Disabling EGR

speedtriple

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I have read quite a lot of this thread with interest, and have a couple of questions. I apologise if this has been answered previously and I have missed it, but it is quite a long thread.
Once the electrical circuit mods have been added is it necessary to fit a blanking plate between the EGR valve and the inlet or even remove the EGR valve completely? And would there be any advantage re-routing the EGR coolant circuit out so it was no longer fed?

I have a 2004 ML270
 

Brianooo

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I have read quite a lot of this thread with interest, and have a couple of questions. I apologise if this has been answered previously and I have missed it, but it is quite a long thread.
Once the electrical circuit mods have been added is it necessary to fit a blanking plate between the EGR valve and the inlet or even remove the EGR valve completely? And would there be any advantage re-routing the EGR coolant circuit out so it was no longer fed?

I have a 2004 ML270

I have been wandering that to.
 

Alex Crow

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No need for a blanking plate - the EGR valves usually seal OK when closed on these.

Bypassing the EGR cooler circuit will probably not make much difference to anything, coolant warming will be slower without EGR, bypassing the EGR cooler will not help much at all.
 

speedtriple

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No need for a blanking plate - the EGR valves usually seal OK when closed on these.

Bypassing the EGR cooler circuit will probably not make much difference to anything, coolant warming will be slower without EGR, bypassing the EGR cooler will not help much at all.

All it was, on my L200 there was an issue with regard to the EGR cooler fracturing allowing water into the inlet and on occasions if not caught cracking the head.

Thanks for your help, I will follow your advice when the weather gets a bit warmer.
 

alfhalf

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c250td elegance est 1999,CBR1000FH 1989,2X CBX1000 A1, PAN EURO1100,
many thanks to DM for the EGR mod and Alex Crow for pin reference tho did not use it as could not see numbers.So instead i disconected egr switch and wired into it/then same for Maf..doubled vaccum pipe and tie wrapped for now.went for a spin to come back,lift bonnet to see where the other turbo came from ?.the difference was amazing.I already have a Vortex full stainless exhaust on with K&N filter which gives me extra 8-10mls per GAL on long run.So will be very interesting the diff in economy now.will post results. many thanks guys..
 

johntom

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Hi
i am picking up a 2004 facelift C270 this week and want to carry out the EGR delete, is the method in post #1 suitable for my car?
many thanks
 
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Alex Crow

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Yes, as above.
 

johntom

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Hi
I made the shunt up the other day and fitted it tonight. Not too difficult once the wires are identified. No EML on at start up or after a short test drive, does this mean it was successful ?
 

turbopete

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I already have a Vortex full stainless exhaust on with K&N filter which gives me extra 8-10mls per GAL

i, everyone else on the forum, and the car companies would LOVE to know how a change in air filter and exhaust can increase fuel economy by so much! after all, better MPG means lower emissions/lower tax etc and more cars sold (especially to fleet buyers!) so if it were that simple, all cars would be fitted with those exhausts and air filters!
 

oigle

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Hi
I made the shunt up the other day and fitted it tonight. Not too difficult once the wires are identified. No EML on at start up or after a short test drive, does this mean it was successful ?

Provided you have disconnected the electrical plug and you aren't getting limp mode, looks like you have done it correctly. Make sure you leave vacuum tube connected or blanked off.
Enjoy!!
 

johntom

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Hi
I left the plug connected at the transducer but cut/joined the shunt in the fuse box.

Is it advisable to clean the EGR as well?
 
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amosf

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Hi i have just joined the forum and was impressed about the egr shunt,I think this will solve my black smoke problem, but need to know the correct connections for a 2004 c270 cdi. Someone mentioned a word doc for that car, does any one have a copy they could send me, thanks Amosf
 

oigle

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Hi
I left the plug connected at the transducer but cut/joined the shunt in the fuse box.

Is it advisable to clean the EGR as well?

If you just joined the shunt in at the ecu, you still need to disconnect the plug. If you have CUT the wires, then OK.
Re cleaning the egr. The egr and manifold will be chokkers with crud and should really be cleaned at some stage. The main thing at this stage is to ensure the egr piston is fully closed.
 

oigle

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Hi i have just joined the forum and was impressed about the egr shunt,I think this will solve my black smoke problem, but need to know the correct connections for a 2004 c270 cdi. Someone mentioned a word doc for that car, does any one have a copy they could send me, thanks Amosf

This is the correct thread. Just look at the original posts and work from there. Just make sure you properly identify the various wires with a multi-meter.
 

johntom

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If you just joined the shunt in at the ecu, you still need to disconnect the plug. If you have CUT the wires, then OK.
Re cleaning the egr. The egr and manifold will be chokkers with crud and should really be cleaned at some stage. The main thing at this stage is to ensure the egr piston is fully closed.

Hi
Yes I cut the transducer wires 2" from the ecu plug.

I did my first motorway journey this morning since buying the car (and since doing the shunt yesterday) and found I did around 16 miles, mostly motorway, before the temperature gauge got near 80 degrees, is this connected to the shunt?
 

patxi

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I did my first motorway journey this morning since buying the car (and since doing the shunt yesterday) and found I did around 16 miles, mostly motorway, before the temperature gauge got near 80 degrees, is this connected to the shunt?

No. It means you need a new thermostat. It is a very common problem which causes slow warm up and poorer fuel economy. Search the forum for other threads. New part from MB is around £40. It can be fitted by a DIYer in around 1 hour, less at a garage. If you buy from Eurocarparts or similar you may not get the temperature sender included so will have to swap out of the old one. The saving over a genuine part is very small.

The normal temp should be just over 90C.
 

gizze

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And Mercedes will have the latest 91°c part, many others are the older 88°c specification.
 

oigle

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Hi
Yes I cut the transducer wires 2" from the ecu plug.

I did my first motorway journey this morning since buying the car (and since doing the shunt yesterday) and found I did around 16 miles, mostly motorway, before the temperature gauge got near 80 degrees, is this connected to the shunt?

Yes, thermostat is probably in need of replacement BUT you will find that preventing the egr gases (exhaust) from flowing through the cooler DOES slow down the warming of the motor. The cooler acts as a heat exchanger and helps to warm up the coolant more quickly. The thermostat really only controls the operating temp. Diesels are notorious for slow warming any time and you are experiencing quite cold weather.
 

johntom

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Hi
Just to clarify, the gauge did get to 90 deg, it just took quite a while - around 20 miles.
 


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