Black Death. Fuel injector pullers, seals. Exhaust smell in cab.

Alans dad

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
73
Reaction score
9
Your Mercedes
Vito 109cdi 2005 2.1 long
Hi. My Vito is up on ramps while I fix my alternator so I thought I would take the opportunity to search for the exhaust leak that has been coming into the cab the last few hundred miles. For those of you who are as naïve or ignorant as I am but still want to have a go your selves at finding and fixing this problem I will write down what I did and hope it helps you.
First I checked the exhaust pipe while I was under the van looking and listening for signs of a leak. There were none. Then I removed the big air filter housing on top of the engine. Then the fuel injector cover on the very top pf the engine. That revealed a lot of burnt on black deposit all over the fuel injectors and the surrounding area. I googled it and found it to be caused by a leaking injector seal. It is worryingly called Black Death. But don't fret. It is, according to YouTube videos, fairly straight forward to fix it. There were plenty of YouTube videos to educate me. I thought mine looked pretty severe compared to the first 3 videos I watched which had some slight staining. Mine was glossy black everywhere under that cover. I was relieved to find a fourth video of an engine that was totally encrusted with about a shoe box full of carbon crud and some gloopy oily sludge, all of which were fixed with some patience and perseverance.

These are the "simple" steps that I think are right and some questions (Please advise me if I am about to do it wrong) ....
1. Clean the mess up as well as you can so as not to let any crud fall in to the bolt holes and injector hole when you remove them. I saw someone using oven cleaner.
Q1. Is oven cleaner the best way to clean this carbon off?

2. Identify which injector(s) is leaking. It might be visible when you run the engine or if not visible then as one YouTuber did, he listened with a cheap stethoscope with the end pulled off. Putting the end of the rubber stethoscope tube up against the bottom of each injector and listening for the hissing leak.
Q2a. Is this the best way to find the leak if it is not visible?
Q2b. Should I just replace all four of the injector seals as a precaution?

3. Remove the wire clip on the top of the injector so you can ,remove little cap and tube thingy from the top of the injector. Unclip and remove electrical plug from the top of the injector,

4. Undo 14mm nut from fuel line at injector and loosen the 14mm bolt on the other end of the fuel line so that you can swivel the metal pipe out of the way.

5. Remove the star bolt that holds the injector clamp. Caution! This bolt is a "Stretch bolt". You can only use it one time so you need a new one to replace it. Also Don't let any dirt get inside this bolt hole as it will restrict the ability of the new bolt to do up tightly which will lead to more leaks. Stuff an easily removable cloth or paper bung into the hole to keep it clean.

6. Use an injector puller to remove the injector.
Q6. There seems to be lots of different types of pullers. I am not likely to do this job often enough or even ever again to warrant buying a great kit. Can someone advise me. Claw shaped puller with a slide hammer or something that you tighten up with a kind of tube that goes over the injector? Can they be hired? Anyone near Hendon NW London who would lend or rent me theirs?

7. Remove the copper seal from the inside of the hole the injector just came out of. This is what caused the leak and what you are replacing. I saw one person use a clean dowel rod with a tiny bit of grease on it to get the seal to stick on to it so he could lift it out. Another had an old screw diver with a tiny bend at the tip of it making a sort of burr which he hooked the seal out with.

8. Clean everything. the holes, the injectors, the top of the engine. Put in new seals. Replace injectors, Injector clamps. Put new clamp bolts into VERY CLEAN bolt holes. Tighten these with a torque wrench to 7 newton meters and then an extra 90 degree turn. Caution check that torque figure somewhere official. You don't want to over tighten and snap the bolt or under tighten and have another leak. I am just quoting someone else.
Put new little rubber seal rings on the little top cap and tube thingy (what is that called?) and replace the cap thingy. Plug in the little electrical plug. Reconnect the fuel line and tighten both the 14mm nuts.

Run engine and check for leaks. Replace cover and air filter. Have a cup of tea.

I have not started this job yet. I am about to do all of the above and hope that I will be doing it right. Please let me know anything I have missed or need to know. I understand that it must be kept clean so as not to block tiny holes in fuel injectors and I hear it might need lots of patience to remove the injectors as they jam into the engine and are glued in with the leaked carbon deposits.
 
Last edited:

Doug1234

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
912
Reaction score
245
Location
Bedfordshire uk
Your Mercedes
1997 w210 e300td
Acetone removes the crud very easily but it makes a hellish mess so wear clothes you can throw away.
Acetone is around £10 litre on ebay or amazon
 

Uncle Benz

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Messages
4,220
Reaction score
3,548
Age
53
Location
West Sussex
Your Mercedes
Mainly Mercedes
Get the engine hot first, and work quickly. When hot the black goo is like soft toffee. When cold it’s as hard as coal. The injectors are easier to pull out when the stuff is soft. Get a long tap to clear the thread in the bolt hole. You can cut some slots down the sides of the old bolts to use as a clearing tap if necessary. Get a tool to lightly recut the seat for the copper washer down the hole, but also the face of the injector where the copper washer sits or it will blow again soon after. Otherwise you seem to have tge fundamentals. If you’ve not done one before I’d suggest doing one at a time and re-warming the car again before moving onto the next. Avoid the stuff going hard again while working or you risk trouble
 

mersum1es

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
2,352
Reaction score
427
Location
Finland
Your Mercedes
W212/-09/350CDI, W219/-07/320CDI, EX:W220/-01/320CDI, EX:W211/-04/320CDI, EX:W210/-01/270CDI
Few notes: I used Forte Intake Cleaner for removing/cleaning tar. Expensive but effective.

Clamp type puller tool is better so you don't need to open top of the injector (and loosing than tiny ball, and increasing chances to get dirt in). Note that some chinese tool may need a bit angle grinder tweaking... :) Slide hammer is a must.

None of my cars have had o-ring on injector body.

Ceramic grease for injector body. Get a small can MB grease (white stuff like a moomin sh*t :) ), I think I have listed part number for that somewhere....

Tightening is 7Nm +90 +90.... last one is scary I know.

If you engine has piezo injectors, one injector by time is a must to get in running for sure. Those injectors get easily air lock and 'only' DIY release is give it a pedal when lump has started by aid of non'touched injectors.
 

mattkh

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
3,157
Reaction score
353
Location
England
Your Mercedes
A160 W168 1999 1.6
If you engine has piezo injectors, one injector by time is a must to get in running for sure. Those injectors get easily air lock and 'only' DIY release is give it a pedal when lump has started by aid of non'touched injectors.
Very useful advice, but please can you explain a bit more.
 

mersum1es

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
2,352
Reaction score
427
Location
Finland
Your Mercedes
W212/-09/350CDI, W219/-07/320CDI, EX:W220/-01/320CDI, EX:W211/-04/320CDI, EX:W210/-01/270CDI
It is not the so-called soft rubbery O-ring, it is a metal washer.
I misread, he refers o-ring of the tank line connector. I was talking about o-ring, which in some pictures is installed on shaft of the injector (there is actually a groove on mid).

Pizo air lock: If you remove all injectors, let them lay on table (whatever) and almost all get air lock, you can't get engine started. Air lock can be removed brutal way like I said, one injector replaced at time, then after engine fires up (bad idle due to one air locked injector), floor accelerator pedal until run is smoothed. SDS has some bleeding procedure for some engine models, I have not checked it since so far I have replaced only solenoid type injector seals.
 
OP
A

Alans dad

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
73
Reaction score
9
Your Mercedes
Vito 109cdi 2005 2.1 long
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #8
Clamp type puller tool is better
Ceramic grease for injector body.
If you engine has piezo injectors, one injector by time is a must to get in running for sure. Those injectors get easily air lock and 'only' DIY release is give it a pedal when lump has started by aid of non'touched injectors.
Hi Thanks for your reply.
Q. I am not sure what a clamp type puller is. Could you or anyone send me a link to one with a picture please?
Q. What is the ceramic grease for? Do I smear it on the outside of the injector before I slide it back as a lube or as a seal or is it to clean it before it goes back?
Sorry for being ignorant but I don't really understand this bit of your reply "If you engine has piezo injectors, one injector by time is a must to get in running for sure. Those injectors get easily air lock and 'only' DIY release is give it a pedal when lump has started by aid of non'touched injectors."
 
OP
A

Alans dad

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
73
Reaction score
9
Your Mercedes
Vito 109cdi 2005 2.1 long
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #9
Get the engine hot first, and work quickly. When hot the black goo is like soft toffee. When cold it’s as hard as coal. The injectors are easier to pull out when the stuff is soft. Get a long tap to clear the thread in the bolt hole. You can cut some slots down the sides of the old bolts to use as a clearing tap if necessary. Get a tool to lightly recut the seat for the copper washer down the hole, but also the face of the injector where the copper washer sits or it will blow again soon after. Otherwise you seem to have tge fundamentals. If you’ve not done one before I’d suggest doing one at a time and re-warming the car again before moving onto the next. Avoid the stuff going hard again while working or you risk trouble
Some great advice about running engine first and also cutting slots down the old bolts to clean out the threads. Also one injector at a time for newbies. thank you.
Get a tool to lightly recut the seat for the copper washer down the hole, but also the face of the injector where the copper washer sits What kind of tool? Where from? How much £££? How easy? Doesn't the swarf fall into the hole when cutting the seat for the washer?
Thanks
 
OP
A

Alans dad

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
73
Reaction score
9
Your Mercedes
Vito 109cdi 2005 2.1 long
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #10
Acetone removes the crud very easily but it makes a hellish mess so wear clothes you can throw away.
Acetone is around £10 litre on ebay or amazon
Thanks for your reply. I have just ordered a litre of acetone.
I work with special needs children doing art classes so most of my clothes are covered in paint stains anyway.
 
OP
A

Alans dad

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
73
Reaction score
9
Your Mercedes
Vito 109cdi 2005 2.1 long
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #11
I misread, he refers o-ring of the tank line connector. I was talking about o-ring, which in some pictures is installed on shaft of the injector (there is actually a groove on mid).

Pizo air lock: If you remove all injectors, let them lay on table (whatever) and almost all get air lock, you can't get engine started. Air lock can be removed brutal way like I said, one injector replaced at time, then after engine fires up (bad idle due to one air locked injector), floor accelerator pedal until run is smoothed. SDS has some bleeding procedure for some engine models, I have not checked it since so far I have replaced only solenoid type injector seals.
Thanks, That is what I will do in case of air locks.

About the rubber O rings. I saw a YouTube video where the man replaced some tiny rubber seals on the part that is held on by the wire clip at the top end of the injector. I don't know what that is called.
 
OP
A

Alans dad

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
73
Reaction score
9
Your Mercedes
Vito 109cdi 2005 2.1 long
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #12
I have removed the alternator for repair. Can I run the engine without an alternator? The battery is fully charged up.
 
OP
A

Alans dad

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
73
Reaction score
9
Your Mercedes
Vito 109cdi 2005 2.1 long
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #13
I have removed the alternator for repair. Can I run the engine without an alternator? The battery is fully charged up.
I have just realised that the belt will be useless with no alternator. So I will not run the engine with no alternator fitted. :oops:
 

mattkh

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
3,157
Reaction score
353
Location
England
Your Mercedes
A160 W168 1999 1.6
I have just realised that the belt will be useless with no alternator. So I will not run the engine with no alternator fitted. :oops:
You can use a shorter belt.
How long do you want to run the engine for..?
Without a belt, the engine can be run BUT remember that the water pump wont be turning as well.
 

mersum1es

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
2,352
Reaction score
427
Location
Finland
Your Mercedes
W212/-09/350CDI, W219/-07/320CDI, EX:W220/-01/320CDI, EX:W211/-04/320CDI, EX:W210/-01/270CDI
Hi Thanks for your reply.
Q. I am not sure what a clamp type puller is. Could you or anyone send me a link to one with a picture please?
Q. What is the ceramic grease for? Do I smear it on the outside of the injector before I slide it back as a lube or as a seal or is it to clean it before it goes back?
Sorry for being ignorant but I don't really understand this bit of your reply "If you engine has piezo injectors, one injector by time is a must to get in running for sure. Those injectors get easily air lock and 'only' DIY release is give it a pedal when lump has started by aid of non'touched injectors."


Yes, grease is for preventing injector body stuck on hole. Important NOT put on tip.

When pulling injectors out, check nozzle holder for cracks. (Normally cracks if nozzle is changed, and holder overtighten. But could be reason for black death)

It would be very benefical to get engine hot hot...

set cutter tool
 
OP
A

Alans dad

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
73
Reaction score
9
Your Mercedes
Vito 109cdi 2005 2.1 long
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #16
I have bought a litre of acetone, four stretch bolts, four new copper seals, an injector puller/removal kit with a slide hammer and also a seat cutter set (thanks for the links mersum1es).
I have fixed my alternator problem (details in another thread) and have run the engine without the air filter or injector cover. I can see and hear very clearly that the nearest injector is leaking. The whole area around all the injectors is back and shiny which maybe from the leak in number one injector but I thought I would try and do all 4 seals. This depends on how difficult number one is.
The number one injector is the easiest to access as there is nothing above it but the other three are tucked into and under the body of the van that houses the wiper motors etc. Is this easy to remove so I can get clear access to the rear injectors?
 

sonic

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2009
Messages
3,578
Reaction score
2,382
Location
Staffordshire
Your Mercedes
E350CDI, SLC250d, FJR 1300
I have bought a litre of acetone, four stretch bolts, four new copper seals, an injector puller/removal kit with a slide hammer and also a seat cutter set (thanks for the links mersum1es).
I have fixed my alternator problem (details in another thread) and have run the engine without the air filter or injector cover. I can see and hear very clearly that the nearest injector is leaking. The whole area around all the injectors is back and shiny which maybe from the leak in number one injector but I thought I would try and do all 4 seals. This depends on how difficult number one is.
The number one injector is the easiest to access as there is nothing above it but the other three are tucked into and under the body of the van that houses the wiper motors etc. Is this easy to remove so I can get clear access to the rear injectors?
Let you know how you get on.
 

Steve@Avantgarde

Forum Supporter
Authorised Forum Supporter
Joined
Dec 8, 2009
Messages
7,314
Reaction score
1,955
Location
Bristol/Somerset
Website
www.avantgarde-automotive.co.uk
Your Mercedes
E300 Coupe AMG Line PP/NE, SLR McLaren Roadster, SL55 & C32AMG
Personally i find it easier to chiesel it all off when its cold, then get it scolding hot to pull the injectors out. The rest of the clean up you can do with the injectors removed. I use car cleaner for that and then once the injectors are back in and sealed with the engine running, get a load of G101 soaked in and then pressure washer it off.

If you attempt any injector removal with the engine cold, you stand a high chance of snapping the bolts.
 
OP
A

Alans dad

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
73
Reaction score
9
Your Mercedes
Vito 109cdi 2005 2.1 long
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #19
Let you know how you get on.

Personally i find it easier to chiesel it all off when its cold,
Thanks Steve, I am doing this and although it is slow and back breaking it is working surprisingly well.
I have now removed the windscreen wiper housing. My confidence is growing.
 
OP
A

Alans dad

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2019
Messages
73
Reaction score
9
Your Mercedes
Vito 109cdi 2005 2.1 long
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #20
Before .... .
 

Attachments

  • 20210526_184625.jpg
    20210526_184625.jpg
    227.4 KB · Views: 29


www.W140.co.uk&www.r129.co
Specialist in parts for W140 and R129 Mercedes-Benz models.
Top Bottom