E300td W210 1998. What should I look for?

[c0r0]

So, I've finally managed to buy an E class Diesel Estate. 87,000 on the clock,Service history upto 72000. Looks like new inside, a few stone chips but generaly looking a very smart, shiney Azurite blue on the outside. They disappear like Hot cakes 'round here (within 60 miles )and I'd missed several between ringing the seller and trying to get there that evening. So this time I saw the advert in the morning booked the afternoon off and got in before anyone else. I'm pleased, the wife's even more pleased and its lovely to drive.
However........
Checking the MOT history on line, it had 115,000 in 2006 and 136,000 in 2007!
So unless there's a mistake at www.motinfo.gov.uk, its been 'clocked'. I don't intend to gripe over that coz I still love it and it doesn't look or feel that used. In fact its worlds apart from my 1998 137K Mondeo. (Don't knock my Mondeo, its served me well from new !)
But, are there any legal implications on me as the new owner of a 'clocked' car, and more importantly what do I need to look for in a 140K+ mileage car. Any thoughts and advice greatly appreciated, The registration docs match the serial and engine numbers. (Any body else found out theirs was clocked and stupid enough to admit it !?)

 

[Parrot of Doom]

1. Rust

Tops of doors (under the seals), wheel arches, engine crossmember (you have to get underneath and remove the plastic noise trays, underneath the radiator, boot lock, front spring perches

2. Front suspension

Loose ARB links (very cheap easy fix) is heard/felt as a knocking sound over light bumps

3. Fuel leaks

Generally easy to fix, all around the injection pump and lines. Can make car difficult to start in the morning.

4. Gearbox

Chances are the fluid will never have been changed. Get it done, there's a DIY on this forum if you're inclined, otherwise its about £150-£200 to have it done at an indie.

5. Viscous fan clutch

Will probably have gone, not a big deal though as there are auxiliary electric fans.

6. Water pump

Water pumps have plastic impellers and can break, but you'd have to be unlucky for this to happen.

7. Belt tensioner

The belt tensioner (small shocker and spring next to the oil cap) can go, and make rattling noises. Its a cheap fix, they're only £10-£15.


Not sure what you mean about the mileage though. They run to high mileages, mine is at 200,000 and sweet, other people have had them at 450,000 and still running ok. The engines are very solid, just change the oil and use fully synthetic and they go forever.

Also, beware that the spare wheel must use short wheel bolts - you cannot use alloy wheel bolts on the spare wheel, they are the wrong length and you may end up damaging the parking brake mechanism.

 

[c0r0]

Thanks for that, looks like the ATF change will be first on the list. I've found the short bolts in the toolkit, I wondered what they were for ! No significant rust on top, I'll check underneath if I can get it on some ramps. Mileage thing was that its odometer currently says 87000 but last years MOT says 136000.
Its good to hear that yours is still going strong at 200K

Colin

 

[shayes]

1. Rust


7. Belt tensioner

The belt tensioner (small shocker and spring next to the oil cap) can go, and make rattling noises. Its a cheap fix, they're only £10-£15.

.

Would this be what is normally needed for a W124 with a loose poly V belt?
Is it the Shock absorber and spring that normally fail, and not necessarily the pivoted part? Presumeably best to buy all three parts if replacing?

 

[Parrot of Doom]

If yours is loose it could be any number of things, its the spring that does most of the tensioning and I can't see it going slack much.