B16/14 exhaust temp sensor

Exp21

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Hi everyone. My w245 B200 CDI has the 169100 fault code, "B16/14 componenti temperature sensor ricycle exhaust gas has an internal failure". I replaced a similar sensor last year, I don't believe another one has broken. Crap of a car. Does anyone know the exact location of this sensor? Thank you
 
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I found on WIS the sensor B16/14. But I don't see torque specs. Do you know typical torque specs for temperature sensors? I don't want to over torque it. And also, what kind of lube/grease must I use on the threads? It needs to be high temperature resistant, but is copper grease correct for the purpose? Thank you
 

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ajlsl600

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Tiny smear of copper grease. Not enough to melt and drip. As for tightening. Put a shake proof washer under bolt head hand tight. Then a bit never needed a tw for that stuff. Never had any fall out. If that bothers u Google setting for bolt, thread size. Prob a 6x1 thread? On a torx, invented by makers an snap off to keep fitters broke. a 10 mm bolt head should have been fine as was for 40 yr.
 

ajlsl600

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12nm on 6x1
 
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Thank you very much! :) Now it remains only the doubt that the sensor is really the problem. I'm not expert in electric issues, so I was thinking that I should test the wirings that go from the sensor connector to the CDI ECU. But I don't know exactly how to do it. Is there the possibility that the problem is upstream of the connector? Should I use a multimeter?
 

ajlsl600

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If you replaced it earlier check all the connections are still good and clear the fault and try again. Thing is many Benz sensors seem to be made by the lowest back street tender. And it's not unusual for replacements to fail again, exhaust, nox ect but check what you can first. Pin to pin with a multimeter should be fine. Don't connect any power supply to any wires running into any control unit. If yr unsure suggest you find a decent indie or someone who you believe understand the situation. Blundering around can turn a 20 quid issue into a 2k issue in short order.
 
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You're right. No, I think they replaced another sensor last year. They fail one by one, it seems to be chinese quality. I'll go to an indie this time, I'll avoid MB dealer for now. I was a regular client but I'm not happy. Last year when I had trouble code P040B (or similar) I went to 3 different MB dealers, I had 3 different diagnosis. I spent thousands at the dealer in these years but they made too many mistakes on really big diagnosis like head gaskets, hp pumps and so on, so I decided to avoid them at all. If I pay 90 euro/hour for labour, I expect the best technicians
 
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I know about warranty, thank you. I'll keep posted in the case it could be useful for someone with same error code :)
 
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Hi! I drove few miles with live diagnosis data. As you can see (engine was at operating temp) the suspected B16/14 sensor gives only 118° C, while the other sensors upstream of the turbine and downstream of the catalic converter are above 200° C. Is in your opinion enough to tell that the sensor is broken? Otherwise I'll have to go to a dealer to check the real problem. Sensor seems easy to replace diy. Thank you
 

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These are the values with cold engine (coolant at 40°C,engine oil 37°C). The B16/14 value seems not plausible. Does anyone know what to do? Thank you
 

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Uncle Benz

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For some clarification here, is the the same sensor that was replaced before, or a different one? The readings look bad, and I’d say it’s the sensor. Perhaps you can clarify if it’s the same one as last time?
 
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Thank you very much for your answer :) no, it's another sensor. I checked the MB dealer bill and they replaced the dpf upstream sensor. I'm wondering if the fact that B16/14 sensor reads lower temp is right or not. It's located beside the exhaust gas pressure transducer. But I don't understand well how this transducer works. I don't know if it influences the sensor readings
 

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I’d go with replacing the B16/14 then. Looks like it’s faulty to me
 
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Ok, at this point I'll try replacing it. I was thinking well before acting because in two german autorepair forums I found technicians replacing the sensor and having again check engine light and not knowing what to do then. Going step by step is the only way I suppose. It's also strange that engine light turned off by herself
 

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I know the sensors aren’t exactly cheap, but they are quick to replace. Sure, a wiring issue may exist and be causing the fault, but labour is expensive, and wiring checks take longer. The dealer route will be to eliminate the component first. 99% of the time that’s it. The further 1% will require more diagnosis. Sorry if that sounds curt, it’s just the way they do things
 
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It's not curt. It's reality. I'm thankful to you because you spent some of your time for reading and answering. I'm avoiding dealers and shops because of what you say. It's not the first time I have issues like this and any time they proceed "groping". So I prefer to grope by myself ;) I'll let you know, thanks
 
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I opened the box with the new temperature sensor. I analyzed the resistance with a multimeter until 500° C and corresponds to the tables on google. But is it normal that a white wax was melting during this? Is it a sort of seal telling that sensor is brand new? :confused:Thank you
 

MikiBenz

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Hi,
I am experiencing similar issue. Code 169100 remains even after replacing the sensor. After removing the code, the car drives for a couple of days and then, after the engine light pops up, the engine power gets reduced and doesn't gi beyond 2000rpm. EGR and particlefirter are OK. Automechanics don't have a concrete ide what should be the problem.
Did you find out the defect?
Thanks in advance!
Miki
 
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Hi Miki,
unfortunately I delayed the sensor job because check engine light turned off by herself months ago and car rides perfectly fine (the only issue I have always had is oil dilution with diesel and too many dpf regens). From live data the sensor gave too low values respect to the other egt sensors, but I decided to do the replacement later when I'll have time. I was thinking of doing it next week. In another german forum I read the same thing you say. Sensor replaced and still engine light. I really don't know. Probably it's a CDI control unit fault at this point. Recently I found this video where it explains how to properly test an egt sensor and the control unit. I think that only checking if there is a 5 Volt potential to the wires is not enough to tell if the cdi unit is fine. If you are more able than me in such things you could find the answer. Let me know. Is it yours a euro5 engine like mine? Mine also is a 2010 model

 
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