in the oil degrading it rather than boiled off and sucked round the breather system
high condensation from cold start and insufficient temps again damaging the engine oil
high acidic content in the engine oil from the two above
high acidic content in the exhaust rotting it from the inside out
CAT and sensors not getting hot plus all the extra nasties wears them out

Cam wear is why the correct start up procedure on a new cam (aside from special cam lube) is to start and immediately run at 2k rpm and never idle it

The difficulty of not running the car and leaving it parked up other than a trickle charger, is the Tyres and the AC. The AC needs running for 20 mins every two weeks and the tyres need to be driven on for 10 or so miles, then the brakes and park brake and the dampers being used it a good idea. The drive also tends to scare off mice who might be thinking of moving in.

Th best thing is a modern trickle charger and minimum drive of 15 miles every two weeks - when there's NO salt on the roads or in the puddles
 
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